JohnMo

MVHR cooling is pretty ineffective due to limited flow rates. Heating is limited to about 10W/m², based on passivhaus air flow rates. Anymore more heat causes any dust particles to burn. To that with an ASHP isn't cost effective due to por CoP. So in real terms post heating with ASHP and MVHR flow rates isn't really likely to achieve 10W/m² either. Best option keep your money in your pocket. We get -9 here, I haven't got any heaters in the MVHR, it's doesn't seem to suffer. Heating WC (weather compensation) curve is just set to compensate or those against WC your CH thermostat compensates automatically.

They can be mounted directly to or between the posts if you wanted. Would look tidier than on rails as well. But still need clamps of some sort - pretty cheap though. Optimisers may not be needed, my vertical panels don't have any, and don't suffer, depends how you get shade. Overall generation is slightly lower over the year, but not that much, certainly better than nothing. Just had a look at the price of composite fence panels, and PV works out about the same price. Both would be maintenance free after install. Vertical panels don't need cleaning either.

Depending on how you actually mounted them. But if you were buying fence panels anyway but instead installed PV, the PV per m² is possibly cheaper than fence panels. So buy back is an electrician (if you need one).

But then you would be doing MCS anyway and this discussion wouldn't really exist. Then you are never likely to get much payback either. Not that I could see an installer doing a fence either.

You should only be paying £60 to 70 per panel. I added 2x horizontal panels in June (in a less than ideal position) and one panel has already paid for itself.

Maybe it's a volt free contacts that does boost? And a numpty got his hands on it. What is your MVHR unit - make and model?

They are possibly also saying radiators are rubbish and don't last, also don't understand why all the black sludge is in the heating system.

If your water is inhibited not sure why you would have an issue.

As long as they are deep enough not to have a drill through them, for the bottom stud wall rail fixings. That was my concern.

I started using it a couple of years ago after a recommendation on here. Works first time every time. Says on the packet how many turns are needed for different thread sizes so super easy and no guess work. One my best purchases - makes life easy.

Last bits I bought were from City Plumbing - great prices generally and got good service.

300mm centres works fine, your delta T is going to be closer to 4 when running. But if you have balanced to rooms in Loopcad, all you need to do is set all the flow meters on the manifold fully open and let the heat pump get on with settings flow rates. Coupled with thick screed don't expect the reaction times to be quick, it's a very slow and steady system. You may find you actually don't need the UFH upstairs except for bathrooms, unless you like bedrooms really hot. Bathrooms, I did those at 300mm centres, but a bathroom cannot be too hot, most of the floor space is taken up with showers, toilet etc, so reduce spacing to 150mm. Can you not get rid of the dedicated hall loops downstairs? Generally reduce the number of loops? Not a fan of going under internal walls. Can you reduce the manifolds to one upstairs and one downstairs? Some of you loop lengths look really short. Not sure I would want UFH in a gym? I am 192m² ground floor area and have only 7 loops, you are on 40+ and six manifolds?

With lower storage temp, depending on shower mixer make, you may have to tweek the settings at the back of face panel to get shower feeling comfortable - basically re commission the shower mixer.

Not really a fence but would function as one, has been hit several times with 80mph storms. Photo was taken on very cold day. Now getting 15p per kWh exported, for my non MCS system.

Swop dryer first. We have battery and costs for electricity has dropped lots, as it allows to be all cheap rate 24/7. You need to do the maths for your circumstances, only you can tell if it's worth it.

I've had good service from duct store

But a good one👍

So what is feeding the small air? Where is the fresh air coming from?

For me I would do another house tomorrow, not sure the wife would let me. I really enjoyed the whole process. But I compartmentalise stuff and once it's done, I just move on the next thing.

But did you have a comment to make on glycol? Sorry but to answer your comments. What complexity I am just using the default settings for the ASHP. There are no apps, they are not needed and add nothing, it doesn't need updating and fiddling with. It just sits there and gets on with it. There are no fancy valves, only a 3 port diverter for DHW heating. In fact the system only consists of ASHP (with it's controller in the side of the ASHP), diverter valve, cylinder and UFH manifold. No additional pumps (other than one in ASHP) no mixers, no UFH manifold actuators, no fancy stuff at all. But using an ASHP, so an advantage in running cost with variable flow temperature. Thermal stability of the house and reaction time of the UFH are pretty closely matched when running variable flow temperature. But can quite easily make the system work at a set flow temp and a thermostat, but house temp fluctuates more, due to the heat pump having to play catch up, to heat 19.2m³ of concrete. With WC flow temp changes preempts how the house will respond, all very simple, nothing complicated, it actually allows a much simpler system. Yes I live in Scotland, not many places get the -20 anymore, still get variable seasons in 24hrs.

Your heat pump circulation pump will come at 3 or 4 degrees like it not to perform frost protection to look after itself. The only freeze protection needed is from a prolonged (several days with no electricity and sub zero). Oil boilers themselves never have (almost all) never run with glycol or anti freeze valves.

As above just don't do it. It's not needed, makes your pump run harder than it needs to and heat transfer isn't as good. Just do inhibited water. I haven't even bothered with anti freeze valves. We just run weather compensation so everything is always active. So as you don't live anywhere that gets several day long power cuts and it's stays well below zero at the same time nothing much is going to happen.

Best thing is take your time. Get your plans right first. Even if you need to go back to planning to make changes. Step back, write down what you want and what you don't. Look at the following aspects Foundation level how are you going to do it Walls many different ways to build so get that sorted in your head before you go too far. Roof are you having vaulted ceiling, this changes how the roof is built. Insulation and airtightness, this then helps you decide on ventilation and heating system. Layout of house, it's very easy to make a massive house, if you are not careful. Use you current house, what is good and bad, what are room sizes like, ok, too big or small etc. how does the layout work or not? Write stuff down, revisit what you write down, is it still true. Once you know what you are doing don't change.

No reason at all, but are you just making things complicated?

I like using ChatGTP but you have to integrate if that is really the best solution, and at the end, ask if it's the simplest solution, most often it isn't. It's fine for having a conversation and bouncing ideas about, but easily goes of on tangents and can get numbers very wrong and therefore give a wrong solution. Test and test again. When you have a solution that looks ok. Post that solution in a new conversation and ask if it's the best solution to do xyz. You may get a completely different answer. It needs to know lots of details, to get a good solution.