Thorfun

I spoke to someone in a new build the other day and their entire downstairs engineered wood had to be redone as it was laid too soon after the screed. so could the concrete slab in the OPs case still have too high a moisture content and cause this?

you can't! but don't worry the liquid screed won't get through the staple holes. here's a photos of ours just staple through the dpm and in to the insulation. so simple I did all ours myself with my wife on the stapler most of the time.

Yep. Single phase. I do have a 3-phase supply but running the house on a single phase so solar is all single phase so I don’t have to worry about net metering etc.

so that heats at 1am and then tops up during the day with minimal energy input? I guess I need to heat the water and then see the energy usage to maintain it at 48°C during the day/night. I might give that a go tomorrow.

actually, the tank is connected to our DHW manifold but it goes no further. the pipes connecting to said manifold are not currently lagged (they will be but it's a work in progress) so I guess some heat loss could be out of the water sitting in those copper pipes?

not used any. not got any taps or anything fitted. just got the tank temp to 48°C and turned ASHP off as an experiment! not got a clue where it's taken tbh. the data is from the Mitsubishi FT6 controller. don't know and don't know! sorry. 😞

as per the title. yesterday I got the hot water in our tank up to 48°C-ish. over the next 21hrs it dropped approx. 10°C. to me that sounds pretty good but just wondering what others thought or what other UVCs lose? it's a Mitsubishi pre plumbed Ecodan UVC 300l

Sadly my posi joists aren’t designed to take that much weight as discussed previously in this thread. I know better for next time (if there is a next time!) to ask for them to be designed to take a higher load. The resilient bars are for different rooms to the MF dropped ceiling. anyway, I’ve ordered the ESP MF and Resilient bars. I’m sure they’ll be fine.

Isover do a 32 glass wool batt which was cheaper than Frametherm when we bought ours.

Thanks @nod would the ESP resilient bar do the same job as the Gyproc RB1 too?

so a bit more deep diving into the details and it looks like the Gyproc stuff seems a little superior as their yield strength is 210N/mm2 (https://www.british-gypsum.com/documents/declaration-performance-dop/british-gypsum-dop-m100-uk-gypframe-metal-profiles.pdf) but the ESP Flexural tensile strength (which I presume is the same thing and the units are the same!) is 140N/mm2 (https://www.espdrywall.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/ELS8.pdf) that seals it for me I think considering the quantities I'm ordering.

I'm a sucker so I bought 14AWG cable in 2 core and 4 core. these to be precise https://www.fscables.com/14awg-speaker-cables/c-183.html. I had some quite long runs so wanted to try and maintain as good a signal as possible so figured the 14AWG was worth a punt. like @joth I liked the purple colour and it's easily differentiable with the thousands of other cables running to my comms room!

actually, I'm now worried @Nickfromwales is going to call me a tight ar$e again as the quantities I'm buying I'll probably end up saving about £60! I'm wondering if it's worth the ignominy.

@nod or anyone else, has anyone used ESP metal frame please? I need to put an order in tomorrow for this stuff and the ESP stuff is between 25% the price of Gyproc. they even name their components in a similar fashion to Gyproc so I'm wondering if they just come out of the same factory! e.g Gyproc wall channel is GL8 and ESP's is ELS8 GL1 or ELS1 GL12 or ELS12

i think @Nickfromwales was talking about the AAVs needing to be accessible rather than the soil pipe? could this possibly be a crossed-wires situation?

yep. it's a very fair point thank you. consider it done!

so wise

thanks. is it still worthwhile removing the AAVs and putting a cap on? could the gale that blows through after the test cause any sort of damage to the AAVs?

Qq on AAVs (maybe @Nickfromwales is best to answer?). Do I really need to remove them and cap the pipes for the Airtightness test? Aren’t they valves? so aren’t they closed until air is required? How do they behave when the internal air pressure of the house is reduced? Do they stay shut or open up as the air pressure in the pipe is higher than in the house once it’s depressurised?

and some spiders by the looks of it

outside lighting hasn't been fitted yet. the cables are dangling inside waiting to be put through the wall but I'll be taping up any penetrations made by them. I've not done the 32mm/40mm waste yet but all the exposed 110mm pipes they'll be going in to will be capped off. we're even going to put the keys in the locks of the doors and windows to reduce any potential risk of leakage through them! 🤣

no internal perimeter drain. 👍

they're not fitted yet. I make her go directly into the soil pipe

the loft is internal to the airtight layer services come in to the basement and I filled those holes with FM330 today all windows and doors fitted with FM330 and compriband and sealed with Tescon Profil. we've certainly done belt and braces. just hope it's good enough.

not sure that's the point! but I'll ask mine....I'll say I'm asking for a mate...I'm sure he'll believe that