Gone West

We have a garden with six areas of grass and a height difference of 16m between the highest and lowest points in the garden. Would you mind giving some details about your grassed areas and the type of lawn mower you have. We have been looking at the different types and we have a very poor mobile signal here which doesn't help.

Welcome to the forum. Having vertically challenged builders won't hold you back, plenty use stilts for plastering. 😁 Good luck with the project.

Well done, and only twenty pages!!

We tried an electronic water conditioner back in the late nineties as we had very hard water. It didn't work so the suppliers swapped it for a commercial version and that didn't work either. After that it turned into the beginning of using proper softeners, which were the twin cylinder type, and that lasted all the time we lived in East Kent. Now we are really lucky and don't need a softener.

It all depends on what they find out. A previous neighbour converted the end of his garage into a bedsit with LPG heating, shower, toilet and bedroom for his family to use when they came over. No planning or building control and he did a very neat job.

Yes we had a three way kitchen tap so we could have hard water for drinking and soft for everything else, but because the water tasted strange we had to have another filter just for drinking water.

When we were living in the old bungalow, while we were building our house, our Minimax twin cylinder softener packed up, probably around ten years ago. We thought we would try an electric softener as they were a fair bit cheaper, and we bought the Eco15 from Wrekin. It did work ok, but unfortunately the built in timer didn't remember the settings if there was a power cut. As a result it sometimes did a regeneration cycle during the day. It also wouldn't take salt blocks so we had to use salt pellets. When we moved into the new house we decided to go back to a twin cylinder and I fitted a Harvey Crown Softener. This was some time ago, so models have probably changed.

The installers used what looked like standard duct tape. It did the job for a couple of weeks.

Polycarbonate panels are usually fitted between aluminium channels, which are screwed to the rafters, and the panels held in place by a sprung plastic strip banged into the aluminium channel. They are usually very tight unless the wrong channel has been used for the thickness of polycarbonate. I would try @Redbeard idea of scaffold boards and remove the flashing and then knock the polycarbonate panels back into position. Fit new flashing and ensure the panels can't move again, possibly with a blob of CT1 between the panel and channel at the top under the flashing.

Are they fire doors, if not I don't see the significance.

Our 22mm Caberdek flooring was glued and ring shanked nailed and only the T&G joins were taped. It was open to the elements for a couple of weeks and had puddles on it at times but when the covering was peeled off it was fine.

Can it truely write code for something that has never been thought of before. I thought it was only using existing information and then learning/rehashing it, to give you what you want.

Where does it get the information from though, if it's never published in the public domain?

I think the last programming I did was in the early 80s using Fortran77 and I don't think the MoD would have been very happy if I'd got AI to do it for me.

I haven't got a clue what you're talking about, but it's great that you're getting things done, that you want.

I've only ever used yellow Frog Tape for your situation, and it's very gentle, not had any problems.

I have a curved bead lifter but if this is the only time you're likely to need one, try to find something with a similar edge.

I've capped central heating pipes live, but I wouldn't fancy doing high pressure mains 😁.

The builder must have turned the supply off in order to tap into the original pipe. Can't you ask the builder where he turned it off?

My arguement was that purely on cost grounds it is more expensive to have an ASHP fitted instead of replacing my oil boiler. One of the, possibly several reasons, it would be more expensive for me to do that, would be that I would have to replace the radiators. I understand there are several evangelical supporters of ASHPs and I accept that they are the best form of heating for new homes, but they are not a one size fits all solution to heating in all houses.

As I mentioned before and as has been said again, it needs heeling and toeing, as shown on page 7 of the manual I attached. I installed a fully glazed door a couple of weeks ago, and had to heel and toe it to get it to sit square in the frame.

Of the three, gas, electricity and oil, oil is definitely the cheapest type of purchased fuel for older properties. Of course if you build a new low energy consumption house, electricity will work out cheaper. I designed and built a PH and I heated it to 23C just with electric towel rails and a 600W EASHP. That isn't what @Roger440 nor I was talking about.

I haven't lived anywhere with mains gas for several decades, but I do know that currently, oil is very roughly, 10% cheaper than gas and 75% cheaper than electricity, accepting the volatility of prices. If installing an ASHP I would, at the very least, have to replace all my radiators as well. I therefore stick to my original statement, that for me, replacing my old Aga with a new condensing oil boiler is the best option for both installation and running costs. I accept that my option doesn't help with climate change.

This document has details on pages seven and nine that should help you. Your hinges look the same as ours, and if so, are easy to adjust. If it's not possible to achieve the amount of adjustment you need and you have a large pane of glass you can achieve a similar effect by heeling and toeing. It's all in the guide. Modern UPVC Installation Guide.pdf

Very true. I'll be replacing my old oil fired Aga with a new condensing oil boiler. There's no way for us that the sums add up to use an ASHP, for installation costs, or running costs in my old place. If I was forced to go all electric, I would use A2A.