MortarThePoint

We have a lower level roof (half flat half pitched) that the designer has used JHI masonry hangers to attach to the wall at one end (circled below). The wall is already built and I was wondering if people thought cutting a masonry joist hanger in to an existing wall is harder than using a ledger board and timber joist hangers?

I do like this product. What spacing did you use for the downpipe clips? With an offset bend did your downpipe become: 112 bend pipe 112 bend clip pipe + clip half way down socket pipe + clip half way down shoe

Hot water: Part L requires insulation. If the water is 38C warmer than ambient then a 22mm pipe losses heat at 53W/m [link]. The heat capacity of water is 4.2KJ/KgC. The volume is 0.38l/m giving 0.38kg/m. That will therefore cool at a rate of 53J/sm / (4200 J/KgC * 0.38kg/m) = 0.033C/s or 2C/min. The temperature difference half life will be something like LN(2) / (0.033/38) = 800s about 13minutes. Table 5 of https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/697525/DBSCG_secure.pdf Table 6.1.1 of http://www.timsa.org.uk/TIMSAHVACGuidance.pdf Insulated to achieve the 9W/m figure would slow the heat loss to about 0.33C/min. The temperature difference half life will be 13*53/9 = 77minutes of 1.25hours. I wonder if that's worth it for the family bathroom where chances are all activity happens in a flurry and then nothing for many hours. Probably makes sense for a downstairs loo where the usage is more constant with the tap going about once an hour or more (depends who's cooking). Cold water: Is this a building regulations requirement or guided by good practice?

Am I imagining it or did I read somewhere that hot and cold water pipes should be insulated even within the building's insulated envelope? I hope I did ?

Cool. I follow now, 7kW peak charge current but many kWh capacity. Still now worries charging overnight.

Nice quick charge then. What's your EV then, at Twizy?

I know I'll have to talk them out of it though ?

I got 30 panels for £11 each for just the panels. You can easily find clips for around a pound and I knew someone with an old pallet of feet that I paid £50 for. They charged £100 for delivery as it was a fair way. Tip on collecting as I have done it as well. I hired a luton van and they shifted in transit causing the door to jam. That was fun sort in the dark at 10pm.

Just wondering what sort of charge time is that going to make for?

The Architect's specified 3:1:12 mortar for the chimney above eave level. So that's 3 parts white cement, 1 part hydraulic lime and 12 parts sharp sand. For the rest of the exterior walls we have used a lime mortar (so no cement) and we'll therefore be transitioning, so fingers crossed the changeover won't be too noticeable. Any tips welcome on that. One question I have is around admixtures (aka feb). Brickies love the feb, but I presume that's not a good idea with a 3:1:12 mix as the lime should be the plasticiser or is it fine to add feb?

I had cause to do this again this week and I quite enjoy it now. The way I do it is below for anyone who is interested. In steps 1 and 2, I clamp another piece of 4x2 along side to provide more surface for the circular saw to ride on and stay square. In step 3, I clamp a speed square on to the timber and follow that, it's actually 30mm away from the cut as that is the gap between my saw's blade and edge of its base. Step 4 is just some easy clean up with a chisel. My circular saw's blade isn't quite deep enough to cut half way in steps 1 and 2 hence the way it is shown. Important to remember to adjust the blade between steps 2 and 3.

I'm looking at a total liquid screed thickness of 40mm, but there is no insulation between that and 50mm of concrete so I expect that is OK. Would you still be nervous?

Thanks Craig, can you recommend any suppliers?

One of the £26k quotes is for fully painted, but not so keen on their design unfortunately and 8 weeks is a long time to wait to check a sample is OK as they don't have an example of the flush casement design we are after.

We've specified flush casement timber windows and are pulling our hair out. I think normally we'd be touring various companies and looking at their options and buying with the confidence of having seen the windows. Covid19 makes that difficult. We've ended up with suppliers that seem to fit in to two categories, those that compete by having a good product at a good price and those that have a good product with a high price but a major sales and support offering. The price difference seems to be around £26k vs >£40k. One of the companies we are most drawn to has a really nice looking product, but they don't supply them paint finished, only supply them primer coated, treated or bare. Has anyone had a go at painting just primered windows? I can see the exterior surface and interior surface may be easy enough, but painting in with the mechanism seems like a nightmare. There would be a lot of painting to get done.

Without the packer I can pull it down if I hang on it

I've only got a 2m straight edge, but I'll give it a try. I'm not clear how the remedy would change though as it's the same net effect isn't it.

Oops wrong thread, sorry

I have a supporting wall close to midspan (62%) and all the trusses look to be resting on it well except for one. This one is about 1mm above and deflects down onto the wallplate if I hang my weight from it. In the photo I've slipped a piece of galvanised steel between the two. Is this a good idea or should I do something else?

I have a supporting wall close to midspan (62%) and all the trusses look to be resting on it well except for one. This one is about 1mm above and deflects down onto the wallplate if I hang my weight from it. In the photo I've slipped a piece of galvanised steel between the two. Is this a good idea or should I do something else?

? I have got one, hand for knocking the noggins in

I did wonder about hiring a Paslode, but screws are petty easy and only dropped one noggin on my face so far.

I've heard of people using construction adhesive with a flexible component in order to stop squeaks. That's the only reason I'd consider it. As you say it doesn't have to be pretty, but I really want to avoid squeaks.

Interesting. I had wondered if anyone ever glues and screws noggins.

I was wondering about your approach to framing (stud partitions, joists, noggins etc). I haven't tried them, but GoldScrew Plus look interesting as they have the drillbit like feature that Spax have. No idea if it really makes a difference or is just marketing.