Thorfun

The Velux ones can be fitted at 2 levels of upstand so you can make them more flush but you need to get the flashing kit to suit.

Velux are the popular choice for a reason. They’re simple to fit and do the job! Just like Eclisse with pocket doors. Personally I wouldn’t use any other but I’m no expert and haven’t even finished my build yet. 😂

not sure whether to laugh or cry at this one! well done for just doing it though. that happens a lot.

evening all. can I ask what terminal blocks people used for the larger cables (not Cat6)? I'm struggling to Google what I would need as nothing seems to match up visually with the photos of people's setups.

I win! ours was delivered last week and fitting should be finished next week.

it's been a while since I posted about something I learnt but I thought I'd post this in case anyone else can learn from it! if using 12mm tile backer board then your timbers need to be at 300mm centres! I only just found this out after I'd bought the boards. if I'd known it sooner I'd have built the walls/added noggins earlier in the process or simply gone for 20mm backer board which can handle 600mm centres as I've spent half the day today fitting extra noggins in a shower area and I still have 2 more bathrooms to do. 😢 and I'm talking about the XPS stuff (Marmox/Jackoboard/Wediboard etc) not Hardie backerboard.

and you'll probably get half it's cost back if/when you sell it after you've finished with it. i always prefer to buy than hire if i can.

i'm going to heed @Nickfromwales's advice here and go brass. it also just feels right to be threading a brass thread into a brass socket. going in to plastic just feels wrong!

hey. thanks for the info. I've made a decision and I am using copper push fit wall plate elbows. only time will tell if it's the right thing to do! I'm gutted I can't find/Wavin don't sell the brass Hep2o wall plates any more as that would've been my preferred route. I'm sure it'll be fine. 🤞

nope. not even in those places. have ordered a Pegler Tectite push-fit version

can't seem to find the brass versions anywhere anymore. 🤷‍♂️

@Nickfromwales have you used these plastic bibs from hep2o? https://www.cityplumbing.co.uk/p/hep2o-wall-plate-elbow-black-15mm-x-12-inch-pushfit-hx615w/p/616913 I always thought that screwing brass into plastic was a recipe for disaster? it makes me wonder if these are 'special' plastics for Wavin to move to plastic over brass? I presume Wavin must be pretty confident in the product to still give it a 50 year guarantee

we bought one of these. https://store.creality.com/uk/products/ender-3-s1-plus-3d-printer?utm_source=googleads&gad=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxaX-hMLpgQMVGMftCh2BkQkfEAAYASAAEgJSrPD_BwE. was very easy to setup and use. I chose that one as I didn't want to bother with upgrading parts and this one came with some of those upgraded parts already included. oh....and because I'm not a cheapskate and didn't want to buy the cheapest thing out there like some! 🤣

thank you! just what I needed to read. unlike you though I think I'm going to go with the push-fit copper bib as I don't want to use compression and I'm not ready to buy in to soldering. I will go shopping tomorrow and get this done. I will also pick up some of that liquid thread seal if it's idiot proof then I'll be in better stead than using Loctite 55. I'll also make sure the bib ends flush with the ceiling plasterboard so the skim will then leave it a few mm back as suggested by @Russell griffiths in that thread. then I'll just need to mock up something to protect it all from the plasterers!

oh wait. you mean this bit of rubber, right? sorry. it's been a long day

what rubber?!

do i undo and take off the Loctite 55 tape? don't want @joe90 to accuse me of being a bodge again. 🤣

i have some first gen Sonos speakers which i won't upgrade. i don't like the way they dropped the support on the newer apps for them. anyway, i digress, our speakers also would drop the signal. after a quick google i found that they were still trying to use the proprietary wireless connectivity. when i switched it to wifi instead the signal no longer drops.

ok. so if fitting in to one of those 1/2" wall-plate elbows I would need a rubber washer in there? I'll have to see if one comes with the fitting.

i can recommend our lighting designer if you want someone. wasn't too costly for a concept design. https://www.instagram.com/elenishiarlislighting/

just don't put a grid of spots like here! ps. obviously, you can if you want as each to their own.

i don't really remember! i'm pretty sure i bought as and when i needed it from SF. i found them the cheapest on hep2o stuff and i have one just over 5 minutes from my house. so i am constantly popping there when i've forgotten something. for long rolls of hep2o it's often collect next day so you do need some kind of planning. i have purchased some bits from JTM on @Pocster's recommendation but have since looked after they were bought out by PlumbingSuperstore and their prices seem not as competitive now. Plus, a local Screwfix will take parts back for a refund with no questions asked and that's very beneficial when you don't know what you're doing and buy every part you think you might need just in case! 🤣

can you tell i'm bored at work?

@crispy_wafer even cheaper at B&Q! https://www.diy.com/departments/pegler-yorkshire-tectite-push-fit-90-wallplate-pipe-elbow-dia-15mm-dia-12-7mm-15mm/5022050670687_BQ.prd

i'm only using copper where it will be visible and where it is needed. for example on my plumbing thread i need a wall plate connection for the shower head. looks like the hep2o version is now plastic so i don't trust that. so will convert to copper (either pushfit or compression) for that connection. but as you can see on that thread from my iBox install it's hep2o all the way!