PeterW

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PeterW last won the day on September 19

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About PeterW

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  1. Is the store part of the existing property boundary ..?? i.e. has it been used as ancillary to the current dwelling as a store..? If so, it is deemed to be part of the existing dwelling house and any conversion would be at 20% VAT not 5% VAT. The lower rate only applies for conversion from one building type to another (office to residential etc Also, it’s highly unlikely you will get PP for the second 1 bed dwelling on it’s own as the council won’t see it as such. You won’t get any refund under self build VAT as you won’t qualify, and your mortgage funder is unlikely to fund the second build as it would be commercial. Unless you must keep the store, I would bulldoze the lot and start again.
  2. Got LXT batteries.?? https://www.cnspowertools.co.uk/makita-dub183z-18v-cordless-blower-body-only
  3. Not sure you can install a septic tank these days, has to be a packaged treatment plant. The issue with “flow” is one of capacity as the new ones are multi chamber and that is why they need pumping out - the primary settlement chamber cannot overflow into the secondary chambers otherwise they stop working efficiently. The bigger issue with treatment plants that they don’t tell you is lack of flow. If they don’t have a continuous flow, nitrate levels can build up in the final stages if the flow is too low - some recirculate the water from the outflow tank to stop this happening back to the start of the process (Biodisc have this as an option). This is needed if the house is not permanently occupied or has varying usage.
  4. That isn’t correct. VAT at 5% is only on certain types of conversion. If it is a building that has been part of another house such as a garage, then it is 20% VAT. The rules are not as simple as they appear ..!
  5. It’s fine to link them as I have installed the AICO one - how big is the cupboard though ..?
  6. Not a stupid question. if you are paying the builder for labour and materials then he should zero rate everything to you. So if your build consisted of £50k labour and £100k ex VAT materials, you would pay him £100k. He would pay £120k for the materials (£100k plus 20% VAT) and then he would reclaim the £20k on his VAT return. if you purchase the materials for him, you would pay the £120k out but then reclaim it at the end. In that instance you would reclaim the £20k. If it’s supply and fit by a VAT registered trader they MUST zero rate the whole invoice otherwise it cannot be reclaimed.
  7. Frost won’t be an issue but your water company may not be happy as they may insist on it being 6-700mm. The site survey from the utility company should show that cable anyway - it seems very shallow for electric ..?
  8. You can fit whole house surge protectors in domestic CUs - they aren’t that expensive at ~£120 or so. Have to get the right one for the installation though as they vary by supply type.
  9. So arguably you’re looking at £750-800k with everything, as a top line. Assuming you are prepared to either head north east into Suffolk or Norfolk, or stretch the commute to hit the Leicestershire / Rutland / Warwickshire area (that is all <1 hr to London by rail) then you may be able to get what you want. £200k for a plot gets you something reasonable in those areas, but it won’t be huge. Add in £50k for fees / designs / prelims etc, and you have £500k as a budget to build. That will get you into the 230-275sqm floor space which is ok for 6 bed, but taking into consideration you want modern then it may be pushing your budget over the £2000/sqm as I expect you will be looking at a lot of glazing etc. Those are expensive things to buy, they are also very divisive when it comes to planners ..!! A modernist box is marmite - some will allow, and some will not under any circumstances, and you may need to spend on planning consultants to get what you want.
  10. Welcome ..! So lets start with location you want to build in, and what equity you have in any current house or savings etc. That will probably be the biggest factor in affordability. If you’re in Weybridge rather than Wrexham, land will be considerably more expensive. Start with a rule of thumb that any BS or lender won’t go above 80% LTV for plot and build. Take a conservative 3 x joint income as a value of max mortgage, and add that to the equity. Then subtract a 1/3rd for land, and divide the rest by £1500.. you now have a very rough idea of what size house you are building .... So say you have £75k equity and joint income of £80k. Your total would be £315k, plot budget of £105k, build budget of £210k giving a house of 143sqm. That’s about the size of your average developer 4 bed box, and assumes you’re nowhere in the south east of the U.K. Start adding lots of other factors such as difficult sites, slopes, access, long utility connections and that £1500 goes up, your available size goes down. It’s all about location to start with, and how much you’re prepared to do yourself.
  11. Telehandler will do that easily. A 10m will be fine as it will get over the scaffold. A 7m will struggle. If he really insists on a crane then an iron fairy will do that without a problem - that’s a truck mount crane with a 10m boom.
  12. Yep that’s the point of leaving the gaps and also allows it to swell and not bend
  13. yep it’s fine. just done a small sarked roof today - boards are 95x20mm rough sawn tanalised and laid with a 3mm gap between the boards. You need counter battens though unless he’s nailing onto the boards at which point I think they need to be 25mm ..?
  14. Always drill after. Conduit cast in during a point can get bent or moved and then you need to re-drill anyway. The other issue is always light placement - until you know what the outside looks like, you may want to move the outside lights about so that is much easier to do if you haven’t been constrained by conduits already installed. 32mm dry core diamond bits aren’t expensive for what you get and can be used with an ordinary SDS drill. That is more than adequate to get most services into a house and can be sleeved with waste pipe and sealed without too much issue. 20mm conduit ideally needs a 22mm SDS bit but is easily drilled with a standard bit.
  15. Can just see one here in the top right - 4.8m up mounted into the front of a false chimney breast. Just think before you finish though how you will adjust it to balance it ....