Gone West

I've only ever used yellow Frog Tape for your situation, and it's very gentle, not had any problems.

I have a curved bead lifter but if this is the only time you're likely to need one, try to find something with a similar edge.

I've capped central heating pipes live, but I wouldn't fancy doing high pressure mains 😁.

The builder must have turned the supply off in order to tap into the original pipe. Can't you ask the builder where he turned it off?

My arguement was that purely on cost grounds it is more expensive to have an ASHP fitted instead of replacing my oil boiler. One of the, possibly several reasons, it would be more expensive for me to do that, would be that I would have to replace the radiators. I understand there are several evangelical supporters of ASHPs and I accept that they are the best form of heating for new homes, but they are not a one size fits all solution to heating in all houses.

As I mentioned before and as has been said again, it needs heeling and toeing, as shown on page 7 of the manual I attached. I installed a fully glazed door a couple of weeks ago, and had to heel and toe it to get it to sit square in the frame.

Of the three, gas, electricity and oil, oil is definitely the cheapest type of purchased fuel for older properties. Of course if you build a new low energy consumption house, electricity will work out cheaper. I designed and built a PH and I heated it to 23C just with electric towel rails and a 600W EASHP. That isn't what @Roger440 nor I was talking about.

I haven't lived anywhere with mains gas for several decades, but I do know that currently, oil is very roughly, 10% cheaper than gas and 75% cheaper than electricity, accepting the volatility of prices. If installing an ASHP I would, at the very least, have to replace all my radiators as well. I therefore stick to my original statement, that for me, replacing my old Aga with a new condensing oil boiler is the best option for both installation and running costs. I accept that my option doesn't help with climate change.

This document has details on pages seven and nine that should help you. Your hinges look the same as ours, and if so, are easy to adjust. If it's not possible to achieve the amount of adjustment you need and you have a large pane of glass you can achieve a similar effect by heeling and toeing. It's all in the guide. Modern UPVC Installation Guide.pdf

Very true. I'll be replacing my old oil fired Aga with a new condensing oil boiler. There's no way for us that the sums add up to use an ASHP, for installation costs, or running costs in my old place. If I was forced to go all electric, I would use A2A.

Not actually true. We've used Kinetico in the past as a whole house water softener. The twin cylinder softeners are good because they can soften water using one cylinder while the other cylinder is being regenerated.

So is the left hand connector a 3/4" BSP.

The left hand tap connector looks as though it will fit on the small threaded part of the right hand connector, if the small barbed bit is cut off. Then what do you want?

Also not a sparky, but I always use Piranhna Earth Nuts rather than the earth tags as they take up less room and are a neater solution. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Earthing_Index/Piranhna_Earth_Nuts/index.html

We installed a Diamond DMS2 in 2010 but we chained it down to horizontal angle irons. The local farmer dug out the hole and it wasn't difficult to make it smaller at the bottom than the top. We put a thick concrete slab in the bottom of the hole for it to stand on and it was easy to level it because it was conical.

That's great, sounds like you're doing well. We started our build when I was 59 and it took us 8 years. I was totally exhausted at the end!!

We've got a concrete block retaining wall, about 1.5m high, which is unrendered and has drainage holes at the base. I painted it with Durbocem three years ago and it looks the same now as when I painted it. I was thinking of rendering over the Durbocem, to tidy it up, and painting the render, again with Durbocem. https://andrewscoatings.co.uk/shop/interior-exterior-walls/damp-mould/durbocem/

I'm not sure that is correct. My PH house had a SAP rating of A95 without any renewables and that was in 2017 using SAP 2012 V9.92. This was achieved by having very low U values for the fabric of the building and good airtightness.

I can only bow to your greatness.

Neat job.

Oh no, now you've done it.

That's the stuff I use, excellent. I don't want to put a damper on it, but don't get too excited about tomorrow, things can go wrong .

I used a long nail with the point cut off.

I had one once where you could twist the spring a quarter of a turn and then replace the peg in the base.

Have you capped the ends of all the pipes and ducts?