Gone West

Oil in our area has gone from 85.17p/l in January to 68.11p/l today, so a volatile market. At todays price, to match a 90% efficient oil boiler you would need a CoP of over 4 for the A2A HP, so it's close.

If possible I would close the account and have the refund paid into my bank account.

I agree. If it really bugs you, then change it, is my view on things. I was told everything had to be flush.

I'm not sure about that, but I've attached the PDF. The P1000 filter is supposed to remove water hardness but it would probably be an expensive way of doing it if your water hardness is high. Our hardness was very high hence why we had a softener. brita-tapfilter-instruction-manual-EN.pdf

I fitted a water softener on our mains supply but fitted it after a seperate supply for drinking water and toilet cisterns. I fitted a water filter under the sink supplying a three way tap. In the first picture, the manifold with the white taps is hard water.

It looks to me like a very similar finish to the white wall.

When I was doing my metal shed at the last place I found a website that showed all that sort of detail. Says it should be vertical. https://www.mepits.com/tutorial/497/electrical/electrical-earthing-grounding

No only done one self build and that was enough 😀.

That's right, thank goodness 😁. The PHPP does do overheating, but it was just a comment about BC being able to be flexible if they want.

Mine was LPA BC.

Now that brings back memories. Glad I don't have to go through that again 😀. Trevor Bartlett was my very helpful supporting councillor back in 2009.

In 2010 when we started our PH build BC were happy to accept my PHPP results instead of a 'Design' SAP.

+1. Without the support of my local councillor I doubt we would have been successful with our application at committee.

I'm not sure it's approved for domestic use yet but I think it is for commercial use. Last time I looked it was around 12% more expensive.

I don't know. You could try asking the manufacturers, Neste Refineries (Finland) might be a good start.

I have lived for two years in North Cornwall in an 1840s built, solid stone walled bungalow which was 'renovated' in the 1970s. We currently have an oil fired Rayburn cooker supplying our conventional central heating. We are looking into either replacing the old Rayburn with a new condensing oil boiler or scrapping the central heating and fitting two multi split air to air heat pumps. We are leaning towards fitting a new oil boiler with the option of using HVO in the future. They have been carrying out tests with HVO locally for the last couple of years and so far it seems successful. Using an ASHP is bottom of our list of options. https://mitweb.co.uk/services/home-heating-oil-devon-cornwall/hvo-renewable-home-heating-fuel/

Yes it suited us perfectly but everyone is different and when you throw kids into the equation it muddies the waters no end. We wanted a straightforward simple and economical to run house, which is what we built. No complex controls. When we put it on the market the people who bought it wanted the same as us and were willing to pay the extra to have it. PH wouldn't suit everyone, especially those who want windows open all year round and a WBS roaring away. When we built our PH we were members of the AECB and had a lot of contact with architects and PH designers. I was very surprised at some of the basic mistakes they made and yet they were supposedly experts.

When I designed my house back in 2009 I was using the 2007 version of PHPP which IIRC, (subject to my squishy brain), didn't have the room by room analysis option. I can see that there could be advantages in carrying out a room by room analysis in a very large, poorly designed house, but it wouldn't have been an advantage to me. It's really best to follow the PH design principles as closely as possible.

I did the same back in the nineties in a Victorian cottage. When I fitted the windows, which were timber, I just cut a piece of plywood to fit the curve and screwed it to the top of the window with a batten.

https://gdllondon.seetickets.com/tour/grand-designs-live-excel?OfferCode=MSEGDL23

That doesn't make sense 😁. A PHPP analysis is carried out on the volume within the thermal envelope of the building. The PH concept aims for a single internal temperature throughout the building.

Is Everbuild Aquaseal the type of stuff you're talking about? I was looking at that the other day. https://www.sealantsandtoolsdirect.co.uk/everbuild-aquaseal-liquid-roof-membrane-coating-21kg-grey-aqliqrfgy21 A friend of my son in law is an electrician and said he would help. I drew up the circuit design myself and had it checked by him. I then carried out the first fix and had that checked and tested. When I had finished the second fix he carried out the tests and issued the Part P certificate.

Don't know about better, but I've only used nylon type frame fixings in the past when I've had a masonary house. https://www.screwfix.com/p/timco-nylon-frame-fixings-8-0-x-100mm-100-pack/687kg

Yes, that was the total heating supply for the house. We used to keep the whole house at 23C.

I designed and built our last house which was a PH. It was heated with three electric towel rails in the bathrooms and three square meters of electric UFH in the kitchen. A Genvex Combi 185LS supplied DHW heated with a built in EASHP. When required the EASHP also supplied warm air heating through the MVHR ducting.