JohnMo

After the above, I did a little more fine tuning and ended up Restart hysterisis of 4.9 and shut off hysterisis of 2.8. this suits heating and cooling. Moved the heat pump on to cooling using a target flow temperature of 14.5 at 30 degrees to 15 at 20 degrees, so cooling now also self manages, been on continuously since July, hot day the heat pumps runs 45 mins on and about 20 mins off and a cooler weather doesn't switch on at all, been off since midnight. Costs nothing to run. If it's sunny I need cooling, so PV available.

The heat pump will almost definitely have a flow switch which is activated on a low flow condition in order to self protect. Mine (not mitsubishi) doesn't measure actual flow, I can hook up an external flow meter, if I felt the need, but if it senses min flow via the switch, it shuts down. I have an external heat meter to see what the actual flow is. Are you on glycol? Either way have you checked condition of what is being circulated? If glycol based is it turning into a soup m Looks like steady decline in flow rate, for both the high and low peaks - do you have zones switched off, or heating fluid getting more viscous?

Did a final finish on the water yesterday and today, after leaving the water to circulate for a couple weeks. Did the finish with a slip stream at 0.7L/min through the media. Let it run for about 7 hrs over two days. Final ppm is 114 Final conductivity 236 microsiemen Water looks really clear The above was completed with one fill of Ion Exchange media and it processed around 850L of water. So from brown water with glycol in it, to clear fresh water. This mine, none of the colours but looking more alkaline than acid.

If masking tape is pulling off the coating, they were badly done. I would strip the coating off and redo with a decent primer and top coat. It may be easiest to take the inlet and outlet off the MVHR unit and bag and tape the ends there.

My Durisol ICF finished walls ready for stone slips came in around £12k fully DIY (built in 2020 during COVID). Inside parge coated ready for battens, external ready for battens for wood facing and other walls ready for stone slips. 70m perimeter, wall heights from 2.5m to over 3.6m. No outer skin required, everything direct to ICF. U value 0.14 out the box. Costs breakdown is here https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/19042-takes-less-time-but-is-more-expensive/

Mine is loose while bleeding the system, then I tightened. Then for the next month or so, i released every so often to let any caught air escape, afterwards re tightened.

No

LED downlights come with a transformer that requires just about 50mm gap. So you need to form 50mm service gap. LED lights need plenty of cooling otherwise they fail quite quickly otherwise, so insulated plasterboard may not be a good solution. Once built how are you going to maintain the lights without scaffolding? We moved away from ceiling lights in our lounge (45 Deg ceilings) because they would be so high, you could not get at them easily. Plus they are so far you you they are cr*p. Instead we did combined up and down lights on the wall. But we generally just use side lights only now.

He is possibly burying his head, not really knowing what to do. I would be seeking legal guidance, to block you. You would not be allowed to enter or touch my property. Which include touching my wall you want to build on.

You should design it, ideally with a structural engineer input.

How big is it? What's going in there? Have you planned it out?

And have a garage on your plan, otherwise you can't get it VAT free.

No point starting the journey if you want a house, but can only afford to build a shed. You must have an idea of what you need at the end of the journey? Otherwise you wouldn't even be looking to go this direction. Going underground, even on slope can become a money pit quite quickly - limited funds you need to reduce risk, not increase it. We are a hill and spent £50k before we got out the ground, that is cheap. We spent another £70k landscaping and retaining slope. That's all before we started building. If you think you need 250m², you in reality possible only need 200m² or less. 200m² is big roomy house, 3 double bedrooms with ensuite s, big lounge and kitchen. As mentioned big rooms are difficult and if done poorly look rubbish. Use where you live now, as a yard stick. Are the rooms sized well, need a bit bigger, bit smaller, need twice as big start questioning yourself.as you need a reality check.

We had a similar issue on a gas boiler, the diaphragm had a hole in it, new vessel issue went away

