Gone West

I self installed and commissioned and the BCO wasn't even interested in seeing the paperwork, but that was eight years ago.

Ours was 99% done and all he wanted at that stage was all the certificates. We had a permanent ramp but it wasn't connected to the parking area as the bungalow hadn't been demolished, but he let that go.

I suggested that on pages 14 and 16 but apparently a 30kW oil boiler won't do the job!!

So many people have been drawn into this rabbit hole. No one listened to, no opinions changed. If you don't have the kind of understanding of science needed, then just accept what you are told and act accordingly.

Wasn't the Strangford Lough turbine a rotating one?

1. Boxed in order, small receipts stapled to a sheet of A4. Check receipts thoroughly before putting in box to make sure they have a VAT number and are proper VAT receipts. Each receipt was numbered in order to match the spreadsheet. 2. 385 3. Spreadsheet 4. No stress, my partner did it. 5. No That was back in 2018, things have changed now I think.

Our concrete slab had been down for nearly six years when we tiled. We used BAL flexible tile adhesive and used door threshold expansion strips. No decoupling matting used. We didn't have any problems.

Yes, we achieved 0.47ACH with only the Icynene, combined with the 15mm OSB3 exterior racking, as the airtightness. We didn't use any tapes or membranes in the structure at all. The windows and doors were sealed using two strips of Compriband and the Soudal SWS system.

That is something I looked at when designing my new build. I looked at the Rehau system which used silver plated ducting to kill off any bugs, but it was too expensive. That was sixteen years ago though, so things might have improved.

I think if I lived in the Netherlands I would rather buy from inside the EU.

We had a Genvex combined unit, but I think others on here have used standard Genvex MVHR units. Ours worked well and was straightforward to set up.

It's a shame Zoot that you aren't able to understand that your way of wanting to heat your type of house is 'fundamentally absurdly wasteful'. By letting the rooms cool down over night you would then be using more energy to heat them up again the next day, rather than leaving them heated all the time. If you want to heat a house that way you should move to a more modern house. As I have said before my house is a very similar type of construction to yours and is in a very damp part of the country, it is heated 24/7 and kept at 23C. It's not cheap but a 30kW oil fired Aga does the job.

So why don't you sell it and get a 30kW oil boiler, then you can run it the way you want to heat your house, no problems.

Is that a 3D printed transparent cover on the box? I didn't know you could print clear plastic.

Don't know what it was made from, but they were little honey coloured granules/balls. I liked the smell when I was a kid.

My father used "animal glue" in the 1950s, which he heated up in a metal pot inside a water filled pot. In the 1960s he started using the more modern Cascamite.

Twist the knife, why don't you 😀. I videoed the pour, and saw the concrete was going off before it was laid and there were voids forming. We had the slab tested for voids and several were found, so they took core samples and condemed it. All because they wanted to save money by not having to use a pump. So much easier the second time. Fortunately it didn't cost us a penny, but we did lose a couple of weeks.

Indeed!!

I can't say accurately. All I know is between 22/1/22 and 4/12/25 we used roughly 10800 litres of oil which works out at an average around 7.6 litres a day for hot water and heating using the old Aga which is around 70% efficient. Plan to replace the Aga with a new condensing oil boiler this year.

Is to have a sufficiently large enough heater. The walls in our place are 600mm to 700mm thick stone and when we first moved in we had our 30kW oil fired Aga heating on all the time, in the Spring, to dry it out and warm it up. The house didn't feel comfortable for a long time as the heat was drying the fabric of the building. @SteamyTea explained how much energy is required to do this, and it was substantial. We now have a house that is 23C all the time. You can warm the house up, but it requires a lot of constant expensive heating to do so, and it has to be maintained. Trying to heat one room for a few hours, in your type of house, is pointless.

I used one of those Mcalpine hose connectors and mine had a hole in the top in the centre, which acted as an air break.

When we moved in we had the 4" wall cavity and the loft joist cavity filled with blown mineral fibre insulation. The amount of oil burnt dropped dramatically!! Lucky we did, as the build took eight years not the estimated two to three years.

All I can say is, on my timber frame build, i didn't use any tapes or membranes for airtightness. For windows and doors I used two strips of Combriband and the Soudal SWS foam system on the inside. It achieved an average 0.47 ACH without any tweaks. It just requires care.

As a point of interest, the old bungalow I lived in while building my new self build, had 1/2" T&G boarding on the 18" centre rafters, with the slates nailed directly onto the sarking boards. It was a stick built 4" x 2" timber frame put up in the 1920s as a home for heroes for returning soldiers from WW1. It had lasted 90 years with the original roof.

I have a range of Ego electric garden tools including a small chainsaw and a polesaw. I always use Oregon chains and sharpen them with an Oregon hand file and guide. I also have a sabre saw but I use chainsaws only for tree work and the sabre saw for other jobs. https://egopowerplus.co.uk/products/chainsaws/cs1410e https://www.screwfix.com/p/oregon-4mm-5-32-round-chain-sharpening-file-guide/8566v