PeterW

Yep on the GSR website just select LPG Domestic Boiler.

MCS - it is a condition of the grants for ASHP that they can’t cool. Also, to get around having to write new guidance, they adopted the MCS rules for heat pumps under permitted development .. including the line about cooling. Hence why it’s there.

Funny that.. but it’s the reason we don’t spec Vaillant on any jobs .. the last boiler installed from them failed a week into service and the engineer came out and replaced the main board without checking it - he knew the issue…! And then told the client that the new board was only guaranteed 12 months not 6 (or 7..?) years like the rest of the boiler as it was a service part … How to be removed as a supplier from a spec list !!

Drill them all the way through and use a coach bolt or similar and a crap load of some cheap solvent No Nails on the timber for good measure.

Contact an LPG certified plumber to come and do a Landlord inspection and issue you an appropriate safety certificate .. then give to BC…

so have you cleared the top surface off all of the site as you need to get the top soil off and then start your levels. It doesn’t look like clay, and I think your SEng has copy pasted but that would also make me wonder what else they have not done properly….

Why can’t people make things simple ..? Looks like your architect wants about 100mm of blockwork on top of the steel which will be a proper b***h for the brickies. Get them to amend the drawing to put a wall plate on top of the steel with welded restraint tabs on the steel and then put ceiling joists straight on top. Also - what’s with the roof build up as you appear to have multiple joist layers ..??

Don’t appeal - just resubmit with the new details of the site layout. You’ll be waiting 12 months for an appeal

Bifolds ..? What deflection has been specified ..? That’s your first issue with these big steels with welded plates, as is torsion rotation of the centre. They need to be a accurately propped with a slight upward camber then built in correctly. When all masonry has gone off you can remove the props. Also have you got a 200mm cavity or a 100m cavity and 100mm outer leaf as Catnic limit is 165mm cavity. You could also use catnics on the large spans but you would need to reduce the spans by 500mm. Tbh that’s a brick either end and not many people would notice.

I’m looking at how to make the ASHP go into cooling mode as it should have just one -24v contact and I’ve been advised it will work fine but I’ve never tried it !!!

Insulation is far more important, as is properly designed glazing. Heat pumps do not solve energy issues in winter as they essentially become resistance heating when CoPs are considered.

You do not want to be using a house supply for sheep trough ! You need to apply for a field supply as you only pay for the water element and not the assumed sewage processing charge which is based on water consumed. Bit of a gross generalisation given farming is quite tightly controlled. Bigger issues are raw sewage overflows from treatment works when it rains..

Start with the reason for rejection. They have to give you the details, and then work from that. I’ve seen really badly worded rejections where the officer has not correctly understood the plans or information and then clarification has meant it is actually approved at the resubmission.

So was this for a Party Wall Agreement ..?? and was it done using the correct letters etc ..?? Did he come back within 14 days and specifically dispute in writing or did he just try and tell you that you’re doing it wrong ..?? https://www.gov.uk/party-walls-building-works/reaching-agreement-with-neighbours You probably need to read all that first - and if you get solicitors involved then you need to get the right ones who know what they are talking about. You are wrong … Utilities need wayleaves, and you need an easement yourself as your rights are to your existing property, not the new one ! When you split off a plot you need to extend the rights, plus get the land owner permission to grant right of access over the private road. Do you plan to live in this new property or sell it ..??

for what ..??? What exactly is he supposed to be doing ..?? As my surveyor will charge you £120/hr to stand and watch … “I’d like them to work 10-2, but not on Tuesdays when Marjorie plays bridge …..” You don’t want to go there - why are you being nice if you have right of access etc as he will only make your life hell when you’re trying to build etc. It will become no lorries before 9, no deliveries after 3.. he knows the game and he’s playing you at it. Ok do your deeds not give you right of way to your plot ..? And right to lay and maintain services ..? If not.. what happens when the Lane owner sells up and you’re left wanting to dig a hole and the new owner says no..? Did your solicitor not pick this up when you bought the plot ..?? If not - that’s negligence.

Nope - not RAMS. He can only use the PWA to ensure his foundations are secure but he has to appoint a PWA surveyor or request it when you do the PW Agreement. Who owns the access ..? You, him or a 3rd party ..?? If he has no Right Of Way or interest then he cannot tell you how to do this. Do you have a party wall agreement .? And do you have a written agreement from the landowner who owns the Lane / drive to dig it up ..? If so.. crack on .. Heras fencing stops the neighbour - hire a rough arse Irishman as a groundworker and let them handle the neighbour relations … some of us do - but we aren’t contracted to you so the PI doesn’t cover more than general advice. Nosey / Badly informed neighbours are a nightmare - you need to be firm but fair and tbh if you have the permissions in place you crack on. Pandering to retired hasbeens will have you reaching for the gaviscon.

Single skin doesn’t meet building regs ..! And they aren’t tying the wall in - what plans are they following.??! And how are they dealing with that soil stack ..?!

Do you have a photo of what is being requested as I can’t visualize how he’s built a wall without doing that anyway. The footings will be at least 100mm either side of the wall - is he saying he has back filled it and you now want it opened up again..?

Does he own the drive ..? If not, he can take a hike as it’s nothing to do with him. MS (or RAMS to give it the correct title) is only required for HSE purposes, or where you are operating on a property where 3rd parties have significant safety requirements. For example we have to use them in a nursing home environment as it details how access for emergency services will be maintained. I would basically be having a chat saying “we want to get on and build what we have permission for, and this is slowing down progress and protracting the period he will be disturbed for, so please let us get on” Also… make sure your contractor get the signs and barriers correct when they close the road, and insist it is a full PPE site - that means you too. Boots, helmets, hi viz, no exceptions. That will stop him entering site as I can see him trying to interfere here when they do start and you need to make it very clear what the boundaries are from the outset.

As others have said, start with understanding why and for what - your local council planning portal will have a list of what is required for an application so that’s your first port of call. Once you know that you can decide what is next. The quoted value by the architect may be via someone he knows so shop around - as @SarahG says, use local and check what’s needed first as you need someone with local knowledge especially if it is an ecology survey. Also, if you need follow on surveys such as roost identification or emergent bat surveys they can only be done May-September so don’t wait for the planning application if there is a high likelihood of bay activity. Other surveys that tend to be desk based are brownfield site contamination assessments and flood assessments - the latter shouldn’t be £900 as all the information is available on the environment agency website.

Burner efficiency there is little in it - usually 2-3% tops. You get into the vagueness of heat loss and other things which muddy the water along with pressure and flow discussions.

let me check what I’ve got - think my M12 studs are 200mm or thereabouts.

Screws aren’t great for cladding - ring shank nails are the norm. What is behind the batten..?

It won’t - it will make it worse as you’ll be applying pressure to the system in the wrong place. If you want to add a centrifugal duct fan then it needs to be after both intakes and preferably in the long section for maximum flow.

which side of the meter ..???