Thorfun

thank you. every day is a learning day. 🙂

I learnt from the best......I mean @pocster

Please sir. May I have my job back. 🙏

that'll make a change.

union rules state I need a written warning first.

you both mean here? and how am I supposed to bend a threaded steel rod?! I don’t have a rebar bender.

my electrician said Prysmian was the best so I got that. best price I found was Screwfix. the Prysmian LSOH from SF ended up being very comparable to standard PVC from others!

@Nickfromwales @Russell griffiths @saveasteading, is this better?

so I'm presuming that if I do as @pocster suggests: for each outlet once the pipe is run and connected up I can get a real world idea of actual flow rate and as long as that's before I board everything I can always run a larger bore pipe? the beauty of a manifold system I guess.

Can you change the PRedV to allow a higher pressure?

I'm not worried about the shower and the dead-leg removal tbh. my shower controls will be outside of the shower tray so I can start the shower without getting wet and can wait the few seconds for it to get to temperature. the HRCs will be on the basins as I hate waiting for hot water when wanting to wash my hands!

I'm not planning a hot return for the shower but the hot and cold will be the same distance (give or take a short amount for the difference between the hot and cold manifolds). I can only presume that in a pressurised unvented setup the water pressure for the hot and cold are the same? so I'm also presuming that with a blended temperature at the shower end it's not an accumulation of hot + cold water pressures, right? therefore measuring the cold feed water pressure/flow rate will give an indication as to the flow rate at the shower head?

yeah. new 32mm main direct from the pipe in the road. our existing supply off the water main in the road is shared with 2 other properties so I'm expecting a better pressure/flow. I'm just curious is all! just one of those things that my brain needs to know.

one of the jobs to do on my list is to check my static pressure and flow rate just so I can double check everything.

right. looked at the sump and it's the same as I was looking to use in our sump for the water from around our basement. so it's a simple 2 pump sump that pumps water to a ditch or something like that. as it's dual pump it should have redundancy in there so I'd say it's highly unlikely that both pumps have failed. if you lift the lid how high is the water level in there? is it just a faulty sensor on the alarm? could you use a hose to put a high level of water in there to simulate a high water alarm to make sure it's all working?

oh...just followed your link. seems your tank is just basically a sump so doesn't have an overflow.

sorry can't help but our RWH tank has an overflow which isn't pumped. so if the tank fills up gravity takes over and overflows the excess out of the tank. ours was from rainwaterharvesting.co.uk

I'll just add another one at the join nearest the rest bend and use strap band around the 'foot' at the base of the rest bend.

plastic. furthest shower that I care about is 10m away from the manifold.

👍. will get it sorted!

Right. So the force of the solids sliding down from above will force the bend off! Got it and not something I really want to happen. I’ll strap it up some more tomorrow and report back. thank you.

back to the plumbing manifolds. this is the design I've come up with. as there were no previous comments on the last design drawings I figured there weren't any major issues. it's a LOT of pipe! here's a photo of my plant room and where I was thinking of putting each manifold and the UVC. was going to put the hot manifolds against the wall and the cold ones sitting in front proud of the wall to save a bit of space (not that space is short in the plant room but I quite like the efficiency of the staggered manifolds like in this photo of someone else's setup taken from a thread on here. I have read many discussions on here about the size of pipe and have decided for simplicity to simply run 15mm everywhere and the HRC in 10mm. I know I could do the basins in 10mm but if I'm running an HRC to them then that will clear the dead leg and so I can use the 15mm without worrying about that side of it. anyone got any comments/suggestions/criticisms/plaudits before I purchase the plethora of manifolds and start running pipework!

so what's there now isn't sufficient?

hey, @Nickfromwales. can you please explain to me why you need to insulate an HRC but not a normal hot pipe? surely the point of an HRC is to replace the cool water with hot water when the hot tap is needed. so, assuming you have some form of occupation sensor and someone isn't spending 20 minutes on the loo then would the HRC/hot pipe really lose that much heat during the period of occupancy? or is there another specific reason for the lagging of the HRC/hot pipe combo?

Welcome. Not sure I can help too much. The last bathroom I renovated to allow my at the time girlfriend to move in ended up with us getting married. whether that was a good thing only time will tell. good luck with your project.