Gone West

I dismantled our old 1920s, stick built, timber frame bungalow after we had moved into the new build. Building Control weren't interested, it took us a couple of weeks to do it, after we had had the asbestos removed. We recycled virtually all of it, and it only cost us the price of hiring a concrete crusher for a while. We also took down a couple of single garages, one block built and the other a concrete panel construction. A nearby similar bungalow to ours was knocked down by a local farmer using a telehandler and removed to be burnt at the farm. It took them less than a morning, but I preferred our way of doing it.

I've heard that before, but not been able to find the document. Do you have a link you could share?

Are corrugated stainless steel flexi connectors a better type, or are there any downsides? https://ridgelinetubes.com/flexis/

Same here with large trees. Doesn't make any difference as long as you're not under trees all the time.

Get a Kress, good German engineering.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/magnusson-water-pump-pliers-10-254mm-/1791v

I was told, if using screws, use partially threaded screws with solid stem at the top.

I've only ever seen physical templates which were easy to check. I wouldn't want to rely on a drawing.

When I fitted our undermounted sinks, I used G clips to fix them. http://www.gclip.co.uk/Home.html All that should have been taken care of when it was templated. If there is to be an upstand then minor gaps are covered.

It's an achievement having two in agreement.

Where does it all end??

Over the years we've had several of the Harvey block salt softeners and a Monarch and they all seemed to work without problems. The last one I had to buy for the new build was a Crown, but that was nine years ago. https://scalefreehome.com/harvey-vs-monarch-water-softener-uk/

JSHarris?

Found it. https://web.archive.org/web/20200923185500/http://www.mayfly.eu/2015/09/part-thirty-eight-heating-and-cooling-controls/

I don't remember him doing that, but I do remember he had a Genvex MVHR with a built in A2A heat pump which did heating and cooling through the ventilation.

I would have thought that unless there are no other sources of suitable timber around, your cladding won't particularly attract them. I have two wasps nests in the garden this year in old vole tunnels underground. They are a nuisance, and I keep away from that area as much as possible, but we haven't been stung yet!

We had cedar cladding on our last place and the wasps chewed it, but didn't do any damage. Where we are now they chew any unpainted wood in the garden, but as there's so much around it will take forever to do any damage.

When we fitted our kitchen in 2016, the plinths came with sealing strips to fit to the bottom of the plinths.

I always use a hacksaw and file for things like that. More forgiving.

What is it that makes you believe the second SE rather than the first SE.

There's a chap near us that does robotic scrub clearance. Too far for you though. https://www.facebook.com/p/Nigel-Stevens-Scrub-Clearance-61561133578989/

Exactly. We designed and built our last place to PH standards. It was around 130m2 and was heated with a towel rail in each of the three bathrooms and an EASHP built into the MVHR came on when the weather was very cold. The whole house was kept at 23C 24/7. Very low energy costs.

Our box was remote and designed to be half buried in soil. It was quiet if more than a metre away.

Welcome to the forum. That's what I like, optimism.

I don't know exactly, but I used a compression elbow on the 25mm MDPE coming into the house. It was ok for the three years we lived there. I didn't use a standard stopcock but a lever ball valve.