Low energy houses don't need thermostats in every room. When I did our house, I also had a thermostat in every room - guess what, our energy usage was twice as high as expected. Why - short cycling. If you want a thermostats in every room, live with the bills. Heat pumps and third party control equals high bills. Best bet is to let the ASHP just self control, UFH also works best this way. The other alternative is a 2-port buffer with hydraulic separation, this will need to about 70L minus the volume of you smallest zone. You need to control buffer temperature, this should be the only start stop permissive for the heat pump. The heating side thermostats control a suitable circulation pump. This setup means only the flow that has to travel though the buffer does so, not all of it, allowing flow temp to be close to what you need. But your bills will still be higher than no buffer and no zones. I would and have, got rid of all the thermostats, manifold pumps and mixer, all zone valves, buffer, volumisers etc. - certainly in a Passivhaus there is zero need - we now now have none, ASHP is well happy, the floor is self modulating and the heat pump responds well to a need to heat or cool. Cooling at the moment, if the house is hot the heat pump senses this via the return temp and ramps up and runs longer, overnight the ASHP does next to nothing, as no need. Energy consumption, next to nothing at the moment doing cooling. Drive everything direct from ASHP. Just balance the flows to rooms to get temperatures correct and set the WC curve, which should be almost flat. Ours starts at 10 (26) and goes down to -9 (29) - changes by 3 degrees Cylinder heating - Do you have the heat pump set to heat DHW cylinder? Some heat pumps (mine does) work in the following manner. You set the cylinder temp, if the heat pump doesn't achieve the heating in a single cycle it record where it got too and only heats to that level every other time. So example, you set to 55, the heat pump gets to 60 degree flow temp, if it has only achieved 45, it will only heat to 45 then after. So that's one thing to check. To check immersion turn your immersion on - Cylinder should increase in temp if it works - leave for 1/2 an hour. If you have a smart meter the electric consumption should jump by 3kW if it does work. Leak check, he should be able to pressurise the system with a hand pump to very high pressures to find the leak. Leak stop say no, say fix.

Again port a loo. Ground worker provided and invoiced me until I was finished with it, hire company serviced it weekly. Site water was via a 1m3 plastic tank. Which we filled around twice. All concrete was ready mix.

Think the real issue with boreholes is power cuts. No electricity equals no water. We have batteries now and a generator.

Hi welcome, plenty of information available on heat pumps, any questions also ask away, with specific questions in a new post.

Our neighbours have had around 3x 24 hour water outages, main water leaks and fixing, since we moved in, so far none for us.

Ours a little different in cost, but much less deep Borehole and lining £5000 Borehole pump, submersible cable & stainless steel wire. Steel well cap. Pipe work & fittings at borehole. Pressure vessels & controls. 40 litres per minute system £1800 Backwashing iron reduction filter. Backwashing turbidity filter. Stainless steel ultraviolet steriliser. Sediment pre filter housing kit. £1750. So around £8600 total.

We have a borehole also. Main connection although very near close, came with issues. So went borehole. Our company would not drill or price until their water diviner had been. It was ace to watch, within 10 mins of being on site, he said we will drill here, first water will be at 8m (I think), ignore and the second water will be at 34m. Within a metre when it came to drilling. Costs, drilling isn't that expensive it's the liners they need to add, and it really depends on how much steel ones they need, compared to plastic. Every hole is different. Then you need, pump, accumulator and filter system. And serviced each year. Ours worked out cheaper than mains connection, and annual service is way cheaper than water costs here and have better tasting water (no chlorine)

Just to add further. We have had our cooling on 24/7 for the past 6 weeks. It just cools when it needs to no thermostat, no timers. Made some adjustments to get the system self modulating. Settings are such that the when the return temp to the heat pump gets to 19.4 degs the heat pump starts. If rooms are hotter from solar gain etc, the heat pump runs longer and more frequently. Overnight the heat pump may start a couple of times. Below are the flow temps over 24 hrs (yesterday), the two big spikes are DHW heating. As you can see the heat pump doesn't actually run that much. 11 starts in 24 hrs for cooling. Power consumed around 1.5kWh, about 8-10kWh of cooling delivered. Below is house temperature, it's pretty stable. House temps do spike a little when we get solar gain but they settle back down quite quickly.

You also need to make sure the gradient of the slope is within regs.

Does the ballastrade system meet all the design requirements? "In general there are three main uniformly distributed line load requirements for barriers or balustrades and these are, 0.74kN/m, 1.5kN/m and 3kN/m. This refers to the force applied to the balustrade per linear metre of balustrade at 1100mm above finished floor level. These loads in general cover the following locations (although it is always prudent to refer directly to the standard to ensure that every situation is covered). Areas not susceptible to overcrowding in office and institutional buildings including stairs, walkways and balconies – 0.74kN/m Areas where people might congregate and public walkways and pavements less than 3m wide that protect a drop – 1.5kN/m. Footways or pavements greater than 3m wide and public areas such as theatres, bars, shopping malls and other areas susceptible to overcrowding – 3kN/m You should revisit the changes with structural engineer, for loading and general balcony design.

How are 150mm+ ducts connected to the outside world airtight? You would drain via waterless traps, which are airtight anyway. Your installation manual should tell you to install low point drains Mine says " ducting condensate drain must be fitted to vertical To Atmosphere duct work."