Thorfun

as I near the finish of the internal soil pipes (for now at least) my thoughts are now on the water pipes. I have decided to go with the radial manifold system. our toilets and washing machine will be supplied by a RWH header tank from the loft so they're not part of this plan but I am planning on putting a manifold in the loft to allow each toilet to be isolated individually if required. Below are some screenshots of what I think I need but I have a few questions (btw, ignore any pipe sizes you might be able to see, I just couldn't be bothered to remove them and the software I used ignored my request for metric sizes anyway!). In the master bedroom en-suite, we're having his and hers sinks. is it really worth having separate pipes for each sink or should I just run both of the same hot and cold? In the studio it is a small and rarely used en-suite and so I figure I might as well just run a single hot and cold feed and run both the shower and sink of that. madness or justified?. it's also quite a long distance from the plant room (15m - 20m or so) so I presume it'll need an HRC? Any of the other runs need an HRC? or should I just put one in regardless as it's a sensible thing to do even if our dead legs are minimal? In the kitchen we'll have a Quooker under the sink. I've just got the single cold feed for the kitchen sink and Quooker as I see no reason to have the Quooker on it's own feed especially as they're in the same location. is that sensible or should I run a dedicated feed for the Quooker? think that's it for questions for now. any other comments? Ground Floor First Floor Studio above garage

I agree with @Russell griffiths. get the insulated slab designed by an SE and then proceed from there. depending on what the SE comes up with will determine what you do for the foundations. I can recommend Tanner Structural Design for insulated slab design.

how is an overlooking issue a building regs requirement? sounds more like a planning requirement to me.

Flight Timber, who have now gone in to liquidation. which is a shame and someone on here has lost a lot of money and doesn't have a TF. 😞

MBC offer a guaranteed air tightness score of 0.6ACH with their passive twin wall iirc. If Airtightness is your thing then it should be a serious consideration. They even guarantee maximum 2ACH with a standard TF. I didn’t find many companies offering that. I still didn’t use them though. 😂

This is the solution I’d decided on and bought a rest bend when I was out earlier. I’m very glad to have it confirmed as the right thing to do! I’m not going to do the horizontal in 150mm though. I’ll stick with 110mm. I presume that’s fine? It’ll have to end up at 110mm anyway to join the other 2 branches. this, along with testing each of the 3 runs individually, is tomorrow’s job! I’ll update the thread with photos. 😊

I had a quote from Scandia-Haus and MBC. Scandia were stupidly expensive for the turnkey package. the quote was comprehensive so I could've dissected it and worked out just the TF etc but, as has been mentioned above, they use Actis insulation and my researched warned me against it (although at least one member on here has used it and are happy with it). MBC are expensive when compared to other TF companies but they do a twin wall pumped cellulose solution which, like @Iceverge, if I had my time over again I would go that route. but, as has been said above, take care putting too much emotional effort and money in to anything before you actually have planning permission! take a chill pill and do a lot more research on the options out there as there are many.

we used Proctor Roofshield with battens and counter battens so had a 50mm gap. but I believe the Roofshield can be used with a 25mm gap (drapped 10-15mm) but PLEASE ensure you check your specific situation with the manufacturer and your BCO as it might not be compatible for you.

tomorrow's job is dealing with this bend and the run to join up with the other soil pipes. I can't find a long radius bend with access so I was thinking of using a rest bend and then in to a 135° branch with an access point on the branch? the other option is a 45° bend in to a 135° branch with the access point plugged in to the branch? the third option is the 92.5° bend with access point built in that I've used before? which is the best way?

damn! where were you yesterday when I spent £10 on the other things that are due for delivery on Tuesday! 😉 think I'll pick up a couple of your solution as well as I have to pop to near Toolstation today anyway. thank you.

yeah, the 50mm one should do me I think.

lovely. thank you. the bosses on those are 60mm. should I get the 50mm ones or the 63mm ones? I presume the 50mm as it looks like they'll expand to fill up the 60mm hole?

I have those. I'm talking about plugging one of these https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-push-fit-3-boss-single-socket-boss-pipe-grey-110mm/18246

question time..... as I get ready to pressure test each section of pipe I'm wondering how I plug a solvent weld boss hole in a non-permanent way? I have bungs for the 110mm pipes and push fit caps but I can't obviously push-fit in to the solvent weld bosses. I'm wondering if there's a rubber bung like we all used to use in chemistry test tubes that'll do the job?

of course it is, I'm not that big a cowboy! 😉

thank you. ☺️ although sometimes it doesn't feel that way! consider it done.....well....on Sunday that is as tomorrow is a day off for me.

right! I've finished my homework @Nickfromwales. but it has thrown up another issue but I'll get to that in a bit. and with annotation in case it's not obvious does this work? and, the problem it has now brought up is the pipe coming from the other room in the basement doesn't line up with the second 135° branch now. so I've had to put two 15° bends before the 45° into the 135° branch to get it to line up. and from above is that ok to do that? or should I be drilling a new hole in the wall to get it to line up without bends?

indeed! I went out and had another look this morning and you're spot on here. am definitely leaving that alone. thanks for your help so far. I will post pictures of the fixes you've recommended for critique later. 😉

yeah, I have been doing this in certain places where possible with the 92mm rigiduct. but those massive intake/exhaust metal ducting can't be moved. at least not without major upheaval!

I might get 3 and change that 92.5° bend with access point to a 135° branch as you previously suggested you'd do differently. (photo in case you've forgotten! 😉 )

so, should the the branches where the WC enters be 135° branches as well then? I've used 92.5° branches. no, that's a cupboard in the entrance hall but will be stuffing it with Rockwool anyway and maybe that Killmat stuff you mentioned previously.

although, I guess I could use the terracotta 135° branches, right? https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-push-fit-45-triple-socket-equal-junction-110mm/14112

ok, so I can leave all the above pipework as is and just change it to a 135° branch coming straight down? don't need to relocate the above pipework to rest bend on to the horizontal? ok, understood. can you please explain to me the benefits of using 135° over the 92.5° branches? and also where you would use each? I ask as SF don't stock the 135° branches and I would've thought that they would stock the most used components so would've thought the 135° branches would be little used!

well, as @PeterW said... so I can simply use a pair of 45° with a short section of pipe between. I'll take a look in the morning and see if I can run the soil pipe straight down and bend to the horizontal and branch into the pipe through the wall (in purple below). it all depends on how much room I have and where the beams for the block and beam are. I'm sure it'll all be clear in the morning! hmmm.....out of interest @PeterW, can I use a standard 92.5° bend like this (https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-push-fit-92-5-double-socket-bend-grey-110mm/17584) instead of the 2 x 45°? or will that still separate solids and fluids?

I could spray paint it