Gone West

Yes, it was the first Isoquick installation in England in 2010.

We had Internorm entrance doors which were aluminium on the outside and pine on the inside.

Yes the drill bit should be at least as long as the fixing.

As @joe90 said you have frame fixings so they should be fitted as frame fixings. They are not raw plugs. Drill a hole of the appropriate size through the frame and into the wall and knock the fixing in.

@zoothorn As I posted three hours ago, I can't think of a different way to describe how to do it, sorry.

Put packers between the frame and the wall, above and below the hole, so the window frame is not bendy. The packers can be proper plastic packers or just pieces of wood trimmed to size. As in the video imagine there is a gap between the wood and the wall.

Try this video.

The whole frame fixing goes into the window frame and into the wall. The type I used many years ago went in with the screw halfway out of the plug and they were knocked in with a hammer and then a final tighten with a screwdriver.

Not stupid, but not something I would do. I am going to replace my 70% efficient old Rayburn with a 90% efficient Grant condensing oil boiler.

Welcome, and well done on the completed build. We started in 2010 and moved in 2018 so the same length of time. Got any pictures of the build, we like pictures on here.

Himalayan Birch may be good place to start.

Struth, you're a difficult person to please, 870mm of Celotex and it's not enough for you. 😁

That's not 30 minutes to fully set, just you should'nt be using it after 30 minutes. Explained in the document. Edit: https://media.wickes.co.uk/is/content/wickes/B3182_133770_TECH_0

It's a mix of sand, cement and 10mm aggregate. https://www.wickes.co.uk/Blue-Circle-Multi-Purpose-Ready-To-Use-Concrete---20kg/p/133770

I've used the Hanson stuff before, it's good. Just follow the instructions on the bag, it does set quick. Have everything ready to go rather than going off to get water or open bags.

Brick slips are slices of brick 10mm to 15mm thick which can be stuck to various substrates to give the effect of a solid brick wall. It certainly works as everyone thought our brick slips were whole bricks. https://www.wbs-ltd.co.uk/systems-solutions/system-finishes/15mm-brick-slips/ On the area under the porch glazing I stuck the brick slips directly to the EPS using gel PU glue. On the area under the front door you can see the EPS which was covered by the ramp up to the door. On the rest of the brick plinth the brick slips were attached using the Wetherby system on to BluClad board.

I stuck brick slips on mine, and five years later they were still there when I sold it.

I used metal boxes in the kitchen but elsewhere used plastic back boxes from TLC which were Kensington make. They were useless so changed them all for Appleby. You can get metal dry lining boxes but they're more expensive. Edit: The Kensington boxes were bought about six or seven years ago so the design might have improved since then.

We went for a Full Plans Submission which was checked and approved before any building work took place. I then knew that as long as it was built to the plans there was no comeback.

I was checking this out a few weeks ago for making a new window opening. I think the Naylor economy lintels can be fitted either way round but the pre-stressed ones are marked top. https://naylorlintels.co.uk/products/

Not like your windows, but IIRC I used two strips of Compriband, which fitted into grooves in the side of the window frame, which were 15mm wide and 10/18 expansion. I then used the Soudal foam to seal up to the Compriband tape inside and outside. The advantage of the Soudal foam was that it was very flexible after it had set. In your situation I guess you could use a wide strip of Compriband, with appropriate expansion, to seal the glass to the stone and then use burnt sand mastic to point the glazing.

I used Soudal foam, along with Compriband, for sealing around my windows and doors. Didn't use any tapes and got 0.47 ACH airtightness. https://www.sealantsandtoolsdirect.co.uk/soudal-soudafoam-window-door-sws-airtight-acoustic-gun-grade-expanding-foam-12-box

I've used the Paving Expert website for many years for stuff like that. https://www.pavingexpert.com/

We designed and built our own house to PH standards and didn't use an architect and I did the PHPP modelling. We were members of the AECB at the time and spoke to local architects about the build and had large numbers of AECB members visiting our site. From what we found out, there was little understanding of what PH really meant and the only certified PH architect visitor didn't fill me with confidence. I must add this was twelve years ago and things may have improved. I certainly wouldn't bother with employing an architect unless they were PH certified. It's important to model the design using the PHPP as you are then able to vary different aspects of the construction to find out where changes can be made to improve overall performance. By using this method we were able to build the house without having a conventional heating system and to design the internal layout to suit our requirements.

Another to add to your collection. https://www.dimplex.co.uk/product/edel-hot-water-heat-pump