JohnMo

I tend to think it's easier, from the stand point if anything goes wrong (insurance) and proving it has been installed correctly to BC. A registered installer can sign off and certificate, they can also argue the case for you, to BC, if they install per manufacturers instructions, instead of building standards; which tend to be completely different.

We have pine trees all around our get full of needles, real pain in ...

In the grand scheme of things, the aerogel adds can very little, compared to just using 60mm PIR.

All depends on the roof area. Deep flow for bigger areas

You mostly pay for labour. 'I don't want my build to appear that i have gone for the cheap(er) man made option" Then use the real thing.

I must agree with you, hence my first suggestion of dMEV. Very little running cost, good ventilation, as long as you have good cross flow. For way less cost than MVHR, you have condition based dMEV. Some light reading attached. Atamate_SDAR+Paper+2019+(1).pdf

As much heat (or more) will go downwards as up. Would not be very effective and cost huge amounts to run. I would save your money to spend on something else.

If that's the case not really understanding why Wunda would ask to set the flow rate at 2.5 before calibration, that makes no sense. As flow meter are to be fully opened at all times. I found if there a delay to the pump starting (which is pretty standard in UFH control centres), from powering up the actuator then calibration never seems to be right. You may have to frig the the pump temporarily to be running prior to doing a recalibration. I also found it a pain to get them running right.

What are you recalibrating? Are you using Salus self actuating actuators?

Go on one the PV calculation websites, alter the angle and look at yield at different time of year. Will make a difference, how many percent - nor sure

Amazing how fashions change. 20 years ago you pay to get rid of a wooden ceiling,. If fact I did.

Because you see pics everywhere doesn't mean they comply with regs of the country you live in. If architect is warning off there will be reasons.

No previous real experience except DIY New build. I did Insulation in floor, UFH pipes, all plumbing Install bathrooms MVHR Install solar panels, except electrical built internal and external walls. Internal sound proofing Parge coat walls Battened out ceiling and walls roof vcl Airtightness detailing External cladding External stone slips Facia, soffit and gutters gabion baskets Levelling floor Most the wall painting, daughter did all wood work Built wood shed and water treatment shed (all from left over bits) Didn't do, roof structure or any roof covering Roof insulation (spray foam) Windows and doors Plasterboard Taping and jointing plasterboard Second fix joinery install kitchen Gas connection or piping Commission boiler Commission PV Any electrical work Water borehole, and piping filters etc External waste water piping Laying of any flooring Build garage, but did insulate.

Mine cost £300 for the electrical install. Install the panel mountings yourself. Pre run in cabling as part of first fix electrical install. When ready you and electrician install panels and connect up. Electrician completes connection of inverter, meter and isolation switches to fuse board. My installed quote for a ground mounted system with me supplying the mounting Frame was around £5500. So a couple of grand saving.

Isn't there a worry in winter with the battery. Unless you have a huge array, the battery just doesn't get charged from PV, so sits flat or charged by mains?

Sorry it is already an optimiser, ignore my comment.

I would add a freestanding DC isolation switch otherwise you cannot isolate the inverter from the panels. And upgrade TS4 to optimisers, which should increase yield if any shading or clouds passing over.

https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/439-fabric-and-ventilation-heat-loss-calculator/?tab=comments#comment-4407

Have you done a heat loss calc, using the spreadsheet on buildhub? If you do you will know what you heat losses are. You can then tell them they are wrong or right. Because you seem to be round in circles.

Pretty much. Photos of mine in the lounge. The MVHR unit is in the plant room the other side of the wall. Pipe run approx 3m, to one nozzle on the other is about 8m. Also have one in the hall, that pipe run is also 3m. The air comes down after approx 4 to 6m depending on flow rate. So is in effect the same as having the nozzle on the other side of the room.

Hi, welcome Insulation, and more insulation and remove drafts. LED bulbs, strip lights and spot lights. You may need to expand on what you currently live in, for context. Plenty of good combi boilers about. Attached is worth a read about combi boilers. Combi-SuperFlow-White-Paper-v1-2-4.pdf Canetis-SuperFlow-Product-Sheet-WE-050318.pdf

Exactly, you don't want to be there when you live in Scotland.

Can't see prices going up much, just availablity being an issue. Once they're bought, move on to the next thing don't look back. Procrastination will leave you at the end of the line

ITS Technologies. No issues purchased a full system, including all the roof integrated stuff.

If you need to do more than 3 wraps with your PTFE, your threads do not match. Check everything you have bought is compatible.