JohnMo

Our pump has its own timer, but cannot see why a simple single channel timer wouldn't do it for you.

Would you then correct he plumbing? one EV is in the wrong place I.e. both should be upstream of pump.

Is it beeping because the battery is going flat or in alarm mode, which isn't a beep. If the boiler or stove is off or gas hob then there is no source of CO. You can normally shut gas off at meter I think.

Why would even need to go that route with UFH. The floor is huge a buffer already. A half decent boiler has a PWM circulation pump built in, so will do it for you. Then just use a low hysterisis thermostat on a fixed flow temp, the boiler is happy with. If I set flow to 38 degs it will run for hours on end, with out stopping, direct to floor, no additional pumps, I just use a +0 -0.1 hysterisis thermostat to control, when average temp outside is below 5 degs for 6 hours. All other times the ASHP is available to run. Heat pump does the same with UFH and fan coil using a +/-0.1 thermostat, that flow is set to 30 up to 33 degs.

Just reread this, maybe not. The pressure vessel is there to stop a short open of a tap firing up the pump to reduce start cycles, but so give immediate flow when you open the tap. The pressure vessel goes between down hole pump and filter system. Filters goes before any users.

Exactly what we did. The pipes in the house (to each wet room) all go under the floor insulation (cast into the concrete slab) as well, so tap water is about 6 degs after a couple of seconds all year round. Just looked at ours it is 100L not 50L as stated above.

0.3 bar different from being at the same level. If your pump is 50m down the borehole, you are doing not much extra work lifting an extra 3m. Just set the the pump starts and stop threshold for pump start and stop a little higher - if you need. Don't fret.

Sounds like it's doing very little unless you have a huge heat pump. Are you on an external plate exchange or internal heat coil? Sounds like the cylinder is just getting stirred up and cylinder thermostat says I'm hot enough. Heat pump does work at high temperature with no benefit Even more evidence the tanks just getting stirred Just give it an 1.5 hrs window to heat and see what happens

It's also a mandatory part of Scottish planning, you need to produce a house manual and hand over a copy to the council as part of the house sign off.

Why do you add that, tabs have all that covered. Haven't used rinse aid or salt in the last decade or more. So WiFi is just costing you money - not that decent really.

Very nice selection.

We to had the discussion at Christmas - then thought better of it. Makes you wonder with these companies - people pay money ahead of time for a so called share of an asset still to be built - so if asset exists or part exists you are a part owner, so should have a few nuts and bolts at the end, even if the holding company goes bust. But more likely the terms will make you responsible for the debt? The receivers screws the common man over, and they ends with nothing, even if the wind turbine is chugging away producing electric.

Have had a couple of those also a non turbo, and twin turbo Not currently available as far I know.

I have a single cylinder motorcycle (GasGas 2 stroke), a V twin buggy (Aprilia RSV engine), a V4 motorcycle (Honda ST1300 based), a V6 car (Alfa Stelvio Q4), a V8 car (Alfa 147 with mid mount Lexus) and a 3 cylinder diesel (Transit). Have most bases covered except, V10 upwards.

We have 5 access doors to house all are level. You need to understand where water goes and how it travels. Our front door is the assigned accessibility door, but we have a 2m roof overhang plus everything slopes away from house. All other doors are from elevated decking so water can run through gaps in the decking to reduce risk at house edge. But everything was designed that way from the start so it all got thought through.

No, check the home brew monitor system first. Set cylinder to heat once maybe twice per day only. There are 3 different target temperatures for the cylinder in a 24 hour period. Set once for a cheap electric period and once middle of day for best CoP, all other times set to 10 degs so DHW doesn't fire up unnecessarily. Always heat to same temperature or don't heat at all. Target 47 to 50, anything higher is a waste of energy. The temperature monitor is at the bottom 1/3 of the cylinder, its temperature dropping a few degs means nothing on a 400L cylinder, you still have 300L of super hot water.

Someone listening, may think that's a major issue. Microphone stops, they can no longer hear you plotting to buy you next dishwasher - they can't then bombard you with appropriate (!) advertising.

Our french door don't have adjusters, but the installer has a tool that slips over the hinge and bends the hinges. Our door alignment changed over the first two years and became stiff to open and close properly. They can out 5 mins later all fixed.

Strong suspicion there will be a bit of shite in, shite out going on. It looks like from your bottom trend, the cylinder temp goes up about 7x in a 24 hrs period on the 19th, if you are actually heating that many times, you maybe getting a rubbish CoP as everything is occurring at high temperature. A lot of energy being moved aboard not much work being done? You seem to have the same CoP for DHW over a whole day, wouldn't expect hot generation to be over a whole day, just one or two heats. When you start projecting a CoP that occurs for an hour over 24 hrs you get rubbish out How exactly are you measuring CoP for DHW? How many times do you heat the cylinder per day?

That's going over the top - one program is all we ever use

The basics of how I operate Charge to 100% on cheap rate. So at 7.30am it's fully charged. At 7.30am house is provided by battery. If sun's out the PV feeds house first and then tops up battery if not at 100%. Any short fall in PV output then battery tops up house. It continues providing power to house until at 4% charged, irrespective of what occurs to mains. Everything occurs automatically. When It gets to 00.30, battery charges again and in cheap periods mains supplies house, unless there is a power outage and then the battery takes over automatically. I just set the tariff rates and how much to charge to, then leave it to it. Can do stuff with home assistant like set charge % based on solar forecast, worked most the time, but not always, so gave up on it. Last week or so has been good for PV, but still cold (-3 last night) but run ASHP during day on excess PV to charge the floor, basically heating almost for free at a CoP of 4.5 to 5. At 4.30pm battery generally at 95%. Energy costs about £1.70 a day this week including heating and hot water. Last week was an average of £1.90 a day. Equivalent of 6.5 to 7.5kWh at standard rates. On a bad day I will export 3kWh, good days less than 1kWh - I don't get paid for export

Exactly - just do AC coupled. One box does it all. Leave the PV on string inverters to do it's thing. Good thing about AC coupled it runs the whole house (ours does 6kW output until battery flat, if you want), so a power cut comes along the house just carries on as normal, string inverters also stay online.

That about sums it up. Will never get used again, in reality.

braze - no This is a pressure vessel don't mess with them. Fix leak as discussed about. If the cylinder leaks replace it.

Multiple answers, because multiple heat pumps use different algorithms, so no set answer. Some heat pumps will try to target a fixed dT, modulate output and pump speed or just modulate output, while others do variable dT on a fixed speed or variable speed circulation pump and everything in-between. Choose your heat pump - then ask specific questions? If you want a buffer, just install as a two port, then different flow rates have less effect on system efficiency anyway. Heat pumps duty then becomes keep buffer temperature within limits, if house is drawing the same flow rate as heat pump delivery then the buffer is just by-passed anyway.