PeterW

Could always used planed tanalised timber ..? That’s good for 15 years with no coatings so add a couple of coats of microporous satin or gloss and it will be good for 25 years

Welcome ..! From just north of Nottingham ..!

A door will go in a car - just tie the hatch down ..! Just checked my area and there are about 30 being sold on marketplace and gumtree. You could make a ledged and braced door but it wikl cost you £30-40 just in timber.

A standard door is 6’6” or 1982mm. The head frame is normally 25mm like the rest of the frame so your door would need to be 1945mm which is fine giving a 10mm gap at the bottom for carpet/uneaven floors etc. You are referring to a door lining kit and tbh you’re pretty handy with wood tools so I wouldn’t bother unless you need to. This is the sort of thing, £15-20 depending on where you get one. https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Softwood-Internal-Door-Lining-for-686+762mm-Doors-27-5-x-108mm-x-2-01m/p/200351

They aren’t that heavy to be honest. The only side you have to fix firm is the hinge side so put that on the side that is strongest.

But if you raise the deck then it is flush to the edge of the glass again ..?? You say the doors have already been made. What’s the height difference between the bottom of the door cill and the top of the posi joists ..?? Assuming they are not sitting directly on those steels ..??

So I’ve no idea on the dimension you need, but I’m talking of solid doors like were made 80 years ago. This sort of thing. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154148379979 Depending on the size you would add a frame of 4x1 as a lining then plant a stop on it using 1x1/2. Not that difficult to do and you can pack it to fit the opening.

They look like rust marks - possibly there are steel fixings behind that fascia that are getting wet and it’s running down the face.

Seriously ..??!! Seen that for MVHR but never a single fan test. Is this a new build and are you having an air tightness test done as they may do it at the same time as some companies offer it as an add on.

Buy a 1930’s reclaim solid door off Facebook marketplace or similar. They go for £10-30 round me and there are loads. Joy of old doors is you can trim the life out of them as they are solid wood. Leave enough to get a latch barrel in or go old school and fit a rim latch.

Which pump have you got fitted ..? Is it the UPM3 Auto ..? You may need to change the flow curve as they will drop the speed right down if there is no back pressure in the system which a short loop wouldn’t provide.

They don’t do flow tests to be honest - just show the spec sheet !!

Airflow Icon 30 will do 32l/s through a 4” duct. Nice looking unit too. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ADICON30.html

They mean anything round and ring shank don’t pull out. These are a steal.

Has a 28 day strength of 25N/mm so is identical to C25 concrete at 5mm deep. I think it will take a car no issue as it will bond to the concrete sub base.

Buy yourself a Stanley adjustable roof square and the Carpenters Ready Reckoner Carpenter's Metric Roofing Ready Reckoner https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/0854420045/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0IQKFb5SFDT1Q If you are framing a roof out for jack rafters it will be the only two things you need. Unless you get a framing nailer that can fire twist nails then you will be quicker with a hammer and nails. Buy a Kunys leather pouch and a decent 16oz hammer, get some scrap bits of wood and you’ll soon be putting nails in like a pro. Toolstation ring shank galvanised nails are very good quality and not expensive either.

Not sure why the flush finish would be an issue as you just use adjustable legs to get the decking in line with the glazing ..?? When you say some has been done, what do you mean..?? Is all the deck down with insulation ..?? Or is some of the felt / membrane / GRP done ..?? Spray foam won’t be cheap and I don’t think will resolve your issues.

Multipanel as per those links is ply core with a hard surface. Just ordered some 600x2400 hydrolock panels from the heritage range and they were £62+VAT. Trims and joins between £6 and £11 +VAT depending on the ones used.

Yep that should fit ..! Are there any washers in the bar ..?? Or a small bag with a couple of washers with filters on ..?

Wonder what is leaking. They are pretty standard units and don’t tend to leak unless there is a crack in the casting. Hopefully not one in the pipe itself ..! Can be capped off or a new bar fitted - if you don’t use it that much then this would probably fit. Jetcloud 6226129485304 Chrome Modern Thermostaic Bar Mixer Anti Scald Exposed Bottom Outlet Tap for 1/2" Shower Hose Brass Diverter Valve https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07KR25G6D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tqDKFbXZ3WHJ2

Actually it was @Nickfromwales... And it probably leaks less than your walk on glazing ....

Nope it’s a beast of a 500 litre thermal store !!

House insurance got emergency cover on it ..?? Main stopcock is as you walk in directly in front of you about a foot up from the floor.

Good to hear and always being safe and checking. Was it a quick turnaround ..?

Do not use MVHR to ventilate the void ..!! You will pull moisture in rather than remove it ..! I think you need to detail a moisture barrier exceptionally well and would even consider putting some sort of liquid membrane on the bottom of the deck to stop any possibility of moisture getting into the deck boards. This needs to be very tightly detailed - consider some of the Intella membranes and the use of the correct tapes. If you are using MVHR then air tightness detailing should be part of your approach regardless.