Onoff

They could slot the bottom so they slip over that corrugated edging by the water. A couple of drilled and tapped holes for securing bolts.

I thought it would be a chuck made by Bosch as that 608... number is on the parts list for that drill. Saying that, they (Bosch), like everyone else change parts or sub parts out. Or they produce a batch of drills for a particular seller that have to be brought in on a price Tbh though Jacobs generally means a drill chuck like Hoover means vacuum cleaner i.e a traditionally very good make. You could change the chuck then for a 3/8"-24 but 13mm capacity instead of 10mm. 3/8" is the UNF thread size where the chuck connects to the drill. 24 is the "tpi", teeth per inch of that thread. Generally that will have a 10mm chuck. 10mm tends to be on lower spec, cheaper drills. Bigger, better drills, that take a 13mm bit tend to have a 1/2"-20 thread connection. So that's a 1/2" UNF thread with 20tpi. However...you can and I've done a few, get a 13mm chuck with a 3/8"-24 thread. Need to be careful not to over stress the drill if you do this.

I'm sure there'll be a probe.

Your key chuck I'm guessing is part number 1 608 571 054. That's a Ø1-10 MM, 1/2"-24UNF.

Looking at my gauge I have to read it on the side. If it was horizontal I could read it the right way up is all I can think.

Tbh it's not a major deal to change that chuck on your drill to a 13mm one.

Got my lad to print a protective TPU end in case I should accidentally fall backwards whilst pallet busting...again. (That's CT1 to secure it btw).

Seems that Erbauer one is available at Screwfix: https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-straight-shank-masonry-drill-bit-14-x-200mm/425hy#product_additional_details_container Toolstation for the Bosch one? https://www.toolstation.com/bosch-expert-multi-construction-tct-drill-bit/p84287?

I assume your drill chuck is a 13mm one? It'll be written on the end. This Bosch bit will fit I'm sure, it's reduced shank.

Yeah, don't use solvent weld, we know how that ends.

This drill bit would be ideal for your needs. https://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-expert-straight-shank-multipurpose-drill-bit-14-x-250mm/549KY? First off top brand. It'll drill timber and masonry too (metal even if you hit mesh between courses etc). You could prop your ledger up level on some other bits of timber then drill through the timber into the wall. Use insulating tape on the drill bit to gauge the depth.

I'm just about to sort my masonry bits. Might have a spare 14mm or two.

All posted just now via Evri. 1.5kg box wrapped in olive green duct tape. Fyi: 10mm drill for M8 studs 12mm drill for M10 studs 14mm drill for M12 studs

8bar here. PRV fitted. You do have to occasionally clean the mesh filter in the PRV. I think too, MIs say to fit the PRV in a horizontal section of pipework. I didn't...as I didn't really read the manufacturer's instructions properly...

The pump, expansion vessel and control gear I bought on Gumtree is sat up in Willowbrae still awaiting collection. Was supposed to be by a Scots mate who lives down here. He's decided now though that fuel is too expensive to drive up now so he'll be coaching it. However, the kind chap holding it for me up there is now packaging it all up for a courier. I do though now have a wasps nest to get rid of right where I need to access to do the panels!

You will also need a 14mm masonry drill bit thinking about it. Something like this: https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Masonry-Drill-Bit---14-x-150mm/p/168043 I'm guessing you don't have an SDS drill?

All boxed up. I'll get them on Evri in the next couple of days. As well as the fixings is a chewing gum pot full of copper anti seize paste. Double bagged etc.

I've seen a few instances where AC rated isolators (as in good for 3P) have been used on DC battery systems. People wonder why they burn out 😂

I've just some A4 Fischer ones, photographed above somewhere, think they're only 160mm. Saying that I want to keep them for when I make steel framed infills either side of the gate pillars.

You will I think need some stainless steel studding, A2 grade. It comes in 1m lengths. I reckon you'll just get away with cutting into 5 nom 200mm lengths. Cut with a hacksaw or slitting disc in a 115mm grinder. Ideally then buff the ends/de-burr with a flap disc (in the grinder). https://www.toolstation.com/stainless-steel-threaded-bar/p37920? Your drilled holes, in the block, need to be properly cleaned out. 80mm depth is a little on the short side for M12 stud. Rough calculation for the stud length: Drilled hole = 80mm Spacer = 50mm Square washer = 5mm Ledger = 45mm Washer = 2mm Spring washer = 3mm M12 full nut = 10mm Thread projection = 5mm Adds up to 200mm

Nice to see positive discrimination at work on that link...not! Where all da white women at?

To be fair he gets loads of help & advice on here etc. Done I think...I can cut a couple more tubes to make 10 of everything.

I think @Binky is the @Binky from the electrician's forum that @ProDaveand I know from there. I think I pointed him at this forum but can't remember. Something happened with my account at TEF and I couldn't get back in. Not been on there for months.