Thorfun

and here's a Pegler Tectite version https://www.toolstation.com/pegler-yorkshire-tectite-sprint-wallplate-elbow/p26550 afaik, Pegler are a quality push fit copper manufacturer and i have a Toolstation 5 minutes from my house. could pick some up on my way home from work.

that's just old age

think i'm going to have to do a lot more research on the difference between flat and tapered as i'm confused and can't tell the difference.

i wonder if something like this is the ticket? https://www.wickes.co.uk/Primaflow-Copper-Pushfit-Wall-Plate-Elbow---1-2in-X-15mm/p/194595 can put a length of copper pipe joining the hep2o to this with no compression or solder.

looks tapered to me

these https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-plastic-push-fit-adapting-male-coupler-22mm-x-3-4/5653f and then a reducer down to 15mm https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-plastic-push-fit-stem-coupler-f-15mm-x-m-22mm/8401f

Seems like the Hep2o version is plastic. https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-plastic-push-fit-adapting-90-wall-plate-elbow-15mm-x-1-2-/2279f?ref=SFAppShare seems pretty strange that. I can convert to copper and get a compression version though I guess.

I think this is what I’m after? but in a Hep2o version https://www.screwfix.com/p/jg-speedfit-plastic-push-fit-adapting-90-wall-plate-elbow-15mm-x-1-2-/17692?ref=SFAppShare

Always wanted to start a company called "Bodge-it and Leg-it". think it sums up my plumbing skills to be honest

blimey that seems complicated! I was hoping to pop to the plumbing shop and just buy something off the shelf and screw it to a piece of wood!

that's all I've got! I've not put any plasterboard up yet so can put whatever noggins are required. I can take a photo of the end of it tomorrow to see what the end is but I think it's tapered like the one I posted in my other thread about the hep2o tap connector.

help us Obi-wan-@Nickfromwales. you're our only hope.

nope. not finished yet. maybe one day though ask me again in about 6 months. 🤣

ok. but not worth wasting more time undoing it and taking it off again! 😉

thank you. I didn't know it didn't need tape! it can't hurt though, right?

I thought the Zappi was PV and battery aware and it all integrated nicely out of the box?

errr....there's no washer I can see! have I used the wrong connector? or do I just ignore that rubber washer as it's not required in this situation? ps. I used Loctite 55 as I prefer it to PTFE

so how does one know when it's required?

I also have a question. our rainfall heads are ceiling mounted. I have a threaded bolt type thing that the mounting pipe attaches to. what do I need to put in the ceiling to attach that threaded bolt to?

I fitted one iBox with hep2o and was very joyous when I tested it and it looked dry! sadly that didn't last and I found a small weeping leak. this is due to the fact that my adjustable wrench is rather fat and so I couldn't tighten it any further. so I have ordered a slim adjustable wrench which will allow me to tighten all the connections up. still, thought I'd post a photo of how it looks anyway.

greetings. I am using hep2o 90° tap connectors to connect my toilet cisterns to the water supply. they come with a rubber washer and I can't figure out what it's for! can anyone shed any light please? it's the bit with the red arrow pointing to in the image below:

we bought these https://www.ultraleds.co.uk/plaster-in-standard-recessed-plaster-in-led-aluminium-channel-3-metre-length.html but I see they have dramatically increased in price since I bought them! I paid £19.70+VAT for a 3m length. here are a couple of photos after we fitted them. I cut out the channels in the plasterboard after they were put up and then fitted the profiles.

perfect for that city office look

here's what we did after getting a design from a lighting designer. we will have 3 pendants over the dining table and island, directional spots to light artwork/walls etc, led strips under wall units and the walkway around the island we decided to swap out spots for an plastered in LED strip channel. we think it looks amazing and have planned for it to be equidistant from the island so it 'should' frame the island. here's a photo, kitchen is being delivered next week so we'll see if our planning worked out. so the only actual downlight spots we have will be the couple shown in the entrance to the kitchen/dining area. we really wanted to avoid that grid of spots look. you can be so much more creative and your layout for the room really lends itself to be so. using different lighting for each 'section' of the room will help the demarcation of each area and give different mood lighting for the activities that will be done in those areas. we feel that the £1500 we paid the lighting designer to give us a concept design for our house was invaluable. but we'll only know for sure once the house is finished and we're living in it.

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