Gone West

Yes, that's right. Also, I can see there's another mistake made when installing those plastic fittings. It looks to me like the plumber used Speedfit pipe and fittings and there should be a collet in the groove on the fitting. The collet is there to prevent the fitting from unscrewing by vibration and is a good check that the fitting has been installed correctly.

The easiest way is to use a short length, 70mm, of copper pipe into the brass compression fitting and a straight plastic connector joining the copper pipe to the plastic pipe.

Where a brass compression fitting is used with plastic pipe you will likely get a leak after a while. So this is all the places where you have white pipe attaching to a brass hexagon fitting, which is several in your picture. I would remove all the mouldy/damaged materials and have it replaced with new, and get a decent plumber.

@Nickfromwales should look at that. It's his favourite, compression fittings on plastic pipe!!

Very similar to the type I have. There should be a slot around the outside of the frame. The steel strap should be put in the slot so it is parallel with the edge of the frame and then turned through ninety degrees so that the two protruding lugs lock into the slot in the frame.

Sixteen years ago we had an Isoquick 300mm Peripor insulated raft foundation installed. The Structural Engineer specified 200mm compacted type 1 with 50mm thickness of 3mm granite fines on top, type 1 to be extended 700mm beyond outside edge of raft. The raft was 200mm thick with two layers of A393 reinforcing mesh and an additional third layer, 1200mm wide, around edge of two storey part of foundation. All this was for our ground conditions, yours could be very different.

Bolt the bottom fixing to a steel plate and screw the plate to the stonework with four screws.

I self installed and commissioned and the BCO wasn't even interested in seeing the paperwork, but that was eight years ago.

Ours was 99% done and all he wanted at that stage was all the certificates. We had a permanent ramp but it wasn't connected to the parking area as the bungalow hadn't been demolished, but he let that go.

I suggested that on pages 14 and 16 but apparently a 30kW oil boiler won't do the job!!

So many people have been drawn into this rabbit hole. No one listened to, no opinions changed. If you don't have the kind of understanding of science needed, then just accept what you are told and act accordingly.

Wasn't the Strangford Lough turbine a rotating one?

1. Boxed in order, small receipts stapled to a sheet of A4. Check receipts thoroughly before putting in box to make sure they have a VAT number and are proper VAT receipts. Each receipt was numbered in order to match the spreadsheet. 2. 385 3. Spreadsheet 4. No stress, my partner did it. 5. No That was back in 2018, things have changed now I think.

Our concrete slab had been down for nearly six years when we tiled. We used BAL flexible tile adhesive and used door threshold expansion strips. No decoupling matting used. We didn't have any problems.

Yes, we achieved 0.47ACH with only the Icynene, combined with the 15mm OSB3 exterior racking, as the airtightness. We didn't use any tapes or membranes in the structure at all. The windows and doors were sealed using two strips of Compriband and the Soudal SWS system.

That is something I looked at when designing my new build. I looked at the Rehau system which used silver plated ducting to kill off any bugs, but it was too expensive. That was sixteen years ago though, so things might have improved.

I think if I lived in the Netherlands I would rather buy from inside the EU.

We had a Genvex combined unit, but I think others on here have used standard Genvex MVHR units. Ours worked well and was straightforward to set up.

It's a shame Zoot that you aren't able to understand that your way of wanting to heat your type of house is 'fundamentally absurdly wasteful'. By letting the rooms cool down over night you would then be using more energy to heat them up again the next day, rather than leaving them heated all the time. If you want to heat a house that way you should move to a more modern house. As I have said before my house is a very similar type of construction to yours and is in a very damp part of the country, it is heated 24/7 and kept at 23C. It's not cheap but a 30kW oil fired Aga does the job.

So why don't you sell it and get a 30kW oil boiler, then you can run it the way you want to heat your house, no problems.

Is that a 3D printed transparent cover on the box? I didn't know you could print clear plastic.

Don't know what it was made from, but they were little honey coloured granules/balls. I liked the smell when I was a kid.

My father used "animal glue" in the 1950s, which he heated up in a metal pot inside a water filled pot. In the 1960s he started using the more modern Cascamite.

Twist the knife, why don't you 😀. I videoed the pour, and saw the concrete was going off before it was laid and there were voids forming. We had the slab tested for voids and several were found, so they took core samples and condemed it. All because they wanted to save money by not having to use a pump. So much easier the second time. Fortunately it didn't cost us a penny, but we did lose a couple of weeks.

Indeed!!