PeterW

Prime or undercoat ..? Most of the base coats are water based these days - I tend to use this as it dries quick and sands without clogging paper to take any nibs or crap out of it after a couple of hours. http://www.johnstonestrade.com/products/product-display/joncryl-primer-undercoat.aspx

Don't forget the specs and the gloves !!

How much are you carting away ..?? £10k indicates around 60 loads, or 900 odd cubic metres ..! Is there a better way to use some of that on site ..?

I looked at one of these as it came recommended by a local PV installer - never fitted PV so can't say how good though ! http://www.intelligent-immersion.co.uk/

Doh..... Oh yes...

Welcome ..! looks like an interesting project ..! May be worth posting in the design section with the questions - what's the plan for the new larger room..? Extra lounge ..?

Is that in the Scottish Regs as I thought it had come out of Part M in England about the shower provision downstairs ...??

Geberit make a decent flush filler for about £40 - a shower blending valve in the wall and you're done ... Means you can set and forget the temperature too ..!

Just looking at space and may fit two boxes side by side to give me a fighting chance of getting everything in ..! The wall is plenty long enough to get the two in - also works out cheaper than a slightly larger one and having the DNO moan about stuff in their box ..! Did anyone manage to get a free hockey stick free from their DNO ..??

And here it is in all its (smelly) glory ... http://www.ebuild.co.uk/topic/13972-user-review-of-biorock-sewage-treatment-system/

Lots to consider ..!! Sparky is suggesting that we use 16mm 2 core SWA with a 10mm Earth in the same duct - does that sound right ..?? Will terminate the SWA at the back of the board as it runs on the outside of the wall and run the two cores to the switch.

@ProDave do these now need to be metal sub-main boards if they are in the meter box but is not in the house ..? I'm going to go with a standard 80a fused isolator which I assume can be plastic ..?

Thanks Dave Will take that approach !

Just looking at the meter box wiring for WPower and I've got a quick question that I'm prepared to put to the collective experience..! House will be wired with a remote meter box at the boundary, followed by a sub-main providing gate power and lights, and a separate house sub main. Query is - if I put a 100A isolator into the box, which position does it go in..?? I can either put it before the Henley which splits the load into the gate sub-main and the house sub-main, or just on the feed to the house. I guess the safest way is to isolate everything after the meter which means that both boards can be worked on fully isolated, but I've also been told that some companies don't allow this despite being advised that both methods meet 17th Edition. Can one of our resident sparks @Onoff @ProDave make any sense of this...? I want it to be as neat as possible so its laid out prior to install of the meter and there are no issues.

1. Green 2. Black twinwall with yellow marker tape over 3. Yes - but use SWA / Armoured and plan it carefully. 4. No duct needed, just use 20mm MDPE

Thats what is usually easier tbh - you can get face plates to make up BT sockets along side Ethernet and they are pennies.

Which socket ...?? You can patch phone to cat5 by just matching the colours at each end. Most phone and cat5 wall plates have standard punch downs.

Most I've seen are 65mm ..?? If it's only taking a single supply cable then that should be fine as long as the bend radius isn't too tight.

Not a bad price - do you really need 110mm though as that is a very chunky duct ..?

Did you look at the other items..?? A large pile of hardcore at 99p...

Aldi do an entire set for about £6 when they are in stock, or have a quick look in your local Poundland ..! They do a Tommy Walsh range that I'm sure includes a chisel or two and for a quid it's disposable

You would be surprised how quick they fill up - fortnightly service on a site will be needed if there are 3 or 4 people about for most of the week. On the site hut thing we've gone for an 8x6 shed with a worktop across one end which will get moved when the build finishes to a new home in the garden.

Listed as a chimney - anyone want to tell her what it really is..?? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-chimney-pot-/282149379997?hash=item41b169df9d:g:4IMAAOSwZVlXvwdK

I can pretty much guarantee that Cat5E will be around in 10-15 years time, as we are still flood wiring buildings with it ...! If you plan to run HDMI 1080p over Cat5 then your issue will be the balun quality not the wiring - even 4K video is fine for Cat5 as long as you're not trying to send it 300m. What will become prevalent is power over Ethernet - PoE - and for this you really do need a copper conductor, not CCA. This is about the cheapest I've found pure copper Cat5 but I'm happy if someone can find cheaper ..!! http://www.cabling4less.co.uk/products/1941/utp_pvc_cat5.e_reel_-_0.5mm/

So they want the road under traffic control so you can have work done on the pavement ..?? That is a new one on me ..!! Is it on a bend or a particularly narrow road ..?