bassanclan

How would it work out with the mosaic effect tile landscape instead of portrait?

Would cutting a one square depth of the mosaic effect tile not be sufficient? They look about 30mm

If your cuts are in at the junctions of wall/floor or wall/wall you won't see them especially after a file yo smooth the edge

It looks very good. Do you really want an angled wall in Bed 3 and family area? Might the stairs be better with a double half landing, it looks a bit tight at the top of the stairs. (You would have to move the door to bed 4) The corner window/bifold in the living room could be swapped to be a straight window/bifold. It seems an unnecessarily expensive way of doing it A large house such as this would ideally have a double/triple garage. Is the plot too tight for this?

Whatever thickness you want, but put your lines at 2-3mm vertical and 2-3mm horizontal

I've used the grey in this exact situation (internal angle) and had no problem. Put two lines of masking tape to keep a straight run and plenty of multisolve on your finger to help smooth it

That can only mean your bead is not straight. You probably need to cut the right hand tile and put that in. It might be going to end up 2,1,1,2...3 What space have you got between the bead and the tile on the vertical face?

I'm a fan of the torx bits, my only problem is I've got plenty PZ2 bits, but never a Torx 30 when I need it!

I'm currently halfway through doing this job with a 2.4m celing with 120mm + 60mm drop from the celing

I'venot done it in a living room before, but in a kitchen with a celing height we took the celing a total of 142mm over kitchen cuboards and islands without any negative consequences

You've got to think about your celing height as well, to avoid it coming down too low.

It might be easier to just use some PSE timber, then you might be able to get the size you want

If you are concerned then why not put the grout in the gap as @Nickfromwales says then grey CT1 over if you like? Not sure why you would want to put an inferior product "silicone" when you can use grey CT1 which is not going to be far off the colour of your grout anyway

You can get grey CT1 which will be ideal for your job anyway. Either put your grout in first or ct1 in the joint, but I wouldn't be bothering with "silicone" unless you were set on it being white.

Yes of course. Personally I would still just ct1 (no grout) my thinking being if there is any movement it might be in the junction between wall and floor but everyone has their own way of doing things

Ebay item 123324209319 any good?

You'll want around 3mm, but also you'll want it fairly even. Multitool should get it off, just take it easy

10% off everything on ebay today until 8pm - use code PUMPKINS at the checkout Edit: Min spend £20 (but can be multiple items from different sellers) Max discount £50

You could put chrome compression elbows on the stubs coming out of the wall and then another short section of pipe up to the valves

Back in the day they bridged the cavity completely with bricks. It sounds like bad detailing from the architect. I would just leave the 150 cavity and specify cleats for fixing the windows

Any problem can be overcome, it just depends how much you want to spend overcoming a problem which is actually caused by your neighbour's "trespass"

Is it worth trying to get the TPO revoked/permission to remove? I can't see a 30yr old Robinia having such a positive impact on the street scene to warrant a TPO?

I doubt it will constitute commencement of the planning permission development. I don't think you actually need planning permission to demolish a building unless listed or in a conservation area.

For a high oil user he could hedge against rising oil costs by buying an oil derivatives or more simplistically oil shares. I'm just installing a wood burner with back boiler to reduce oil use, which in a rural area with access to "free" wood makes sense.

Stabila 96-2 is bulletproof, you'll never buy another level