PeterW

How do you get that from the data in that table ..??? I can’t see where it comes from. It’s about 12%, or the margin a general builder would be looking for on a job Yep - larger houses are cheaper per sqm as the prelims and underground drainage costs, services etc are pretty static whatever the size of the house. That table is very generic - worth a read of Spons to get the detail behind it and also the regional variation.

Couple of pallets with a gap in between and a bit of scrap wood to hold the block. Drop it in, cut straight through the gap between the pallets and keep your feet out of the way - even wearing boots ..!!

Not accurate enough for a beam and block floor. £200 gets you a Husky that if you clean it up after you finish and run it on decent two stroke oil and super unleaded will be worth £200 in 6 months time.

Plenty second hand but they do tend to score the bores and lose compression when the incorrect oil and fuel mix is used. You will need one for adjusting any beams and cutting blocks for the floor as you can’t split them as they have to be perfect cuts.

Exactly the same remit I had so as I said, come and have a look

Not in my business ... I’d say a good 75% of people have done it for this reason.... Think you’re a little wide of the mark on this one... what the forum members try and do is give benefit of experience. And there is a lot of it. If you want to see a traditionally built brick and block build, with the foundations, drainage, floor joists, floors, roof structure, insulation, windows, UFH, first and second fix plumbing, boarding, staircase, kitchen, bathroom installations all done by a self builder who has rolled their sleeves up and has done it, just PM me and I’ll send you directions.

Why ..? It’s not going back in ... new pipe, new location. That nice shiny hole saw can cut some new holes in the shelf too..

No bother Do all the stuff up to removing the waste. Clean and cut the blue arrows first, adding the valve to the bottom horizontal pipe. Cut the red arrow as close to the top of the shelf as you can. Remove the shelf, this should then let you put the valve on the red arrowed pipe. Close valves and relax...

I’m sat on a train in the middle of nowhere and was guessing from memory what they added ... given @zoothorn isn’t into the precision engineering that you are, I don’t think 16mm matters here ... ?

Valve adds about 30mm when it’s got pipe in both sides so your clean copper needs to be a good 150mm from the base of the sink to work easily. I would add isolator, pipe, elbow and then swing it back toward the back of the cupboard then upward to the hose tails with another elbow

Perfect ..! It’s where you draw the line that is important and it’s threads like this that reinforce your point about research - it’s why forums like this exist ! There is every type of self builder on here from the newbies fitting a radiator to the serial self builders on their 6th build, yet at some point each will feel like the world is on their shoulders and a partner who’s in it with them - usually up to the knees in mud - is sometimes not the best places to help through either involvement or just lack of knowledge. And it’s lonely ..!! I doubt there is a question on self building that can’t be answered by one of the 1600 or so members who have decades of experience - neither is there anyone on here who wants to see a single person fail in their self build dream. It’s about providing a network for members to call on when they need it, but also giving back where you can, even if it’s to say “don’t do it like I did....”

Ok Turn the water off, open both taps and let the water drain down from the pipes above - may have to open an upstairs tap (if there is one) Put the plug in the sink ... Put a bucket under the white U trap Remove the white trap by undoing the two white nuts (arrowed in blue) You should now see two vertical copper pipes - I expect they are coming up through the bottom of the cabinet.... if so we will cross that bridge in a bit ..! clean the pipes of all crud and solder runs where they are marked at the level of the red arrow. If there are solder runs further down the pipe then you may have to clean lower. cut them one at a time cleanly with the pipe slice then push on the Hep2O valve with it open, then close the valve. You should now be able to remove the cabinet.

Yep that’s the problem !

1. A centre punch will struggle to mark a composite sink 2. If it does, it’s likely to crack it..... Better option is to look to see if you can mount the tap behind the sink instead in the worktop and drill that.

Not wishing to rain on your parade but that pipework is a little green... I would clean the pipes up level with that waste trap with some fine wet and dry and then when they are clean I would cut them off and put the isolators on. Then rebuild with clean pipe and a couple of elbows.

Your issue will be CIL exemption as most councils need 3 years in the property before you can sell it or you are paying CIL retrospectively even if you got the self build exemption. And I think building 3 houses over ten years to get mortgage free is a great idea ... and living in them will let you work out what to do to make the next one even better ....!

+1 to the wet run disk cutter. If you don’t have an easy source of a hose, you can get a pressure tank for them that is a bit like a garden sprayer. You can’t wet cut with an electric one so dust will be just as bad. I’ve got a 9” electric disk cutter and I still prefer my Stihl saw every time.

Not unusual as it is normally listed in the quote. You may be facing a very big bill as that will possibly be classed as mixed waste not inert. Inert can go to quarry reclaim and similar for about £150/20t load, mixed either has to be yard separated or goes to land fill and is about £650/20t load around here. Three questions : - can you get the bricks from it reasonably clean ..? They have a value. - when do you need the site clear..? - do you need a hard standing or driveway..? If you have time and need the stuff onsite for under drives etc, you can hire in a crusher and basically crush the lot. It will crush down quite small but could take a couple of days and is noisy and dusty - best done on a rainy day ..!

Just as a thought... can you not get the digger one weekend and do all the clearing and then the next week get the MoT1 delivered ..? Get the driver to reverse up and empty half the load and then do a tip and run with the rest to spread it down the drive. You’ll have a few high spots to deal with but nothing too bad and no manual shifting with the dumper.

Right... Screwfix order ... pair of pushfit Hep2O 15mm isolators Pair of tectite 1/2” to 15mm adapters pair of Hep2O elbows couple of Hep2O connectors. 2m of copper 15mm pipe with that lot you can remove the old unit and isolate the supplies, shift the pipework to where it’s easy to work on and then reconnect it all. I haven’t got a photo but I’ve just moved a sink tap connection to the right of the bowl so it’s easier to work on - better than having to reach up behind sinks !

Standard 1/2” so that fits direct to those adapters I linked earlier. One of those on each end and it’s push fit heaven .... just make sure the end is a proper cut end and not the raggy end of pipe... Grab a couple of Hep2O elbows too and a coupler and you can always fabricate the correct connections. You don’t need pipe stiffeners if you use copper.

A toilet fill valve needs a minimum pressure to work from memory - that could be your issue.

Got any photos..?

As @Onoff says, Wavin give them a minimum 50 year life. On top of that, they are 30 seconds to fit and check and you can do them one handed and effectively blind. You don't need two hands to fit them and you don't need clearance. What you linked are commonly known as cowboy tap connectors... they remove the nut and connect the flex tail straight on as it "fits".... what it does though is cut into the rubber washer as its not a flat sealing surface and they start leaking after time. I would just use Hep20 isolators and push fit flex tails (or these to convert standard tails to pushfit) and work with whats there as life is much easier if you don't need to be trying to do yoga under a sink to fix a drip...

Have you got a pipe slice ..?? Quickest way is to get a pair of Hep2O isolator valves, cut the pipe with the slice (DO NOT USE A HACKSAW..!!) and then push the valve on. If you aren’t confident in using copper then use Hep2O pipe but you will also need some cutters which is more expense. Quickest way to use copper if it’s easier is to use Hep2O pushfit fittings and copper pipe as you can’t use a hacksaw with pushfit but it’s pretty much guaranteed to be leak free first time.