Thorfun

couldn't agree more

It's probably cheaper to just buy everyone who lives in the property noise cancelling headphones though

50mm RWA45 here. don't know how it performs yet though as we're not finished. 😉 i doubled it for the ceilings though but with the posi-joists being 304mm deep i figured i had the room to do so.

if you're thinking 2 years plus, add a year to it! especially if you're self-managing and doing work on it yourself. everything takes longer than you think.

most of those annotations are to do with our structural engineering design so won't be pertinent to your build up as your SE calcs will be different.

I bought a load of 150mm screws online. So much cheaper than Screwfix.

Are 125mm screws enough? With 25mm battens that’s only 25mm into the rafters. Doesn’t seem deep enough. We put 100mm PIR under our rafters and with 25mm battens used 180mm screws which gave a 55mm bite. Happy for someone to tell me that was overkill but I didn’t want them coming out!!

i have a timber frame and basement and achieved an airtightness score of 0.98ACH (i know i could've got better if i had more time but was happy with what we achieved so didn't bother). i learnt everything i needed to know on this forum. 🙂 we put a Tony tray between the basement and ground floor (as well as between ground and first floor). a basement is inherently airtight anyway as it's concrete! apart from that it's standard airtightness detailing around windows and doors and penetrations etc. if i was doing it again i would opt for a cut roof rather than attic trusses as they were a real pain to detail with insulation, membrane and tape! you might find a few gems in our blog but feel free to ask anything. there are a few others on here that have basements that i learnt from as well.

cement board? don't know if that's suitable but thought i'd throw it out there?

that's the beauty of our language isn't it? i'd say it's still overboarding but under the rafters and internal to the rafters. then you could also use 'on top of the rafters internally' to describe what you're doing but that could also cause confusion! i think the way you described the full make-up from external to internal gave the best description of what you're achieving. and i understand the requirement for brevity as we're all busy people (apart from @Pocster as the only thing he's busy on is handing out virtual biscuits) but sometimes you have to put all the details so there's no ambiguity in the written word. so you'll often see someone state 'build-up from external to internal is ........' and such.

I agree with @Gus Potter The use of the words “over (the) rafters” made it sound like external insulation. Which is obviously where the confusion came from.

Well I will have a number of VMs running on a NAS so I guess you could say that! 😂

I may have gone a tad overboard with the number of network sockets planned. 🤷‍♂️😂

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can your carpenter make a set for you? but if you wanted concrete then isn't it just a case of making the formwork and then pouring the concrete probably with some reinforcement?

here's mine! and that's not including the the Green Cat6A for the Loxone system which runs to the wall behind the camera.

sadly Covid has got in the way of me doing any work. so I'm researching stuff at the moment.

Is it not difficult then? Surely the risk of leaking is high for a novice and push fit copper is safer and quicker! Albeit more expensive. But when you take the time to do the soldering in to consideration the money saved on labour balances out the cost of the pushfit fittings?

greetings! I need to plumb in the showers next. we have Hansgrohe iBox with shower select 2 plates feeding a shower hose and a ceiling drencher head. the same setup in 3 showers. my question is around copper or hep2o. most of the pictures of peoples installations done by 'proper' plumbers based in the UK are copper from the iBox to the shower outlets. is there a reason this can't be done is hep2o? or, I guess the better question is, what is the benefit of using copper? or would it be a case of 'we've always done it that way'? if copper from the iBox to the shower outlets is best can I use push fit copper fittings? I'm not sure I want to start learning how to solder copper this far in to my plumbing journey!

+1.

thanks. I started my build so long ago that those regs don't apply! 🤣

when did that come in? I haven't lagged my pipe runs and our BCO didn't mention anything.

Kingspan Optim-R (other makes are available) is a vacuum sealed insulation board that is made to measure. they cannot be cut and if they get nicked by anything then there goes your insulation value. plus they are stupidly expensive. I probably would look down the Aerogel route that @TonyT mentioned.

they definitely do! I used a load of boxes of them on our build. but other makes are available. 😉

It’s what we as self-builders do.