PeterW

Blue ones used to be owned by GKN... they smell lovely when on a bonfire ... ?

Pallets are not wood - they are industrial waste hence why you can’t burn them .... if you’re in a Clean Air zone, they are effectively a banned substance.

Looks good ..! Another 18 months and they should be finished .....

What’s the rush ..? Do you mean the oversite or are you going to put PIR then another layer of concrete ..?

Think it’s to do with flow rate tbh ..!

think we are at cross purposes here ..! All the underground should be 110mm, only when you do the utility and kitchen is it reduced to 40mm above the slab. Toilets are always 110mm

Weld will be fine - the trick is to drill the hole slightly over the size of the lugs and a quick smear of glue on the pipe with a reasonable amount on the fitting. I use a clamp to hold the ends of the band together for 20 mins before putting the nut and bolt in - leave for an hour or two before you fit the pipes.

What’s the current bulk prices now ..? I saw Calor do their usual pre-cold snap hike a couple of weeks ago.

I don’t think anyone is suggesting just slabs - more to use them as the base of the shelf and then add tiles onto the surface

Round here 900x300 is standard size for Concrete paving at about 50mm thick. Could then just add a nice tile finish to that which would also wipe clean.

That Balco doesn’t get great reviews. mates company do rapid prototyping and use the AnyCubic machines - they have the big ones but also have 3 or 4 of these attached to work stations as they rate them ANYCUBIC I3 MEGA 3D Printer

No, I’m an engineer who ignores 98% of the shite that people put on YouTube. It’s not even a UK video ..!! It’s about as “pro info” as the back of a beer mat. 1/3rd up is irrelevant unless you know all of the forces acting on the frame, and the timber being used. For example, a collar tie of 6x2 over a 8m span, 1/3rd up would fail if the rafters were 8x2 because the tensile force would split the timber on the bolts. But that’s based on me knowing all the information - which the timber frame company does, and you don’t hence why it’s not built to your plans but built to an engineered design. No they didn’t, as per your post about measuring up, the TF company came after the founds were finished - so again, don’t change the story as the 200mm is irrelevant. I’ll make a suggestion - let the builder finish the build, and don’t question anything else. You’ll get a usable extension that he has actually built that works..!

@zoothorn you are now taking the piss and I’ve had enough. This is your first post on the thread Note your words ... Groundworks have been done (+350mm too deep) So your last statement about it being top down lower by 20cm is wrong. You know you started too low, but actually it’s done you a favour. Thats bollocks too - you’ve queried why it’s the shape it is from the point you posted the picture ..! In the words of the great Duncan Bannatyne - I’m out ..! Enjoy the rest of your build.

YES IT DOES..!!!! The basic laws of engineering mean you can’t do it ..!!!! To lift the collar, you need to ensure that the rafters (outer beams) are sufficiently strong enough to resist the bending motion exerted from the weight of the roof. As you want maximum height and want to stay below the ridge line and follow the existing cottage roof line mean that the collar cannot go any higher as the outer beams (rafters) would need to be deeper. As the walls are already low, you would basically lose height at the walls to gain a smaller height increase in the middle. So whilst your builder has said your sketch is good, the timber frame company who have engineered your frame to meet building regulations and also decent safety regulations have actually done it correctly and designed it using engineering principles, not information from the internet.

But you’re saying this doesn’t have the correct ceiling height when you are now saying it does ..??!! Look at the other one - this shows the steps down and I think it’s fine - builder has sorted the “problem” that doesn’t really exist. TBH if you had started at correct floor level then you would be screwed by now anyway as the rooms would both be 2.1m or less.

No - yet again you’re wrong .... This is because it all started 350mm too low, and you drew a collar truss that you thought could be manufactured and what has been made is correct. Lifting it 200mm would mean the top rafters would need to be deeper and it wouldn’t fit under the existing roof. The centre offset is because the extension is not central to the back of the house. To fix that, they have done the correct thing, and dropped one side to make it work otherwise the ridges wouldn’t line up, and it would look shite ... So, your builder and the timber frame company have both done a pretty good job of fixing this. Suggesting to your builder on Monday morning he is wrong and you’ve lost 200mm And want it back may well result in you finding a length of 200x50 (or 8x2...) inserted where the sun doesn’t shine ...

LOOK AT THIS THAT I POSTED..!!!

It’s wrong, mine is right. Mine shows how the trusses are designed to work. I’ve drawn what you’re getting. You’ve drawn what you thought you were getting now please bin the picture.

@zoothorn This is what you are getting. This is what @jamiehamy and @Triassic and @Big Jimbo and @dpmiller have been trying to explain This is how those trusses work... And this is the section through the wall the builder is planning from what you’ve said. Those are drawn from your dimensions that you have provided. If they are wrong then I don’t give two hoots, the principle is the same. I need alcohol...

They are ... left is 200 below the right ... so the collar will be parallel ...

Yes but until you give the exact dimensions of the walls, which you said were 2300 earlier, then I don’t see an issue !!! The builder has already said he will put a step or two inside the wall - given the wall is about 450mm thick, again, this is a really good and neat solution, so again I don’t see an issue !!! There is no predicament. You have a ceiling height of around 2300mm above the current grey Egger floor. You need 2020mm for a standard height door frame. You have an excess of 280mm .... Two steps down, through the wall, really tidy solution ... Now please, beer and strictly ...

same thing, different terminology. collar tie, raised tie, collar truss, coller frame, collar beam... all mean the same thing.

@zoothorn that is a collared truss ..!!! Not sure which bit of this you aren’t getting ..!! Looking at that picture, you’re going to get somewhere around 2300mm ceiling height, with a flat ceiling plus a small slope on the side with the birds mouth cut out. It is definitely not a standard truss - those timbers are much larger than a standard truss and it’s not usual to have that sort of depth on anything “normal”. You can’t, so don’t bother thinking about it. There is no screed strong enough to go that thin, it will crack and break up in weeks.

Errr ... nothing in any regulations to stop you ..? Even in commercial regs ..! Not welding are you ..?? Its a collar truss, as I said. but again, with no picture of the walls or dimensions, not sure what I can add ..??? What is the height of the new walls from the wooden floor to the top of the panels ..?

A blockage of what ..??!! Only thing in a utility should be a sink and a washing machine ..?? A 40mm waste into a 110mm swept elbow there is nothing really that can block ..? You’re not putting food or fat down it, and there is nothing such as wipes or other rubbish in the run ..?? Same with the kitchen - swept up into the floor with a socket in the top, utility tees in at 90 degrees just after the elbow and you’ll have basically 65c water flowing through that whenever your dishwasher or washing machine clears out. Washing machines are great at cleaning out drain runs - a 90c maintenance wash with a bio powder once a month will not only keep the machine clean, it will also sort the drains too ...