Pocster

Not too mention the language that’s used when installing such as “for (expletive deleted)s sake why doesn’t that fit “ ” why the (expletive deleted) is that imperial and that metric “ ” bollocks - that’s wrong “ ” shit - why’s there water on the floor “ ” bastard “

@Thorfun Apart from concealed hep20 fitting . Presume there’s another behind the vertical waste stack ? I in those circumstances let the hep20 pipe bend round assuming it’s not too tight to eliminate joints and potentially leaks ( though Hep2o is awesome and I’d doubt a leak ever )

Nothing wrong with that . Just make sure you have backer board ( or whatever ) to hand , tiles and the final fitting . Because if you need to adjust the depth after it’s tiled it’s a pig 🐷

Sorry - mis interpreted the title - thought it was a request .

Tuff tiles - in a garage / dungeon setting . Easy to wipe down I bet you dirty (expletive deleted)er 😉

I know . I know ! I’ve liked and thank’d ffs !

Nothing . You were just going on about ‘ proper ‘ way of noggins which suggests fixing to the wall is an issue - which it isn’t . My post was for clarification…

Guys , problem isn’t fitting to the wall - problem is a decent fitting off the unit .

Ah well ! Now I could smash the wall out and do that - not an issue - just sounds like work .

I got vertical timber studs so it shouldn’t be an issue to find a fixing . Its the shitty cardboard type back that pisses me off . As my kitchen runs into the lounge it would require osb / ply across the entire wall ( assuming I like it level )

If I cut that pipe short . Weld a 135 . Go along a bit 🙄 ; then do another 135 into a 135 - that’ll work yeah ? ( because I haven’t got a (expletive deleted)ing clue )

I could indeed - that’s a good plan . I did forget to mention it’s a studded wall - so naturally I want to fix to that not pb .

Yeah it’s a grey water macerator . Unit on left is the sink where macerator has to go . Next to that on the right will be washing machine . As you can see my waste pipe angle is too tight - by the time I get inside the sink unit I’ll be on the floor . You’re not meant to use 90’s ( I can cut that 135 off the end if need be ) . Can’t reposition vertical pipe due to wall and lesser ceiling height . Just stick a 90 where that 135 is and hope for best ?

If there’s a timber there 🙄😊

You mean?

I could but it's still the cardboard back screwed to the batton. Not much strength there - the back of unit would flex.

These are low units. What you suggest is their recommendation for tall units - which I do have. My issue with those is I've only got about 5mm from unit top to ceiling.

Yeah I know . But I’m happier if all bolted to the wall .

Instructions suggest cutting a hole in the ‘cardboard’ back and inserting a L bracket . Seems a bit crap too me . Really want to screw the unit through the back direct to wall . But as back is cardboard - no good . How do I fix this rock solid to the wall ? . This is a corner unit so obviously could fit if the adjacent wall - but what about a row of floor units ??

Very similar to my heat miser wiring - not tricky

That’s what I would think . But your system is undoubtedly different setup to mine .

Yeah - got you . My ASHP operates ( when it needs ) rather than I control it . ufh ( via uvc and ASHP ) it is determined by flow I.e when relevant pump is on for which ever manifold . So I don’t control ASHP directly - all off the ufh pump to effectively operate uvc / ASHP .

Just the manifold pump request then ?

Hmmmm Mines like the other way round . Actuator opens which turns on pump which inturn requests ASHP if needed .

Motorised actuators . ( salus ) Simple control box for them ( heat miser ) . WiFi type relays hooked into that . You can then easily add to whatever HA you need later Or ignore 😊