JohnMo

Not the same as a radiator calculation wise. You just need to read the datasheets. Generally they are designed to run sensibly flow temps and the datasheet will give a range of flow temps in cooling and heating and output at different fan speeds. In cooling my fan coil fan will only run when water sensor sees 13.5 degs and lower (ASHP compressor is actually on) AND room temp is above set point. Fan speed then changes automatically based on how much work the fan coil has to do.

Most decent fan coil will have adjustable setting for fan activation temp with different setting for cooling or heating. They are really rated in a given flow temperature. dT is depending on work done and fan speed. If you start flowing water below about 12 the air being drawn in by the fan is at dew point, so cannot absorb any more water, so water just stays water. Fan coils rated for cooling have a condensation tray to catch this water

A battery in the shed, connection to house, drive ASHP or A2A in shed plus tools. 15kWh battery plus interconnection cable £6k(ish), charge on octopus cosy - three cheap rates plus normal rate most other times. Allow battery to back feed house when not needed in shed. GivEnergy AIO has a 6kW inverter for charging and output loads. Anything above 6kW gets taken from grid.

The normal switch off sequence. Downstream of inverter or charge controller, you switch of the load path via a dedicated isolator switch. Then once isolated you switch off the PV panels via a second isolator switch. The isolation switches are suitably rated DC switches for the PV and again suitable rated for the inverter or charge controller (depending on if AC or DC). This way nothing goes bang including yourself. Reconnection is the opposite, you start at the PV and work towards the load. I really would just separate existing and new, way less complex, way more safe.

Would be careful doing that, you normally switch source off last, otherwise you be getting big sparks occurring on disconnecting or damaging the charge controller, or yourself.

Buying Panels - City Plumbing are in most areas and super cheap for panels. You have a van so could you collect? But most electrical wholesaler sell panels now. So are the additional panels just going to be free standing when parked up? Need the full story really

Why are you faffing about with a 300W string? Just bin it and buy new panels - 500W panel is only £67. Your issue adding to the other panels, is the big panels may only output the same as the old string unless on a separate mttp. Plus to keep everything happy you will likely need to add optimisers, which cost the same as the new panels.

Do you really need a nail gun for a 2m² shed. I used a a DeWalt air driven nail gun (needs a compressor) built house, external cladding, decking and couple of sheds. Uses standard nail gun nail.

Two coats gives you airtight out the box. Dot and dab, same if you apply the adhesive correctly and form a full perimeter of adhesive. Otherwise you get air leaky walls

I was born there

I was considering just for the learning - not a career change

Do the course be one yourself

So did I, that was 20+ years ago. Interesting the facts then, are the facts now. But people still don't want to or will not get it. Politics doesn't want to know, if one side or the other gets them votes or money in the election fund box, that's the side they ultimately fall towards. Doesn't really matter what correct so long as they have some power.

Why, I am pretty much 100m from house to garage have cable installed in there big enough to run most things. Small digger - trench - drop in armoured cable, back fill. 1 days work. Or even easier surface run armoured cable or clip to fence or wall. £1k buys a lot of cable you only need 16mm² to do 100m at 10kW. I just put in 25mm² so can do most things with little or no volt drop.

That is generally a fact, and one of the reasons you get a bunch of tax payers money thrown at you. It's just a pity the installer thinks that money is mostly for them. So homeowners still get a huge bill. Most ASHP are for the rich with disposable income, or people that aren't scared to shop around and do it yourself. A move from fossil fuels to ASHP, could be achieved in a step by step process. Run boiler at heat pump temperatures, figure out which room needs bigger rads, most will or may not need changing when running low and slow. Change out in slow process, much the same as @marshian. Cylinder fitting one with a big coil makes reheats well quick, from fossil fuels boiler so a no brainer really. Let boiler get to end of useful life seamlessly change heat source. Who needs a grant?

I didn't spend 10's of thousands all together. ASHP, PV, and battery all in, was about £10k. DIY and careful shopping is the way to go. First 3kW array was part of the new build, so there anyway. Boilers don't do cooling, ASHP are a two trick pony, they do heat and cooling. Boiler had to go it couldn't pay it way. PV and battery were always going to happen, they just feed into an ASHP very well. Battery can be justified by the number of power cuts we get and that our water is pumped from a borehole. Everything ties in nicely. We no longer get blackouts, bills have come down 50% in real terms.

