Roys

Wago’s sized for the 6mm will work well, presume the cable will be properly glanded and banjoed / piranha nutted to ensure that the armour is earthed and continuous between the cables.

That was quick delivery by Royal Mail, looking forward to see how it performs in a battery strimmer.

@Onoff posted a new blade off to you by Royal Mail so hopefully you will get it by the end of the month? It should go well with the completely refurbished brush cutter.

No probs, will get that posted to you tomorrow.

The bore is 25.4mm and the diameter is 255mm on the Echo blade.

Don’t do it, the slightest off balance will wreck your body, and you won’t notice until next day when you wake up in pain. Cover the postage and I will send you a spare brand new blade that I have for free.

PS I have four angle grinders, so I don’t have to keep swopping discs, couple of the grinders were very cheap, and it saves so much hassle. Be careful with them, wear safety specs and keep guard on, I have opened up my leg with a metal cutting disc as it got nipped and kicked back, I have used angle grinders for many years so it can happen to even the experienced.

I use four main types of discs. Thin discs with metal written on them for cutting metal. Fat discs with metal write on them for grinding metal. Diamond disc for cutting stone brick etc, zipped through a couple bits of plastic with it but not as a rule. Fat discs with stone marked on them (as in your pic I think) mostly for finishing edges on stone brick slate etc. For plastic pipe I tend to put in my chop saw, or I hacksaw or I use the plastic pipe shears.

In summary, the plug is knackered, cut it off and change it. The socket has signs of heat damage from the plug, and is cracked, the overheating may have been a factor in it cracking it could also been a slightly misaligned pinned plug being persuaded into the socket. Doesn’t really matter the socket needs changed as well. When you change the plug and socket don’t fit cheapoes. I always used to fit MK, hundreds of them, but the quality is not what they used to be. I tend to fit Hager or Click now, probably only very slightly more expensive than cheapoes but they are better.

Coincidence I think

I rewired a couple of years. CAT5e to every room, use 3 of them, one in the box room for the computer, and one to each of the virgin cable boxes. I also have one hard wired phone downstairs and one upstairs, as they will still work in a powercut. The cordless ones won’t and the mobiles don’t pick reception in the house unless they connect to the WiFi.

Yip, when you stop using it and so no more flowing through the nozzle, it will go rock hard in the nozzle in say about 5 to 20 mins depending on ambient, so as said above drill and clean all the holes first. You usually get a couple of nozzles when you by a tube. I used a tube yesterday that I had last used two weeks ago removed the old nozzle, fitted a new nozzle and away it went no probs. Note, the mixing occurs in the nozzle, there is a spiral plastic form inside the nozzle that mixes the 2 part resin from the tube, so it doesn’t go off in the tube. The stuff in the tube will be knackered after a while but as I said I just reused one I opened a couple of weeks ago.

I use a fair bit of resin, usually just buying the cheapest. I have the resin gun which is a bit wider and heavier duty than a standard skeleton (silicone) gun. If you don’t have a resin gun make sure the tube of resin you buy fits a normal skeleton gun. Also make sure the drilled hole has been dusted out, either by a resin bicycle type pump to blow the dust out of by a vacuum cleaner with a bit of 6mm tube botched on to the end of the hose with duct tape, and when you start to use it the first 3 or 4 inches of resin is not used as it won’t be mixed, there is a distinct colour change when the mixed stuff comes out. For 6mm screwed rod I would be drilling a 7 to 8mm hole. Fantastic stuff.

Re PVA, if I have some on the go I would put a little on, I have done it with and without and i haven’t have issues with either, I tend to fill with One Strike now for small defects caused by nail and screw holes. Sorry I can’t answer your paint questions with any confidence as I am a spark.? Looks like you have gone a bit more the 40mm either side of the nail, it might be a trick of the camera but are you sure that is 40mm or have you gone 40cm? Not that it’s a big deal.

Whenever I have repaired blown nail bumps in plasterboard I put a plasterboard screw in either side of the nail, about 40 mm away from it, then knock of the blown plaster and give the nail a wee hit with a nail punch and hammer to reset it.

Keep the coil of SWA in the house next to a radiator for 24hours before you try to use it, cold SWA is horrible to work with warm SWA is a dream.

We have Roofus who is a small heavy dog door stop, think he came from Next, looks good and is effective.

And again fair play to the bloke he put in the graft and his heart and soul into it. I would have struggled with the lack of head room on that top floor. When I was looking for a project 15 years ago I rejected quite a few buildings due to the lack of headroom. My wife used to come out saying “that was a good one” I would go “nope” usually with a big bump on my head. I am 6ft2 my wife is 5ft.

I have just watched the latest episode as well, I liked the house. Not sure if it will work out heating wise as good as his wife would have hoped but fair play to the bloke for a having an idea and sticking to it. I would have put my money into the more proven route of solar energy.

Nobody know the best way to fasten newel post to first tread?

Renovating my full house, doing the hall just know. The house was built in 1962, it had a Parana Pine staircase which had a ranch style banister with 45x90mm posts half lap jointed onto stringer with just a plank top and middle, you know what I mean. So stairs sanded back with old spilt paint and old horrible dark yellow varnish sanded away back to the bear wood and a satin floor varnish applied, I think it looks good even if I say so myself. Next stage in the plan is to create a newel post top and bottom with a stainless steel bannister with glass, screwing the glass clamps straight onto the stringer. What I have done is join two of the 45x90 posts together by biscuit jointing and glueing then put it through the planer thicknesses to tidy it up. This has created 2 off 87x87mm posts. My question is the attachment of these posts, the top post I chopped out a slot and fitted it over the stringer, is it just a case of putting 4 off 5x80mm stainless screws through it to secure. The bottom post I need to fit onto the first tread, so do I just repeat the same process as the top post and screw through both legs of the post and stringer? Stringer is 45mm. I need to attach to first tread to bring bannister length down to below 4000mm which is as long as I can get the bannister. cheers gents for looking.

I have a Hive thermostat in my house. I was in Lidl today and noticed they were selling Smart lamps that used Zigbee so thought it was a £9.99 chance and bought one as I thought Hive used Zigbee as well. Got home and tried to pair the lamp to my Hive system using my Phone App, couldn’t get it to see it. Anybody else tried this, am I being stupid and doing something wrong, or is it just not compatible? Cheers

Does this mean that your export occurs when your hot water is up to temperature and there is nowhere else to dump it except the grid.

Dave I presume you are using a solar diverter, how much are you finding that your solar diverter does not divert? Are you still using a 110V tranny to feed an immersion heater?