Gone West

As I mentioned, the Genvex Combi 185 is a MVHR with a built in EASHP. The HP heats the 185l hot water tank and provides warm air through the MVHR. I bought my Genvex direct from Denmark many years ago at a fraction of the cost from THE.

I designed and built a PH that didn't need conventional central heating. It was heated using an electric towel rail in each of the three bathrooms and by warm air heating from a Genvex Combi 185. The temperature of the whole house was kept at 23C. It only worked because the house was only 130m2, had good air tightness and very good levels of insulation. It was a very pleasant environment to live in.

I'm using a Predator saw/knife to cut mineral wool insulation and it's suprisingly effective. It's a tough material, a lot different to EPS/PIR. Worth a try for a tenner from Amazon.

This could be true! https://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/politics/ed-miliband-warm-homes-solar-power-energy-bills-b2892047.html

Yeah, that was ten years ago. Before we moved, I had a blog on here.

I would go back to the tiler you originally hired and ask his opinion. If he accepts the other tiler was working on his behalf, then it may encourage him to sort it out.

I would never get involved with Planning if I didn't have to, as in my experience they're a bunch of morons that just cost you money. Short and sweet, and just my opinion.

We've been watching 'Yes Minister' and 'Yes Prime Minister' on iPlayer recently. It shows that off exactly. Just as brilliant the second time around.

Not completely. I have a SOLAR iBOOST which has two outputs, although the instructions say they are for two immersions, I don't know why one couldn't be used for electric UFH.

I just used a WorkMate with the jaws around 40mm apart and rotated the downpipe as I cut it with the hacksaw.

In the Lindab instructions they specifically say not to use power tools for cutting. The reason they give, is that using power tools destroys the galvanising around the cut. Apparently if hand tools are used then the galvanising is able to 'creep' back over the cut surface and maintain rust proofing. We didn't have any rust problems after six years.

I cut all our Lindab guttering system with a hacksaw as was recommended by Lindab.

@Daffy Fields & @Gingerbread welcome to the forum, both. Good luck with your projects, plenty of good advice on here. Keep us updated.

Yup, we're showing our age 😀.

Close the flow valve fully, counting the number of turns. Then open the valve half that number. Leave it a day and if the room temperature is still too hot, or not hot enough, adjust the valve accordingly.

We've just fitted some Cedral Click cladding which was readily available through our local builders merchants. They do a smooth or wood effect finish in a range of colours including timber. They have a featheredge (Lap) or T&G (Click) type. https://www.cedral.world/en-gb/cladding/

I used a Floplast double branched connector for back to back WC connections into a single outlet pipe. The outlet dropped down and the AAV was connected to the top. The BCO was interested in the connector but was quite happy that it was designed for that purpose. We lived there for over three years without any problems. https://www.floplast.co.uk/product/double-branch

We used timber studwork covered in 12mm Hardiebacker board in all our bathrooms.

That's interesting, our trims were steel and were screwed down and the membrane was welded to the trim.

The problem is, who does that? To ensure it is correct would mean educating the masses about WC, who don't want to be educated about 'boring stuff'. As has already been said, finding professionals who can do it is difficult enough.

I don't understand. The underlay used is a material that looks like a dark green nylon pot scourer and isn't visible in the last picture 😕.

IIRC the upstand is on top of the underlay.

These are the best I've got, sorry.

I'll have a look, probably not from close to.

We had a Sika single-ply membrane installed on a small extension a couple of months ago. The edge trim upstand is a steel profile covered with a membrane. The profiles were fitted first, then the underlay and then the roof membrane was welded to the profile. The edge of the roof was just a double layer of 18mm OSB.