JohnMo

You balance via emitter area principally and fine tune with flow adjustment, which is part of commissioning. You can add Salus self adjusting actuators which peg dT across a loop so it's constant if you want. You can have a thermostat in every room. Many options. Make as simple or complicated as you like. You do what you need and feel you want to do.

We have it. Am I bothered - no Why, because it's installed in an appropriate manner, is not sprayed on to hold a failed roof together and not applied to non-breathable membranes.

More info needed Is manifold connected directly to heat pump? Do you have a buffer? Do you have mixer and pump on manifold? Do you have room thermostats?

Ditch the idea you are over thinking it. Ditch the buffer, ditch the thermostat(s). You have taken zero account of floor inertia. Which can be huge. You can simply buffer excess energy in the floor, way more capacity than a water container buffer. Simple - your heat pump already manages the return temp. But it needs to be directly connected. No mixers or additional pumps needed. You set a WC curve to match your heat loss. The compressor within you heat pump is started and stopped based on target flow temp, a delta T and therefore by default the return temperature is managed. The compressor starts based on return temp, stops based on flow temp control hysterisis. A simple self regulating system is ASHP, WC, UFH manifold. You really don't need anything else. Your room gets solar gain, the floor stops giving out heat, continuous circulation moves the energy elsewhere in the house.

Are you switching off the UFH and switching on the radiators? If so that could be the issue. Do you have a buffer and secondary pump? Or are you running straight off the ASHP. If your UFH is fine, you switch it off, you could be trying to squeeze a lot of flow through a small radiator circuit. Especially if the plumber has balanced the whole system to work as one big circuit. Think we will need much more details about your system and how it is all operated etc. more details the better

What happens if you just turn off that radiator? Do you get noise elsewhere?

Stick big 500W plus solar panels on the roof?

Really depends on heat pump size, but more importantly how many kW you need to flow through that particular section of pipe. At dT 5 15mm will carry 2.75kW, 22mm will carry 6kW. 28mm is happy with 10kW.

Or set up a reminder/alert on the phone to repeat every 6 months - zero cost option - yet another manufacturer interface deleted from your life

Maybe your boost is set too high?

I bought my units, I have two, from eBay. The two units are Titon HRV, great no issues in 3 years. There is zero fancy stuff with then, one unit tells me to clean filters and when it's on boost. I am firmly in the keep it simple camp, it's just ventilation. You don't need internet connectivity or fancy interfaces, you set it up and leave it alone to get on with it. One has a built in humidity sensor, the other I installed an aftermarket one. For the first year they boosted occasionally, but now house is dry, they very rarely need to. Mine were self installed, self commissioned, but checked by a professional with certified equipment for building control.

Just swop it out for one with a manual isolation screw. Instead of an always open tube. Something like one of these https://www.monsterplumb.co.uk/auto-bottle-air-vent-1-2-top-vent

Mainly because all wooden framed windows are good thermally, the aluminium adds weather resistance. Many aluminium windows historically (lots still are) had absolutely rubbish thermal properties. Newer one's can be good. But they certainly are not pure aluminium. The aluminium forms weather resistant coating over plastic instead of wood. So pretty much the same just sold differently.

Interesting it doesn't state UG or UW. SO pretty meaningless as far as performance.

They have to have a turning space at the house end, so no reversing back down the lane. They need a defined weight loading design fir the road so they don't get stuck.

Homely is running the heat pump changing the demand flow temp etc. to get lowest running costs. I would be careful trying to hard, Homely may just throw a wobbly or just overwrite your settings anyway. If it's mild outside any heat pump will only run a short while because the radiators or UFH cannot shift the heat quickly enough. The only way to make it run a long time, is to use an elevated flow temp. If want Homely to run your heat pump then let it do so, or remove it and set it up yourself, not sure there is a middle ground. Homely is set to manipulate any or all heat pump settings to get the best energy usage/cost.

Move your energy to Octopus now, they will disconnect for zero cost. Alteration will still involve a meter and standing charge. Disconnect will not.

So there is no second home taxes to pay, or increased council tax etc. Not sure why there would be unless she already has a house registered in her name. As first time buyer not even sure there is stamp duty to pay. What the property firmer use was, is nothing to do with what you purchase for. For this purchase it will be your daughter's primary home.

Thought you were were putting in your daughter's name? Anything else will cost lots, second homes are expensive in Scotland.

Are you pretty much airtight or still a leaky Victorian house?

You may need to isolate the manifold, depressurise the manifold and take the flow meters off and clean them. This is what they look like internally. A little valve is pushed by a water flow against a spring

If you look at the best performing (CoP and SCoP) on the heat pump monitor, they all cycle quite a lot. It's a normal behaviour.

Low noise mode will reduce output across the board doesn't make it want to modulate more. If you have Homely it's sorting out the running modes. What are trying to fix?

We have UFH through out, all acting as a single zone. I flip about how I run the system, weather compensation and batch charging, but have over the last week been running a slightly elevated flow temp over night (around 32), then using floor as a storage heater (batch charge). But have less UFH pipes in the bedroom so a lower output (or you could reduce flow through those loops). We keep the bedroom doors closed throughout the day, so they don't get as warm, as the rest of the house. So most of yesterday the house had been at just above 21, bedrooms just below 20. By 10pm the house has cooled to just below 21, heating generally off until after midnight. It then starts up again and charges the floor. Heating the floor is a slow affair, so by 0730 the house is back to 21. Just use a simple 0.1 hysterisis thermostat to control. Thing with UFH it's very different to radiators, the change in room temp or house temp takes an age to change. But all done with flow temps are quite lot lower than radiators.

Bit of conflicting requirements - you want to calculate but you also just want 3 phase. Why bother calculating? Although no idea why a domestic house needs 3 phase! If as stated, it could get away with 4kW, would need to do the calcs. We have all you state above, except car charger, our highest 30 mins demand over the last few days including driving immersion (3kW) and heat pump on, MVHR, well pump, treatment plant compressor etc at that point was just over 1.8kWh in 30 mins, so just under 16 amps from a 100 amp supply.