PeterW

Just returning to this, have you spoken to the council traffic department as they do offer spaces https://go.walsall.gov.uk/advisory_disabled_carriageway_markings_

OK can now see that it’s glue...!

TBH I would go for a 125mm cavity and use retaining clips on the insulation.

are those boards loose laid ..? Or upside down ..? I can see gaps - that looks like the bottom of the board and the “bottom joint” is flush tight ..??

@rufusmacdoofus give your builders merchant a call and ask for bulk road stone. It should be £12-14 per tonne, you are being quoted by bulk bag looking at those prices I’ve done a quick calculation and it is around 120 cubic metres. That is near enough 250 tonne delivered bulk and compacted at 150mm layers. To do that I would get it in 20 tonne loads, a 5T excavator and a 3T Bomag roller. You will need to get 4 loads per day over 3 days, and spread and level as you go, assuming you can tip at all edges to the site.

Just use the first two and "hide" them under where any bench would be and there will be no problems.

Buy two Caber+ boards.

Most of those I think if he is thinking of running a boiler and UFH and Rad circuit then I would be using a Thermal Store if your water pressure is good.

@zoothorn can you lay the boards side by side and show the difference of the T&G against each other

Does the house have a basement ..? As others have said, that needs structural engineering or you’re going to have half a house that is 15ft nearer the road than it was yesterday ...

Right ..!! Dropped the head, used the feeler gauges to get it level, 50% speed on the first layers and it seems to have sorted it ..!

What settings is he using for PLA..? I keep getting adhesion issues even with tape

Why do you need the permanent live ..? Switched will work

Flow screed isn’t structural. You could move it around and go hardcore/sand/120mm insulation / 100mm concrete and then take the imperfections out using self leveling compound. 150mm oversite is a thick lump too - any reason they specify this as it is only an extension. Is any of it loadbearing ..?

Just a single pole relay would do it. ordinary switch goes though the NC / common on the first pole so switch works as normal. Light is on common. Automation second live feeds the Relay coil and the normally open terminal. Automation then controls the light. downside is if you leave the switch on, the light is always on

Got a neutral in there too ..??

I would guess it’s an Oregon bar (most are even the cheap saws now) chain may be a generic chain though. I use RotaTech now for all my chains as they have lasted longer and hold an edge better.

So as my old instructor would say, he is an expert in bad habits. As I said, PPE, chain brake, sharp chain. Three things they drill into you on any course. Hands Eyes and Ears : gloves, goggles or better a forestry helmet, and a decent set of defenders. Boots and thick trousers - preferably chaps or proper class workwear. Chain brake : if it’s out of your hands, it’s on. Running or not, the chain brake is what stops you lighting up the chain when you pick up the saw. It’s a habit, get used to it. You only ever pick up a saw once without the brake on, it usually scares you enough that you never do it again. Keep it sharp : decent file, decent chain, little and often. Usually when you stop to fill the fuel, give it a sharpen. It’s 5 minutes and easily done. With that one, check the oil when you change the batteries and run the file over the cutters. That chain that came with it will be cheap I expect so buy 2 more decent ones. As soon as it starts to struggle it will start to kick. And that’s when it will bite. The chain may not be sharp enough to cut wood but it will cut flesh. @Russell griffiths anything to add ..??

Same as a petrol saw. Take finger off the trigger and it slows, hit the chain brake and it’s dead stop. I take it your BiL is certified then ..?? Or is he teaching you his way ..?? Chainsaw 101 for you - any time you put that saw down, or stop it, chain brake on. No Exceptions..!

Wonder if he means grouping chambers and running a main sewer line ..? Would be odd - it mirrors how a sewer actually works - but is used for multiple properties normally. Basically you bring all the pipe work from a bathroom/area into one IC then run the outlet from that into a main run with a branch connection. The main run is then a straight run with just branches joining it and has an access at one end for jetting through. Would be odd for a single house tbh

Looking in the wrong country ... https://www.idealista.it/immobile/14974345/ Change of £20k for 20,000sqm

This may help

Glue takes a while and foams up through the edges a little. Leave it alone to set then when it’s hard go over with a scraper. Best setting the first row of boards so they make a perfect edge to work from then the rest you can do in a day. Wedges will stop the boards moving about and give you a small expansion gap too. You may need to make a small block with an off cut so you can knock the boards tight - don’t hit the tongues with a hammer as they will break. Use the “opposite” profile.

Don’t glue the boards down - 6-8mm wedges around the edges to stop it all moving and then fill the gap with cheap acrylic sealant and job done. Pull the wedges when it’s set and fill the gaps.

Caber aren’t flat they have a groove on the “Flat” edge if you look carefully