MortarThePoint

It won't fold up without all the little cuts. I won't cut the brim of the hat of course as the chimney isn't round. Around the liner is Leca fill which should support the lead. I could lay slate across the cavity to support the lead. I could also use slate on top of the Leca. Nearest supplier of Code 4 lead at this width that I have found is ~40 miles away unfortunately. Really, I'd rather not have the lead and use a couple of layers of lead and a stiff M12 type mix. Nobody has indicated that I can do that though.

A bit like this ?

That sounds simple enough

I don't understand, the upstand is about 100mm high

But the circular upstand needs to be welded on and I don't have oxyacetylene torch etc

@epsilonGreedy You have to tuck the upstand inside the flue liner in severe weather areas, elsewhere you can have it on the outside. @PeterW needs to be tomorrow, last two days for the bricky now and he's kept me waiting a month for them. The hard bit is making the circular upstand. If it wasn't for that it would be easy. Other trays already made so it's only the very top one that's a concern.

I not keen on using plastic. It would probably be fine die to Isokern but doesn't feel right. I don't have the lead for tomorrow. I could pick it up but I can't weld it. It's 1200x1050 with a cavity

Plastic dpc?

@Declan52 sorry to call you out, but do you have any thoughts on this as it's stressing me out.

For the chimney on the side wall we had a low level aluminium tray below wall plate and then a Code 4 lead tray higher up to coincide with the back gutter. The chimney is continuing upwards another ~2.5m tomorrow and will hopefully get finished. This takes my focus to the topmost DPC at which I appear to have some options (extract from technical manual below). Fabricating a lead tray is probably not possible now if it needs an upstand as time is too short. The mortar being used for the flaunching will be very stiff (cement 1:3 sharp sand). This chimney has a cavity wall (diagram below). I'd happily incorporate two courses of solid blue engineering bricks just below the corbels, but I don't see how that would help stop damp going down the cavity. What about slate incorporated into the flaunching?

I'd recommend Cambridge Crane hire as I used them. A day was around the £500 mark I think. Your heaviest truss (~1165kg) would be a nightmare with a telehandler. I arranged the crane to arrive before the trusses (two lorries in my case) and we got them all on. Would have been a miserable day doing it by telehandler and was a fun day with the right tool for the job. You have to weigh up the saving vs the risk and cost of fixing a disaster. I hired a 17m telehandler to fit some steels (400kg each) and chickened out at the last minute swapping to a crane. The plant guys were cool about it and swapped to a smaller machine that I needed to move blocks and the crane driver had a very early start to his weekend. There have been few times I have been so relieved to spend ~£500. It's a weight off when you make the decision like that. Have a hard think about whether there is anything else you could use the crane for. We lifted up lintels and sheets of plywood which saved a lot of effort. With more planning, I could have done more too (flooring chipboard, plasterboard...). I went with Pasquill. They said the only treatment offered is for longhorn beetle which is an issue near Surrey I believe. I wanted some form of damp treatment, but the companies I spoke to didn't offer it.

That looks like a surround that has then been filled in

Years back I bought a Makita DHP481 which is a very good combi drill, but I find myself preferring to use assorted cheap tools. I was recently drilling a load of holes through wall plate and was using a countersunk wood bit, 210mm 6mm SDS bit and a T30 Torx bit. Each one was in a separate supermarket tool each of which cost 1/8 of the combi drill and each in their own way did a better job. I don't think they would survive the abuse or workload of a pro, but I've been impressed by their performance. They are also much lighter which is a huge benefit on a long day. The lighter weight batteries don't last as long, but then each tool is doing less. Hoping this doesn't prompt it to die, but I think my favourite is the Parkside PDSSA 20-LI A1 impact driver. I stripped a 300m2 cold store with it (not including the major steels) as well as putting it to good use on woodscrews. It's not brushless so lots of sparking inside but it's served me well to date.

I have mixed feelings about Banggood. They have some good stuff at cheap prices but goodness me they have some woeful stuff too. I spend too long looking at their emails as well.

I suspect it's called a One Hand Saw because that's how many you have left after using it

Convinced I would end up swapping too if I didn't have shoes What about Gully surrounds

I know opinions vary, but I am keen to use shoes at the bottom of the downpipes because I actually like the look as well as the functional benefits they offer (interesting link). I therefore expect we'll be using inline bottle gullies with a grating under each downpipe shoe. Below is a diagram of the setup. That leaves me with some questions: I presume the rectangular ones are for when you also have a tap above the gully, or an outlet from a kitchen sink for example? Concrete gully surrounds seem like a problem waiting to happen as if the gully blocks the surround will fill up and expose the wall to standing water. They can add to the look and would stop leaves etc being blown onto the gully's grate. What am I missing here? Can you get 4 sided gully surrounds?

I spoke to Simpson StrongTie and they said the masonry application is still possible, but they found it raised more questions than it was worth and they preferred it to involve an Engineer. For example worries that people may bolt them into a bed rather than mid block/brick.

Interestingly, the SAE hangers are not listed on the "Timber to Masonry Hangers" page of the Simpson StrongTie website. The SAE page and datasheet and don't mention masonry except for one picture. The datasheet was updated on 10 March 2021!

Yes I saw that type when looking just now and that doesn't have any tabs that tuck in. I like the sound of the hybrid approach you described as that seems like the best of both worlds. The SWL (probably 2.2kN aka 220kg) isn't particularly good which is a shame [datasheet]. The tuck in type have about 3x the SWL [their datasheet].

That sounds good. Do you know of any brands that make that type to help me find them? They sound like they are designed to avoid the need for mortar or resin with the tab that tucks into the brickwork.

Drilling holes and using Rawlbolts feels like an easier process.

Yes, I'd have to cut out some bed and then mortar the hanger in which doesn't sound much fun

That's prior to loading, they can be built in during construction. The wall extends a storey higher.

This is what I mean by a ledger board: