Thorfun

how do they differ? is it the way they spread? mix? go off? smell?

probably a question for @nod but happy for anyone to chime in! I asked my plasterer what plaster he wants me to buy and he said he doesn't mind. either board-finish or multi-finish. he said they're both pretty much the same product but board-finish is made specifically for plasterboard. he then went on to say that both do the same thing though so either or is perfect. that means it's down to me to make the decision! F***!! which means I need help from the forum. we're having plasterboard on to our timber frame. which do I go for? or does it really not matter? if it doesn't matter why the **** do they make different types? I guess it's just to confuse idiots like me. can anyone tell me the difference between the two as well? just out of curiosity really. if no one responds then as @pocster and @Nickfromwales know that I'm a bit of a tight-arse sometimes so I'll just go for the cheapest. 🙄 🤣

according to my sparky and chippy there just isn't space to fit a back box in the Eclisse metal frames and even though you could potential run a cable in a gap we all thought that the risk of it catching on the door and causing issues was too high to justify it. so we just built out the timber wall to hold standard doors instead. still have one Eclisse pocket door though as I said. I just fitted the header wall above the door today as a matter of fact. 🙂

we had 3 pocket doors designed. in the end we converted 2 of them to normal doors as they were in an en-suite and we discovered that we couldn't get the electrics to the towel rail we wanted to hang on the back of the frame nor could we put the light switch for the bathroom on the side we wanted. so, just be aware that you won't be able to fit light sockets or cable runs safely within the frame. and it may be that you only need good quality parts and fixings but the Eclisse pocket doors are so simple to put up (took my carpenter and me about 30 minutes tops) that you need to consider the labour costs of NOT using a kit and calculate if it's still worth not using a kit.

if the pipework is hidden within a cupboard/unit I wonder if it's worth just sticking with the simplicity of hep2o to the taps rather than covering to copper and having to faff about with solder/compression? 🤔

+1. I don't see those things pointed out as issues at all. I think it looks really nice.

CIL exemption is the priority as far as I care! don't do ANYTHING until you have that. all the rest can kind of fall in to place as you move through the process. also the rest of the stuff depends on how you're building, who's doing the work etc. as if you're having a main contractor then a lot of that stuff is down to them to sort out. best of luck and I've always thought demo and rebuild is the best way as you can build what you want rather than just make good what's already there as it's never exactly what you want as if it was you wouldn't need to renovate it. 😉

as I get ready for the plastering I have a question about how I leave the pipes in the bathrooms/toilets/utility room/kitchen etc. do I just stick a 90° bend on the end of the hep2o and stick some 15mm copper in to it and leave that sticking out of the wall? or is there some special way to leave the water pipes?

welcome. as above turn-key is generally the most expensive way of self-building. we had quotes from ScandiaHaus for our build as turnkey and it was super expensive. so much so that we're hoping to bring the build in at less than 2/3rds of the cost they quoted. but we've been very hands on and done a lot of the work ourselves and it's taking a long time as a result. remember the triangle of building. time, cost, quality. you can have 2 of those at the sacrifice of the other one. so we want low costs and good quality so it's time that is losing for us.

The resilient bar is 17mm and the plasterboard 12.5mm so with 25mm screws I’d have to be a real numpty to go all the way through to a joist. 😉

thanks. I was pretty sure it would be ok but always best to ask those that actually know! 👍

greetings, I have installed resilient bars in our kitchen area and they run perpendicular to the joists, which is the correct orientation. but we have a small area that joins the kitchen and garden room where I need to run the resilient bars along the same line as the joists in that small area. we don't care about noise attenuation as it's under a flat roof/balcony at that point and so I just want to know if there's a safety reason to not run them in that orientation? the only reason we're installing them in that area and the garden room (which also has a flat roof that's external but the resilient bars will be run perpendicular in the garden room anyway) is to ensure a level ceiling height through the kitchen and garden room. hope that makes sense.

I have one of those snow foam nozzles for cleaning my car. I wonder if that would work? we haven't finished our house yet so they've barely been down since installed so I'm sorry I can't really comment.

Looks great. Well done and great decision.

That was the one we downloaded from your website

You don’t

🤫

I can’t copy you with everything

that's cheap! 😉 what is your expected airtightness score. All the insulation in the world won't do much good if the house is leaky. once you have your airtightness score do a search on here for Jeremy's spreadsheet heatloss calculator and put in the figures. most folk on here have found it pretty accurate. that will give you an indication as to your heating requirements. we installed our own UFH in our basement and our ground floor. total parts cost us about £2.5k. on the first floor we are having air conditioning as we're more likely to overheat than be cold but the AC will give supplementary heating if required. as we're not passive house we do expect to have some heating demand and I'm sure you will to. you also need to think about how you're going to heat your domestic hot water.

can't comment on which to get but I can say that I was 'coping' with a cheap aluminium step ladder that had seen better days. I decided to bite the bullet and bought a couple of Youngman step ladders and they've been a revelation. well worth the money. oh, and I bought a hop-up. that's been extremely useful as well. 🙂

and now with the void filled with 100mm Rockwool RWA45. all ready for boarding. 🙂 now I need to figure out how to build the dropped ceiling canopy over our bed!

no issues so far. but the ASHP has barely been used since installation. hopefully if we manage to move in this winter we'll actually use it and can report back!

In the kids rooms, tv room and around a canopy over our bed. It’s definitely not as easy as just boarding straight to the wall!

ok. so it's called an edge bead! available in metal or plastic https://www.ccfltd.co.uk/plastering-beads-and-mesh/british-gypsum-gyproc-drywall-metal-edge-bead-12-5mm-x-2400mm/p/850434 https://www.ccfltd.co.uk/plastering-beads-and-mesh/british-gypsum-gyproc-drywall-plastic-edge-bead-12-5mm-x-3000mm/p/850000 https://www.ccfltd.co.uk/plastering-beads-and-mesh/expamet-plasterboard-edging-bead-13mm-x-3000mm/p/987960 🙂

qq. I've made the shadow gap similar to how @MortarThePoint drew it. how would I finish off the plasterboard edge that forms the shadow gap (circled in red in the drawing taken from @MortarThePoint's drawing) it's just raw plasterboard with no covering. I need something on the end to 'finish' it as surely can't just leave it as open plasterboard!!