JohnMo

Isn't that one of the reasons for buffers, to make up for the short fall in modulation. Why would you need your heating on at 16 degs outside? Also MCS certification manual say to the heat pump is to meet the duty of an outside temp for 99.6% of the year. So the worst 5 days can be ignored for sizing. Which leads to a smaller unit being specified. And helps with modulation range etc.

I just risked it and didn't bother with insurance. Had a wheel barrow and couple of shovels kicked, and the excess wouldn't of covered those anyway. Most stuff of value was either kept off site until needed or within a locked and out of sight loft section.

I would really look at the cost benifit v cost. dMEV fans may be a much better option, worth looking at.

You could also directly charge the thermal store from the heat pump or go via a plate heat exchanger. If you used a plate DHW exchanger, you may get better heat exchange and able to use full contents of TS or part charge it in low use situation. Advantage is no possibility of short cycling during heating as this would be fed direct from from thermal store.

Look at whole window U value, not at the headline you get triple glazing. Have seen triple glazed advertised as 1.4, because the frames are cr*p. Insist on getting the whole window U value, they will want to give you the Ug valve which is only the glazed part of it. We have some double glazed doors and the whole U value, frames and glazing is 1.1, but they are Krypton filled. Our triple glazed are 0.74 and 0.82. A normal ok/good quality double glazed window is 1.4, triple glazed less than 1.0 for the whole window U value.

I have the same roof lights as above, but replaced the upstand shown with, Compacfoam CF200, from Green Building Store.

Got the manual for the non inverter one, it can go up to 55 and has no phone App. But all the limitations are the same. Single temperature, no external call for heat etc. Does seem to have a timer and cooling pre configured.

But obviously you don't move in until complete.

A normal one should go down to 27. The other way to do it is set your flow temp at the boiler and just use the blending valve as a safety device. That works as long as you don't have radiators at a different temperature.

What ever route you go down, with a low energy house, realise things don't work the same with heating as a 'normal' house. You can operate the whole ground floor as a single zone, without lots of thermostats. I have gas boiler capable of weather compensation, but it just doesn't cope with slow house temperature change and slow change in temperature of the 100mm thick slab. I now just batch charge overnight for around 6 hours. If I wanted to do it quicker you would just increase the temperature. If you have underfloor heating in a thick slab, you can charge it up over a period of hours, then switch it off for 16 to 18 hours and your house will stay roughly the same temperature. So if you have an ASHP, you could do the house heating overnight on cheaper electric. The CoP will not be as good (due lower overnight temperature), but you are paying lots less for the electric. So you are paying gas prices and need less than a third of it compared to gas boiler. Or do as some use a Willis heater, for £60 each, always has a CoP of 1, use on cheap rate electric, same cost as gas, use an immersion or heat pump/cylinder combination for DHW.

I have gone through the online question bit. No answer so far, not paying them to get basic info.

Slip rings? Same as cranes and your car steering wheel.

I asked the same question through eBay about a 3kW unit. They said eBay didn't allow them to send the info. My question to them "Hi do you have a data sheet for 3 and 5kW heat ops please. " Their reply "We do have the heat pump user manual which has all the information but ebay won't let us send it to you, they say it's against their rules and policies.. Thank you.":

Have you looked at rust effect paint - paint effect used on cars to make them look rusty, when they are not.

The corrosion of mild steel and Corten are very different. Mild steel corrosion is alway porous and will continue to corrode until there is nothing left. The surface corrosion will flake and dust off over time. Corten is a form stainless steel, the corrosion when formed becomes a non porous continuous surface which protects the core material from further corrosion. The corrosion should firmly affix to the core material. The trouble with any coating it will give a sheen that the non coated material does not have.

Noticed dream heat pumps are doing inverter ones now.

Change the locks, or send them to the grand parents.

Bleach, we have been using sparingly, but leave in the toilet bowl for as long as possible. That way the bleach has lost most of its effectiveness, by the time you flush. Now bought Eecover toilet cleaner, not used it yet.

Not sure there is a quite kitchen extractor, in recirculation or outside venting. Something that shifts between 250 and 800m3/h of air will not be quite when you are stiff besides it. You should never need a speed above the first setting, I would only use it if you are frying. Steam will go in and basically come right back out and be taken away by the MVHR. Being negative, I doubt you will have much success with attenuators.

Do you have lots of tcv/thermostat valves in the system? Zone 1 temp reduced, flow stops. If there are tcv in zone 2 closed also, you then stop the flow back to the boiler and the boiler has nothing to work with, so switches on off. Thoughts?

The further from the hob the less effective the extractor is. So to be effective you would require to run at a higher speed. We had no extractor for about 2 months, we just put the MVHR on boost, all great. We now have an extractor which only really gets used if we are frying, to remove any grease from air. Bit a of a waste of money, but fits in with the kitchen design. Based on what you want to do, But make sure you put a filter in it or better still one with a removable/cleanable grease element.

Or a nuclear winter

So is zone 1 radiators? What flow temp Zone 2 is that UFH? what flow temp? When you say short cycle, how long does it run for? A more detailed drawing may help that shows what you have and the flow temperatures

I've been monitoring our gas consumption and it remarkable how the gas consumption has decreased since moving in last September. When we first put the heating on we used loads of gas almost double for the same weather conditions, compared with a couple of weeks ago. Some of the decrease is refining the way the heating system is controlled, I suspected part drying out and part getting the building up to temperature, but also part think what I have done wrong. Our average from October to now for an exposed (NE Scotland) site is 6.8 W/m2 for heating excluding DHW.

Bunch of calculations here for working out the potential. https://www.renewablesfirst.co.uk/hydropower/hydropower-learning-centre/how-much-power-could-i-generate-from-a-hydro-turbine/ This link tells you to determine the head available, which from looks of will be quite low. https://www.renewablesfirst.co.uk/hydropower/hydropower-learning-centre/what-is-head/ But a system that generates a few hundred watts, will cover the house base load all year.