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Everything posted by JohnMo
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Can I use this roofing membrane as my internal vapour barrier?
JohnMo replied to Co1's topic in Timber Frame
Shows you should always check. Cheap product, with expensive repairs required in 10 to 15 years, if you had taken his poor advice. Someone is possibly getting their house built now, with roof membrane as a vapour stop membrane. And the builder will do his next that way also! Doesn't bear thinking about. -
So That's small beer on a global or country perspective, tax take in 2024 in UK was about 1,100 billion. It makes money by making companies pay to use it or they get hit by more expensive carbon credit penalties. My last reasonably sized project was £2 billion, payback was in between 8 and 10 months. Project life expectancy 15 years. Two ways to look at emissions. London has huge issues with localised population caused by lorries, ships and cars. Removing those sources of pollution from bad areas, fixes those pollution issues at a local level. Makes no difference on a global scale, but people living in that area can breath better and live more healthy. Carbon capture is a just a slightly bigger version the above. If we look after the smaller stuff that effects us, it's a good thing, not a bad one. You putting 400mm of loft insulation in does nothing for emissions on a global scale, but it reduces your emissions, helps your wallet in the long term. Your next door neighbour doesn't bother, but why should it not stop you doing the right thing. Don't look at things as global this, and global that, we can do things we control, doing the right thing gives a cleaner healthy country.
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I was involved in a project a couple of decades ago for Peterhead power station - all CO2 was captured (all flue gas in fact) it would have been process, hydrogen comes out as a waste product (no market for it then, there is now), waste gas stream gets compressed and sent offshore to spent well.
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Sort of right but somewhat oversold as heat pumps modulate power down reasonably well in most cases. A house needs a given amount of heat and to a large degree the same kWh of heat is the same for any heat source. The thing that cripples (makes them costly to run) heat pumps is flow temperature. So the ideal is a heat pump heating system designed to a max of a out 40 and no more than 45 degs. The lower the flow temp the less it costs to run.
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I used stainless steel mesh and expanding foamed in to stop mice etc. then sealed with mastic to stop water etc.
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I did a dicitation on flywheels back in the early 90s. Run them on magnetic bearings and either partial or full vacuum, the losses are miniscule. You can run smaller flywheels at many 10s of thousands rpm. Never wear out either. But if you loose control or they explode there is lots of energy to contain.
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Can't say I fully agree. But if it makes us more self reliant on energy, what's not to like? Better than being at the beck and call of Russia, USA and the middle east, and they decided to do next.
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Doesn't seem to happen in Scotland, we have lots of renewables only days!
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I never come across a caulk that doesn't shrink and leave gaps everywhere after a couple of years. If caulk based I really wouldn't bother, will it last? Will you be airtight in a years time?
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But that isn't going to happen, there will always be steam turbines, either nuclear or hydrogen as heat source, plus hydro etc.
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Maybe still true, but you do get different options and view points on many diverse scopes.
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Isn't the telegraph agenda to blame everything on net zero. So just normal reporting from them. So why bother reading it.
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Not really, it is being done prior to second fix so will not be valid. So will need to be repeated. It's more akin to a prior to second fix diagnostic test.
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Sorry can't help myself We did approx 210m² Durisol blocks (so full of holes) with sand, cement and lime parge, 2 off us a day and half and nearer £200 than £4k. Block work would have used half the parge coat. So not very good value for money.
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We're at 200mm concrete below the insulation with 2x rebar, then I put 100mm fibre reinforced over the insulation. Plus there are reinforced strip foundations under that. But we are a sand hill side.
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Forgot to mention not withstanding your wee concrete thickness I wouldn't have pipes under walls. Many would, but no chance of hitting pipes if they are not there. And easy to design out now. No need for UFH in the plant room, under staircase or in cupboards. Does your UFH design output enough heat to provide heat for upstairs?
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As @Conor we run generally in storage heater mode (on E7 tariff). We have a 13kWh battery, but on a typical winter day (rubbish PV) we ended up drawing in full price electric too often when doing WC. We have a heat demand of about 3.5kW but at -9, and with 6kW we cannot batch charge the floor fully at off peak rates when really cold. Thick floor will buffer heat very well without overheating the house. In March we charged the floor in the day on excess PV. So was getting a CoP of 5 from free electric, running heat pump at 33 to 35 degs. Unlike a radiator system, thick screed allows you to oversize the heat pump with zero penalty. But use a low hysterisis thermostat +0, -0.1 is best failing that +/- 0.1. Is +0.5 degs a realistic design temperature for a heating system? I would be looking at -3 as a minimum - Or are you living somewhere hot? Look on eBay there are 8kW ASHP on there which looks good for less than £1500.
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It's part of the combi valve that goes on the cold water feed into the cylinder.
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Serious note, the manifold directly above the UVC may lead to a thermosyphon wicking away the hot water. You need to make a heat trap first. Once you have the heat trap you can do what you wish with the piping and have manifold above the UVC without risk of the thermosyphon occurring.
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Get those big manifolds and stop complaining 😁
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Levelling the site with soil
JohnMo replied to Lincolnshire Ian's topic in Landscaping, Decking & Patios
Do you mean, the garden needs building up or the location of the house needs building up? If it's garden you don't want to compact the soil. If where the house will be you will be stripping out the top soil, so you don't want to add more. Do want your structural engineer says to do. -
That's why mine is simple - one hot one cold to each wet room only. KISS wins the day
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Then bonded poly beads fully filled?
