Dave Jones

there should be a hidden gutter between the two roofs under that bodge of ridge tiles. It's purpose is to provide a watertight barrier where you have 2 dissimilar tiles that dont bond. Not a huge job, get rid of those ridge tiles and fit the trays. days work tops. Assume the right hand house is a council house with the external cladding, maybe get onto them ?

change of direction normally needs a chamber. the size of the chamber is dictated by the depth. A good drainage design minimises chambers.

m2 build costs inc everything other than land cost.

i rest my case.

sure a digger can pile it into skips real easy. skips = ££££££ muck away for bricks, blocks and tile = cheap. you do the math.

take out all the wood, skirts, doors, window frames, kitchen, archi etc and burn it. you will still have to pick the roof trusses from the rubble to burn. take out all the loft insulation. strip out all pipework, cylinders, tanks etc. when you knock it down you will have to pull out of the pile anything that isnt a brick, block or roof tile so easier to do it before hand.

what is your m2 build budget (excluding the land), this will shape the decisions.

the screed is 35mm out ?

this is not a warm roof.

890 is fine, i wouldnt worry about it.

Warm roof rot lol

Make sure there is ventilation at the eaves and the ridge unobstructed by steels etc you need airflow from bottom to top with nothing in its way. if you have a flat roof can look at mushroom vents.

pretty much all wrong. the vcl is there to stop moist air from inside migrating into the insulation. How you going to do that without lapping it down the walls? you could have a parapet and lap it up that but don’t see many sheds with a parapet. the whole point of a warm roof is ventilation is not required as it’s a sealed sandwich by the vcl from below and the covering above.

I don't believe there is a distance requirement for pumped chamber. There is however for ceptic tanks.

almost but you want the vapour barrier to seal to the inside walls so needs to be underneath the joists. also waste of money top decking, you can buy glass fibre backed insulation that takes the epdm spray.

the issue will be where the dew point ( condensation) forms, for example outside is 0c then inside will be between 0c and whatever the temp is inside which will be higher. so condensation will form inside the building its just a case of where. you want it above the insulation so the air gap takes care off it. problem is you dont have a uniform covering just stuffing it between the joists. vapour barrier will do nothing unless you put a warm roof on which will stop it completely.

underwriters have gone bust CRL went a few years ago leaving the warranty worthless.

dont look on any of the consumer sites chekatrade etc as if they are on there for a reason. Have a drive round and find a build happening locally and have a chat, expect to wait for decent trades. personally id drop that side extension and start again its a total bodge and a real trade wont want to be polishing a turd.

http://www.thewatercalculator.org.uk/

you can staple UFH to EPS no problem at all, just have to use more.

stub cills look good with stone cills as you dont have the double cill effect.

you have a cold roof, this means you need copious ventilation to keep it dry. Much better would be a warm roof.

either is fine. if you dont have to wait for a sewer connection then its easiest before the shell goes up as you have space.

nope. you need an air gap under the osb. vap barrier is pointless in a shed.

separate the lounge and kitchen. nothing worse.