JohnMo

Welcome. Read some of the recent posts on here, there have been a couple looking at different types of building methods and the costs, @G and J posted. Kits aren't cheap, they aren't that quick either when you add the lead time to deliver into the timings. Finding plots, we found ours doing a Google search for land for sale. Found a plot being sold by purple bricks, but couldn't find directly within purple bricks website. They had stuck in a really odd place, and not many saw it and we got it below asking price. Try looking for different things you will be surprised by what turns up.

But leave it a week or two, you may get a new one.

Try Wood Kraft Moray (part of Russell Construction) - based in Elgin. They custom build the windows, everything made in house (not a cheap solution) Tel: 01343 549759

Open the windows when it's not Baltic. We have a Loch just across the road, we can here the ducks quack away. Small triple glazed may be silent big ones are not. But I can sit right next to window when it's -9 and watch the world go by, may not be so comfortable with double glazing.

It may sound easy, but that UHF will not want many kW of energy to keep it up to temperature, you are likely to short cycle the boiler to death, without a big buffer. But to be more clear with your terminology All boilers sold since the 1990s have been condensing. A system boiler has a hot water cylinder, DHW is provided by the cylinder. A combi boiler provides DHW on demand from the boiler and has no cylinder.

But even with an internal control limit set, it would still need to migrate through a vapour stop barrier. So you have zero migration of water vapour upwards into the roof structure. So the vapour barrier stops this happening. Is that even relevant with a vapour barrier?

A Hepa filter? This includes a carbon filter also https://b2belectrical.com/products/cleanbox-150-g4-f8-carbon?variant=40797880713314&currency=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwsaqzBhDdARIsAK2gqncf1OfDQMghsaO_km_0-0aifZZbTxo9h_x_3W1yWrINbFeiF5nrpTcaArplEALw_wcB

Are people over thinking things or an I missing something. You should be controlling the internal RH to 60% max, regardless of the ventilation system installed. It really doesn't matter too much what temperature you have the house at, you still control at a max of 60% RH. I just have auto boost set to 55% to keep me away from 60%. So you just plug in 60%? You keep you house at a min 16, but more likely 19 to 21 Deg.

I went ICF. It's more like a Larson strut, a structural frame (95x45) filled with insulation, then 50mm PIR glued to the structural frame, then a non structural frame 75x45,filled with insulation and a further layer of PIR. Replace outer layer of osb with cement board.

That wasn't what we did in the end, but it gives a 0.1 U value

Bonkers the difference in price, that's why I went DIY. A friend helped out, I insisted he got paid for all hours worked, so it was a job and we worked an 8 hour day Mon-Fri. He worked as a pair of hands and we bounced ideas of each other. Took about 4 weeks to build all external walls (70m x 3m).

Buying a kit of parts with manpower to erect isn't a cheap option, I fell over at the prices. Then did something different. Or better if you want. Good insulation and airtightness does have to cost, it's all about the details. I have sold 10 houses over the years and every buyer has asked, what we pay for gas and electricity, they may not know or care about the details, but running costs is a factor. You are building for yourself - no one else, don't fool yourself (unless your a full time builder) otherwise you would just buy a bog standard house. I have lived in new, old and very old houses, and nothing comes close to what we built. Looks better, feels better (MVHR and UFH) no drafts, great views etc. Do it well, otherwise you won't see the benefits, and you will sell and move on. As way of an example just looked back at our old house, its August gas bill had more kWh of gas consumption (heating was never switched off), than this house would use in Dec. This August will be standing charge only. So in today's terms and prices August alone is £75 cheaper.

I started combi, every room Thad a thermostat and my first quarter bill was a 100% more than expected. Over a couple of years got it down to one thermostat in the house and heated on a batch basis. So heated floor once a day for 4 to 7 hours, to compensate for the boiler being too big. Got the system really efficient. But doing it again X plan every time Another read IG_The-Knowledge_PDF_Final.pdf

So your doing a biggish house, a combi to supply a couple bathrooms will be quite high kW. The problem then is the boiler really ends up too big for the heating. I have had both a big combi and a hot water cylinder. If doing gas this is what I would do a system gas boiler sized as close as you can for the heating load. To do this you need to heat loss calculation. Then plumb for hot water priority, or X plan. Under no circumstances do S or Y plan, which the plumber will want to push on you. Priority hot water allows you run hot water heating and UFH at different flow temperatures and get the best efficiency from the boiler. Add to this a heat pump unvented cylinder, this has a huge 3m2 coil and give quick recovery times. A good video to watch Don't flood the house with thermostats, instead run the boiler on weather compensation. New houses have quite low heating demands and when we split the stop much the boilers just can't cope and are likely to short cycle - use loads of gas for heat given out. Good boilers are Intergas, Atag, Vaillant and Viessmann. There are others but no experience. Tell us more about your house, insulation levels air tightness ventilation etc Solar PV yes, solar thermal will disappoint. But all the above said you should really a do heat pump. Heat pump £2500, cylinder £1000, not much other costs, run the UFH direct from heat pump, 3 port valve to either cylinder or UFH.

We have a big wall fully glazed its triple glazed, it blocks out most noise, but strangely you can hear birds.

Is this 3 phase? https://www.tradesparky.com/solarsparky/accessories/miscellaneous/growatt-groboost-hot-water-diverter?affiliate=product_feed&utm_source=product_feed&utm_medium=product_feed&utm_campaign=product_feed&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwjqWzBhAqEiwAQmtgT4NybsNmb99vZxGAhTc2mgxifbz38oME_ZzdKHxk_z65l8binR9gvhoCGFYQAvD_BwE

It's been discussed before, Would be worth doing a sanity check on the maths

I don't let mine do that, it's available to heat from midday to midnight. Found that work fine. I also have a diverter to immersion. If it's sunny ASHP doesn't come on. But keep it simple, you won't be popular if you mess up. I would keep ASHP set as is, possibly change the times. You have a battery use a cheap immersion timer to switch on immersion at asset time. Or set up some logic - if PV generation is x_kWh and battery is above x% switch on immersion for 30mins, repeat (no idea how you do that but it's been mentioned before).

This video at about 12 minutes in says 5% uplift as TBOE, just the same as @SimonD - just beat me. https://youtu.be/OzSEQ77t20I?si=RX9qyHswllF3Q9cx

This post has the details on enthalpy and not enthalpy MVHR In your case perhaps enthalpy may be the way to go

But does it mean you have to? No

Or a simple mixer on the cylinder outlet, mix in return flow to out flow to produce a fixed flow temp and use a simple thermostat to start or stop circulation pump. Same as you would do for UFH.

If short on space, a small cylinder with a couple of immersion heaters a 90L is only 650mm high and £350.

But it's still a rebadged sunamp. Possibly higher price also.