Pocster

Some of your photos should be banned

Decided to try the silicone on the tiles . A test run . Choose a corner where the sink is going , completely unnecessary but a good test . So just a vertical line ontop the grout in the corner Think I did ok

Actually it’s the other corner - typically!!

It’s tight - maybe only 3mm

Thanks to everyone for really good input ! So first will try simply the foam strip jammed up under the lip . I’ll then stick the hose facing at it and blast it . Be nice if it worked . Underground houses are (expletive deleted)ing dogs when your architect doesn’t know and the ‘professional roofers’ do the worst job you’ve ever seen . ?

Yeah - it’s also a good plan Remember the felt is just a protective layer . The firm who did the roof properly said I didn’t need it . It’s just to protect the bituminous layer . But is ct1 really that good outdoors in all weathers forever ??

Another good plan . The black is structural silicone as recommended by the glazing firm .

3mm maybe 5mm

What a bloody good idea ? ordered !

Ordered! ?

Ct1 ? It solves all the worlds problems . Or the stuff @joe90 mentioned .

Yes . Felt over top of upstand also . I seem to recall concrete was deeper at the corner in question meaning of course up stand even shallower ..

Yeah . I ain’t got the height . Could just be silicone ( or whatever ) pushed up under that edge . Could smear it into a down ward curve I.e so it bonds back onto the asphalt....???

Here you go

The felt runs up the upstand and over the top . Then it’s the silicone , then the frame . As I said I assume a gap in the silicone at this point .

Demoing with cardboard. Perhaps some kind of collar ? . Maybe just stick some plastic beading to the corner of the frame - anything to deflect water way .... None of this would be visible once all complete

Yeah I know . But what bodge should I do ...... ????

Yeah . I read your post 3 times . I get your point and indeed water likes to travel where it shouldn’t. I can barely get a finger under that lip - but there is a gap . So I do think there’s a gap in the silicone under the frame - which of course is impossible to access . So wind pushing the surface water back at that corner is just enough to get it over the upstand and find the gap . Floor level ( when finished ) is level with the glass - so with stilted tiles all around it the problem could disappear. But I’d rather fix and know it’s done . Could just ‘stick’ polythene sheet to the frame at that edge . Not stuck to the asphalt- so water doesn’t get trapped . Not sure .....

problems not the roof . It’s the shallowness of the upstand and presumably a ‘gap’ in the silicone on the frame to upstand

Yeah the short upstand - I had no choice . Getting the glass out easy . Getting the metal frame off ... erm , structural silicon around all 4 sides and screwed down . I can’t see it coming off without destroying the asphalt. It’s quite possible that as the frame was laid silicone could of squeezed out into the outer edge of the T frame underneath . If ‘filling’ the void is a bad idea and removal is not really a good plan that just leaves ... Deflection ???

It’s a plan . That’s the problem though isn’t it . I can’t see what I’m doing . I could seal round the entire frame not just the front . Worried I could create a void that water runs into .... What about some form of deflection ? Like ‘gluing’ a lip to the base - making a ramp that runs away from the window ...

Could work .

Here was my plan to turn a dog into a unicorn ...

It is siliconed ontop . If I pour water all over the glass I.e running off it - no leak .

That better than ct1 for this ? Remember I need to get it up and under that tiny lip at the front . Old photo - before concrete pour then water proof layer then asphalt. Window on the right - you can see it’s a real shallow upstand after all that goes on .