That will take some working out, but I invested for different reasons to most. ASHP because I wanted/needed cooling, so that capital cost wasn't for actual savings, but as result of that purchase they occured anyway. Set heat pump to run on its own for heat and cool and then added the nearly boiler apart if the new build) as a hybrid, but gas was a drain in money terms because of the standing charges. Cost as much for standing charges as the gas did. Most the year ASHP did heating and cooling, only cold days gas ran. PV to bring down monthly outgoings and help to a A EPC. Added battery to allow me make better use of cheap electric tariffs. Again to bring down monthly outgoings.

I think you should stop that, it will never go well. The ? isn't really that high, if I recall correctly, about 30mm - 40mm

No its all costed, ASHP as retro fit. Heat Pump including cylinder and aux stuff was about £3k (careful shopper). Spend about the same on PV (some new others second hand, but basically new). Battery was quite a bit more expensive, but has a pay back of about 5 years excluding export (which I now have, so should be way shorter). I never expect to pay more than 13p (excluding inflation) per kWh even when -9 outsade and ASHP has to earn its keep, so half normal price, with PV contribution.

I started with a Hyundai 7.9kW generator, big enough to cook my tea, have lights, heating and TV on. £800

You could expand the question and ask if they had a gas or electric boiler and still get the same blank expression. Most people just don't care, it's not even on a radar, let alone something to think about. If it's warm enough job done. If it isn't call the plumber, he'll fix it. Until I built my house heating was something that just happened, I didn't care, gas was cheap, I was earning, so the heating got left on 365 days a year, in chilly Scotland.

Sorry to much of a sweeping statement, for some properties it maybe, but with solar and battery heat pump wins all the time, my current average cost of electricity is 3p per kWh, average over the year about 10p maybe less, without including export credits. Get a scop of 3 that's 3.3p per kWh, get a SCoP of 4 that's down to 2.5p per kWh.

Been back on ChatGPT, and explored the shite in shite out aspects of AI, asking some basic questions, after a couple of further questions it has spat out a different answer. Its now saying.Quite like chatting with AI, but you do go rubbish rabbit holes. 04:00–07:00: charge to 95% SoC (≈ 12.7 kWh) Covers the 07:00→13:00 gap on your coldest days without touching 25.79p. 13:00–16:00: charge to 95% SoC (≈ 12.7 kWh) Covers the 16:00→22:00 gap (including the 39p peak 16–19). 22:00–00:00: charge to 56% SoC (≈ 7.5 kWh) Bridges 00:00→04:00 comfortably. The above basically covers my worse day without solar. So my take on that is after @sharpener valid question, what's the point of charging to 95% you may as well just charge to 100% each slot and forget about it. Have now set the charge automation in GivEnergy Control to work with the Octopus API and automate the charging. Will charge to 100% and then export as its generated. See how that goes.

Think it's saying don't bother paying to import then getting hit by DC to AC inefficiencies to get export and effectively get the same real value exporting as importing. The cost difference is so small, just import the minimum you can. If after that if you have real excess, let that export. On poor solar day and we get plenty, the battery may only partly charge. Today battery has just hit 92% (16:45). Will maybe get a few extra percent or get to 100% and export a little. So far today the battery topped up to 50% early morning, and house took grid supply in during charge period - used 3.2kWh. Have consumed around 10kWh. Generated around 8.5kWh. Have exported 0.01kWh just via stuff slipping by. Just under one full charge today. So the question is how much electricity would I have added to battery to keep at 100%, would the system have drawn in grid during the charge periods? Assume it would still be one charge and PV driving house and exporting? I also like the idea of buying as little energy as I can. But trying different things to see what works. Certainly just charging to 100% is a fit and forget option.

When I first signed up they had all those details on the website, believe they are based in Wales Asked AI UK-based Wonder Watt (the smart charging app) The company appears to operate as a small startup based in South Wales, founded by an experienced software developer (Wim) and a solar systems engineer (James) deegesolar.co.uk . There's no publicly available corporate or company registration details (e.g., Companies House number or legal address) associated with the UK version of Wonder Watt. On Trustpilot, they list a UK contact email: labs@wonderwatt.com , and confirm being a “Software Company” based in the United Kingdom Trustpilot Trustpilot . Conclusion: It’s likely a UK-based private entity, but it does not publicly disclose a registered company address or name on its website or Trustpilot profile.