JohnMo

I did look at this, and it is just a electronic version of the normal thermostat, with bells and whistles. If you bypassed it you would no longer comply with G3 as your thermostat would not function. You can control set points remotely, but not sure how you get it to function with diverter, as it is designed to be powered all the time and acts a thermostat and time switch.

This is what we did Granite slab in front of door is flat, everything else runs away from house. The 2 slab wide path, connects to parking area and has about 300mm fall.

You basically need a ramp from the parking area to the door, with a flat area Infront of door. No steps. Your ramp could go from door down to the left or right which ever easier. Just image yourself in a wheelchair, what would you want, that us basically what building regs want you have. Gentle slope, nice big flat area in fronto door. All pretty simple.

Your trouble will be a puddle and all the unhealthy stuff this breeds. Your extract is always expelling damp air, if its wet outside the incoming air could carry moisture also. Can you install a drain at the low points?

It should simply transition from heating to DHW heating, but depending on some heat pump settings, the load and noise will slowly increase as temperature increases. But even then it's not noisy. Then depending on the volume of water between the heat pump and diverter valve, and the target flow temperature, it may just transition back to heating or take some time off. Mine switches off for half hour or so.

That is bug growth. It occurs in the interface between the heating oil and water. You should have a debottoming drain on the tank, to get rid of the water. Basically at the interface an emulsion forms and the chemical added to the heating oil to stop bugs growing is depleted over time. The heating oil is generally hydroscopic so takes in water via the vent.

If the thermolite blocks are inside and the DPC goes under and up and joins the DPC they will be dry. So as drawn with the thermolite inside. Sourcing in Scotland is not easy. I got mine via Insulation Hub, only place I could find at the time, that didn't want a small fortune for shipping

I would take at you pipes and see if you are loosing heat that way. Not being insulated or thermal gradient pulling the heat away.

Not seeing any mention of DHW or solar in the thread? So a bit confused That wasn't the question I was referring too. Below is that question.

You will at best make no difference, at worst impede the flow through the ASHP. A small 5-6kW ASHP takes in 250m³/hr of air a big one 7500m³/h. You will be providing air from the MVHR slightly higher than ambient and around 1/10 of the air or way less if you have a bigger. So could make points of degrees heat increase. So in effect around 0.01 adder to CoP optimistically. You would be better off spending the time making you heat pump run as efficiently as possible.

No real changes since the inverter was used on ASHPs. Only real change that is occurring very slowly is a move from a home full of thermostats and on or off heating schedules. And a required buffer that can clobber CoP when not designed correctly - they rarely are. Best thing you can do for noise. Size the heat pump really well, so it just ticks away. Starting can be the most noisy because the frequency is always moving and there can be some clicks as valve find position. Normal running is just about silent from a metre away. Switching off and or setbacks will cause the heat pump to run at full load for an extended period as it tries to heat the property at the end of the off or setback period. So make more noise than just ticking away.

If you go on to City Plumbing site they a build your heat pump package, (based on knowing your heat loss or they have a calculation tool) so you can get an a idea of what parts are involved and the true costs. Just deselect the buffer and secondary pump.

No such thing, it's certified or not certified. Did you give drawings to builder?

Obvious things Joule high gain, isn't a heat pump cylinder, not the coil is really big enough. £5.5k for parts and fittings, should a high. They are connecting to your UFH? No survey, how do they know you need 12kW. Think 80% of all UK property is 6kW and below.

I would go it alone, no one putting bleach or other stuff to kill of the bacteria in the system blaming everyone else. Put muck munches in your system and almost never have to pump it out. Also treatment plants have a compressor that runs 24/7 so you need to meter this if you were going to split costs.

Would that take up the same room as someone's flat. I suppose they would need heating, but would have nowhere to sit.

I would Push the floor insulation to 200mm And increase the screed to 100mm in fibre reinforced concrete. Would also have UFH across the whole ground floor, on a single zone (multiple loops). Downside - Your single edge block, would need to increase in height. Then do the whole floor prior to the walls going up.

Does that actually really happen often, or just in peoples heads. I can remember in the 90s, we would feel our uninsulated dinky cylinder and if it wasn't hot, flick on the immersion and have a cup of tea then go for a shower. Expectation has moved on in people's heads, but most people's reality is a combi boiler doing around 8 to 10L/min if they are lucky in winter. Or an invented cylinder doing not much more or less.

Or just a compromise on space which could be inside or if pushed outside. Then just use an UVC. But the mini store is just a small thermal store with a big surface area coil. RED did very similar with a special design from Harlequin was just bigger, but had no G3 requirements.

No - do your own calcs, then you know what you are looking at

Just looked at the attached drawings, I have to agree. You need a lot of mitigating measures to stop your blood boiling from the solar gain (low western sun direct into all those west facing windows), let alone the night light issue.

So minimum humidity monthly average (May) was 52% then in June average starts to increases to 60%.

I would be wary of going that direction, you can get answers you don't want to hear. Curtains, automatic blinds that come down as light intensity hits xx lux. Give them what they may want to hear.

There may also be a min hertz setting, as well as the noise setting. On my ASHP it derates everything down a %.

I saw it on a heat geek video about heating DHW cylinder efficiently. They tell you most of the setting in Vaillant speak.