crispy_wafer

Is there a basin? or is that to the side of the w/c just wondering if that would have any impact on things I haven't got as far as thinking about trays and formers yet, but will this be flush with the finished floor, wetroom style?

As title, thinking how to minimise hire costs and delivery charges, as I'll need the digger to create the hole in the ground anyway, so if I wanted to self offload a Rewatec ASP 6 (about 230kg) from the back of a lorry would a 3t be big enough or do I need to go larger?

Cheers @Nickfromwales Seemed I was getting a bit excited about plumbing, but must board the area first. Always something to stop me having fun! So, Yeah, mains in, a feed to the sink, and outside tap with DCV, a run to the utility (cylinder control group), with a PRV, and a Tee for the Washing machine in an accessible location, I'll include isolators, or shut off valves at each leg too. Been living on this water main and site for 30 years, and honestly never had an issue with the water, last washing machine lived to a grand old age, and the kettle is fine - These are my not so scientific instruments of water hardness 🤣. Did discuss a softener with Mrs, but just seemed an unnecessary expense/luxury. However on the other side of Lincoln (Washingborough) at work the kettles need de scaling every couple of weeks, the water is terrible stuff.

At that price, I'd be looking to go off-grid. Seriously though, if you have a contact give them a bell and ask what if anything can be done to get the price down, sure there will be costs for the footpath and highway that probably cant and wont change but mention a lower amp supply and see if that alters the cost. Up here they wont give anything other than 80A per phase, so maybe 100A per phase requires twiddling at their equipment which you are paying for. Fingers crossed it's a simple as that.

I know prices are subjective and not really talked about much, so I appreciate all your input. It's good to know I'm in a decent place price wise with these BM's. I've got a WTP to order aswell, I'll see if they would be interested in a small discount. I like this BM partly because the drivers know how to back their wagons up the driveway and will have a natter, others just tend to just huff and puff and make a big deal of it.

Thanks @nod They have added 70 sheets of soundboard at 10.83, granted it's not a huge order in the grand scale of things, just making sure I'm in right area.

Just wondering if anyone would like to share what prices they are paying for PB and bits at the moment, I've got a couple more quotes from my BM's to come in, so am wondering if they are in the right sort of ballpark. So (ex vat) 100* 12.5mm Siniat std board 2400*1200 @ 7.84 25* 12.5mm Siniat MR board 2400*1200 @ 14.30 18* 25kg Bonding compound @ 7.42 35 25kg Board finish plaster @ 6.78 I've been told to get 70*TEN Wallboard for the stud walls from the QS I used as well as acoustic insulation, but this merchant failed to quote on that board, or should I just double layer std board? Ta

Just seemed a bit counter productive to run the pipe away to the control set, and then back again from the cold manifold just for the utility sink & wash m/c. But I do understand your point, so is it feasible to install a pressure reducing valve and take the sink and wash m/c from this to mitigate? Just trying to keep pipes to and fro to a minimum and as simple as possible...

Morning all, Pic below shows the incoming mains supply into the utility Plant area is 2m ish to the left. Cupboards, sink etc will be installed under the window. I don't think I'm too bothered about concealing these bits of pipework as they'll be in or behind the cupboard. Would it be better to board, or skim this wall before proceeding with this bit of plumbing?

once you get the hopper off you might need something like ACO 110mm Universal Outlet End Cap : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools and then maybe a 110mm 90 angle, i've no experience doing this but to me it seems like a solution. Just work out your depths and make sure the ACO is sitting nicely below the DPC or you'll end up giving yourself further issues. And where is the drainpipe going to drain to? Into the aco channel?, or do you want to have the hopper for the drain pipe and channel for surface?

Yeah @jayc89, hep manifolds are made up ready to rock and roll for cold and hot feeds to the rest of the build, just the colds in the utility where the main rises may aswell take feeds direct rather than bring pipes back in. Just waiting on some 3/4*22mm fittings to complete the manifolds, then I can work out a bit of placement in my plant cupboard.

Great stuff, thanks!

Cheers @Dave Jones is this 2022 regs or the older regs?

Adding a few for decisions into the mix... I could do this A or B There is a likelyhood there will be cabinets covering the bulk of the pipework, except for in pic 1 where pipe goes past the wash m/c feed. Pic 2 I'm looking at concealing the pipe in a chase, And/Or behind D&D What do you reckon, Route A, or Route B? leaning towards A as its's simpler and less pipework

Wish it did, just shows payment reference.

Yep, Good point.

Quick question Got this receipt from my local agg supplier for some sand, Should I push for an Invoice on headed paper or would this pass muster with the reclaim people

I'm procrastinating again! This time over how I ought to plumb the incoming mains to the plant room. Originally I was thinking copper 22mm, take off a couple of reducing T's for Sink and outside tap, up the wall, through the web joists and down into the plant room, which then got me onto thinking about chasing the wall out so the dot and dab will go over the pipe nicely, then what about covering/protecting the pipe from the adhesive blah blah blah I'm heading down a rabbit hole. Or should I just HEP20 it, same route plan, just add metalized tape over the pipe where it will be behind plasterboard?

Hi, I've got about 30t of crusher run turning up today as I'm planning on starting to build up the area and levels around the build. Ultimately we'll have the area I'm building up overlaid with something more appealing like slabs or tiles, but I'm reckoning a good base of crusher is a decent start. I'd already moved a load into place before the build but as its decent outside and I'm putting off some indoor jobs for a week or two So in trying to work out how much material I need to get into place, how much below DPC should my finished surface be? - 2 bricks? Then under the slabs I will be adding 100mm of whacked 1" down limestone - 1 brick, so that should give me about 100 I need to raise at the moment? Does that sound/look about right using the pic below as a sample?

Would like to sing the praises and reiterate the general consensus of using a credit card to protect yourself when purchasing. Long story short, tried to purchase something, website showed stock. Retailer couldnt/wouldnt deliver the item, obviously out of stock, later found out due to manufacturers lead times. Retailer would not respond to requests for information. Got arsey when I suggested cancel the order, finally cancelled then wouldn't refund the money. Section 75 team stepped in and sorted out for me. Yes, I ought to be a bit more savvy when buying, but I'm building to a tight budget and am looking for bargains everywhere. A few personal lessons to learn, but happy I escaped this time. A few rules to adhere to Section 75 | Your Rights Explained | Experian

Wonder if this 60l tank is some kind of buffer tank? Does it have it's own immersion?

is this a DIY install or did you commission a company to do for you? have you much scope in your airflow calcs to lower the fan speeds?

Worst that could happen, is that you trim the riser wrong, but (make sure you find out the manufacturer of the IC and risers so you can identical) you can then fetch another and have another go... Inlet is fine on the branch angle. outlet is on the main run - good!

At least the In is higher that the Out! Once you have removed the surrounding material from the IC can you twist it so would point a bit more upright? If so, the easiest method would be do that, then trim the top riser at at angle so the cover fits flush with the ground level. Not perfect, but would it still be functional. If you are dead set on making it perfect, then you'd need to expose a good length of out, and in pipe. You can cut pipe with a saw then knock out the I/C resite it and rejoin with a couple of slip connectors and a bit of pipe. Have a look over at Inserting an Inspection Chamber | Pavingexpert as most of what I'd type out is probably better explained there.

Aye, pumped outlet to a drain.