PeterW

Get a laser level that has a spot point and set it up to aim at the top corner of a window on the neighbours house. Then count down the bricks to an air brick or to the level of the front door threshold. That will give you 75mm x number of bricks that your level is above his house FFL. Spin the level round and then mark off onto a length of timber, measure down to Xmm and you have your FFL.

Looks good - who is the supplier ..?

What's the black duct in the trench with the drainage pipe ..?? Control wires for the sewage tank ..?

Its fine - this refers to gas condensing boilers as their condensate is acidic. MVHR is just water either off the heat exchanger or rainwater.

As the house next door ..!

Go and find a fence post on it that is roughly the right height and arbitrarily mark a datum on it and use that ..!! Unless you get a very picky planning officer who can not only prove yours is wrong and every other house was built correctly (read: highly unlikely) and has the correct equipment (read : total station) then as long as you're within 200mm or so you have nothing to worry about ..! If they have no datum to measure yours, they have no datum to measure anything else .....

Assuming your radon barrier is also the DPM I would go straight across between the two layers of insulation and straight out at DPM level with that - you may want to check your ICF levels anyway as currently you will have to cut down the blocks for every doorway as they are mid height and not level with the top of the block.

Yep - just get some foil tape too .... the self adhesive stuff on the overlaps can be a bit naff

The grey stuff is normally poly - Tubolit, Climaflex etc - so not ideal next to a boiler That is foiled rockwool that is usually used now on steam pipes and process pipes.

Depends what you mean by foam ..?? all of the poly products are good to 85c, you need a nitrile rubber above that so an insultube or Armaflex type product.

Looks like they have an off the shelf solution for mixing rads and UFH http://www.imi-hydronic.com/Handlers/FileDownloaderHandler.ashx?path=%2FProductFiles%2FProducts%2Fdocuments%2FCatalogues%2FEnglish_International%2FPDF_low%2FFloor_control_set_EN_lq.pdf

May be worth doing it with a upvc profile if it's that small ..??

We have about 300 members and I'm sure if we all put £2 each in it would be worth paying you to submit a planning application just so we can watch that .... I had pushback on a set of plans that didn't have a scale bar on them as it was "mandatory" until I pointed out none of the previous 2 weeks worth of validated plans had them on either ...... silence .....

Hi Terry So if I have this correct, you will look at the forecast temperature for the next day and then essentially load the slab with enough "extra" heat to leak into the building from the slab during the day ...? So if you calculate you need 9KWh then you will run the inline water heater for 3 hours on E7 (assuming it's a 3Kw heater at 100% efficient in this scenario) and then this will be released into the building over the day. How will you control the release of the heat and where it is released as surely some rooms will overheat..? Or have I got that all wrong ..??!!

Most of the newer cylinders such as the Telford ones are guaranteed for 25 years and I've seen one or two with a "lifetime" guarantee. The heat pump cylinders also have a 3.3m2 coil so that is pretty big when you consider it against a PHE which on that cylinder doesn't look that big.

There was quite a discussion on ebuild about how running a slab at +1c of the desired air temperature would allow a near perfect control scenario however the bigger question is how much warmer does the water need to be to keep X CuM of concrete at YdegC when the losses from the room are whatever. The logic would be that if you ran the water at 25c then the floor and consequently the room can never be heated to above that by the floor (notwithstanding solar gain etc) The issue being that most UFH manifold mixers don't seem to be able to run this low so your only choice would be to connect the ASHP direct to the floor but that then either loses the ability for you to constantly circulate the floor circuits to even out hot/cold spots and may cause short cycling of the ASHP as the heat load of the room varies and triggers the heat cycle unless you directly link the manifold to the ASHP and risk the potential cooling of the slab as the ASHP initially starts the water heating cycle. One for more thought - and potentially a separate thread ..?

I'd love to see how that works ..!! The oddest bit was that they created an online account which you then have to add your gas/electricity "account" to - looks like it's based on a commercial multi account solution (I think it's actually Oracle at the back end) and I had real issues getting it to validate that the energy account was really mine ..!

If you read note 1 in the regs for Diagram 34 an opening is also a fixed vent so A B and C are applicable in this instance.

Midshires Co-op..? I had had some fun with them as their online systems are a bit archaic and it took them 4 months to actually be able to log in ...

Isn't that now outside the allowed time or have they written asking for an extension ..?? I rang the planning office last week and had a reasonable discussion with the planner - I hope that it means something may be forthcoming at some point in the next week ..!

It's sometimes the simple things ....!!

Look like wedges - fit between the hole drilled and the vent itself to keep in place and possibly tilted at the correct angle ..?

Which wholesaler did you go through as there seems to be some wild variation on price on those ...

+1 to that - I submitted documents around a non material amendment that wasn't a requirement but helped to understand the logic behind the changes.

Oddly that is why most of the new ones don't use the 22mm overflow pipes but work on the spill over principle into the bowl, also giving a visible indication of an issue.