JohnMo

The more surface area your heat exchanger has, the closer the approach temperature is (basically the difference between input and output temperature). Not done the maths, but 20 plate say 6 degs, and 30, 3 degs approach or a similar ratio, so 4 compared 2 etc. SWEP have an online calculator where you can put in all the figures and actually check. If I did it I would use the heat exchanger I have, which a large 40 plate (11m²).

No To change over from heat to cool varies between makes and models. Some ASHP do not do cooling, so you need to cross reference your model number, to see if it does. Some manufacturers want to sell more kit to allow cooling others don't. But you normally need a zero volt trigger to make the switch, I currently use an old single pole light switch, repurposed. Actual cooling. Radiators do not work in cooling mode. UFH does. You would generally operate at a temperature above dew point, which is generally above 12.5 degs. If your heat pump runs long compressor cycles better to run closer to 16 Deg flow temp. Running at 16 you don't need any insulation.

They are shaped strips welded to the EPDM. The EPDM is mechanical fixed to roof, and an overlap formed the lap joint is seam welded. The decor strips are then welded in place with spacing to cover all seams.

End of 2020 it £14k including materials and installation for 194m² area. You please with it.

Our roofs are a similar size in EPDM. All seams welded and standing seams with roof lights on upstands. Sarnafil EPDM. Ours is on a 12 Deg slope.

Isn't when it went out of fashion? Unless a period property, why? Think most builders installed to make corner details easy and quick, takeaway the coving you find a bodge. Use the correct materials and corner mitre guide its pretty easy.

Depends on the plumber I suspect

I would be taking a semi circle or horse shoe shape to where the screed is cut around the pipe. Then you need a bag of self levelling compound or sand and cement mix to refill.

Even more reason to steer clear of so called kit houses and big deposits. Unfortunate for the employees, that have just found out, they have no job.

A gas certified installer - he will need to purge then will then cap as required.

Do decking instead?

I just fitted a EPH Digital Cylinder Thermostat (EDBS), you can program to do a legionaries cycle time and temperature and it also a wide range of hysterisis adjustment (reason I bought it). Pretty much the same as a heat pump, your boiler likes cooler return temps to get best performance. Plus your standing losses decrease. Fine line between efficiency, cost and having to answer the question - why have we run out of hot water? I have moved from heating twice a day, almost need it or not, due the old thermostat being a rubbish design. To setting a hysterisis of +0 -10 degs and heating mostly once, occasionally twice, odd day not at all. Best solution 20-30 plate PHE, bronze pump, bypass existing small coil, tap into cold inlet and hot outlet, set flow temp to about 60-70, thermostat to around 50 wife runs bath, boiler fires up you almost have a endless water, she switches off tap, cylinder is recharged.

Got a list of jobs to do. Branches fallen from trees, to sort. Shed roof panel started rattling about. On house a roof trim panel came off, really difficult to get to now, 6m up, with another 8m drop under that. Plus cleared a tree blown down across the road this afternoon. Good job I took down the sail awning yesterday, that would have taken off.

Isn't that the point you use a generator fit for purpose, heat pump on, oven or hob on for cooking you tea, lights as normal and watch the TV, live life as normal - main on or off.

Prior to battery house was run direct from Hyundai 9.6kVa generator, including the heat pump. But heat pump is 6kW, starting requirements are not that hard. Our battery inverter is 6kW and that has no issues either.

Would think ceiling mounted IR heating is nothing really different to UFH. UFH you can run cooler room temperature than small radiator systems and it's not about heating the body, but slowing down the heat loss from the body, so a perceived heating i.e. your not getting colder. In that it heats the building fabric and the temperature difference. A low temperature UFH has a surface temperature 1 to 3 degs warmer than room, so to 21 to 24. Which obviously enough to keep you from cooling down. When you dig into Passivhaus and reasons for different rules they are all geared around not feeling cold, 0.6 U value for windows is to do with sitting next to window and the surface of the glass not being x degs lower than room temp when its cold outside. So you feel the perception of cold and the heat being drawn to quickly from the body. IR heating is just the same but at full price electric. Removing heat pumps because they are expensive to run and replacing with IR is mad. Either a piss poor install, rubbish operation or a combination of both. Better money would be spent fixing the issues, possibly locking or removing all the controls.

That's what I always thought, but now started heating dinner plates in the microwave - 3 mins and 2 large plates and piping hot. Nothing in the microwave other than the plates. The other one is microwave heats from the inside out, which again is rubbish.

Can you not mount in the sink?

So why do you get any solar gain, yes if it's Australia but not here. Just totted up our glazing all south west facing and it 52m² plus some east and west and we cope with a 6kW heat pump, internal blinds and purge ventilation when required. Generally it's still well oversized even on the extreme days. Sorry to be blunt, your spreadsheet is rubbish in rubbish out, your heat pump is well oversized, and you need to step back and think again.

Our ASHP has an open space in front. Early in the year tidings things up, I extended a fence about 1m in front of heat pump, fence was mostly open, but it caused enough recycling of airflow to promote frosting very frequently from about 5 degs outside and down. Removed after a couple of cold days and everything returned to normal.

Yep. Your solution should look like 1. ASHP sized for heat demand at approx -3. Between £2.5 and stupid money. A good Panasonic is nearer £2.5k 2. A 3 port diverter valve, generally come with cylinder. 3. A heat pump specific cylinder the bigger the heat transfer coil the better the CoP you get while heating the cylinder. Circa £1k depending on size. 4. Ideally UFH on a single zone, so need for mixer, pump or actuators on manifold. Or a conventional radiator system sized to run at a low a temperature possible. Options - should come free with the correct heap pump. Cooling, UFH will take the extreme over temperature away, and reduce recovery time dramatically, coupled with PV costs nothing to run. Radiators don't do cooling. If UFH and they insist on buffers or volumiser find a new installer. If you are reasonably well insulated and decent airtightness a 6kW heat pump should be fine for around 300m² house. Anything bigger start digging to find out why.

Really almost no impact on efficiency if sited away from house, within reason. 5 to 10m is fine, over that needs some thinking about. The ASHP will not be 'in' a plant room it will be outside, always. Noise is down to assessment by your installer, he will approve it not location based on an assessment. Distance from house wall will add cost as you will need to trench in insulated pipes. I would really look at the cost premium you pay for an MCS install and assess if it's actually worth it. Also look at MCS umbrella schemes.

Internal heat gains at nearly 3kW seem excessive, 8kW heat gain through doors? Not sure what that is, as there are no calculations? It all seems huge, zero credit taken for any shading, internal or external, how have you passed building regs if its that bad?

114m as you need to pick up keys and then walk to car again. Plus the other 57m wasted. No need for the gym

Can you post the spreadsheet as it's coming out as a jumble of numbers