Onoff

Could you not build another house with AC from the off?

"Shrink N Repair" if you can get it. Various tape round / heat up / shrink options: https://hilltop-products.co.uk/heat-shrink/heat-shrink-cable-repair-sleeves-tape.html

Again local, I can get these brackets and quite a few too, for reasonable £5 each. I'm thinking might give me more cutting and shutting options. Says they're for plain tiles though?

Thanks. I've just watched it. Would 6 brackets be ok to support 2 rails and 3 panels d'you think?

I can't see how the integrity of the tiles interlocking is kept if you don't. You almost want a concrete "router" bit to do a neat job.

You're all hart.

Thanks but it wasn't what I was getting at / concerned about 😂 I'm not fussed about the brackets lining up with the frame edges. Appreciate it's the rails the frames go on. My biggest worry / misunderstanding, is how the bracket section that comes from the the angle (that screws to the joist) goes under the tile above. Surely, unless you grind a groove in one or both tiles it'll keep the tile above "up", then be a route in for weather, insects, even vermin? 1 is how I see it without modding the tiles, 2 being the ideal:

Started looking at getting the 3 thermal panels on the roof at last. I went to get brackets a while back and they had sold out. A couple of photos and questions then. Just been out and took a tile off: It's nom 55mm to the peak: & 25mm to the recess: This typical bracket drawing shows adjustment from 44 to 54mm. I presume that bit sits down on the tile? In my case it wants to be more like 25mm though. Do you groove the tile so this bit of the bracket sits flush and doesn't lift the tile? I can get 6 of these brackets local, could they be made to fit?

The first pint of British Bulldog was no good, switched to Spirit Of Kent . @ProDave, any of these take your fancy: https://www.printables.com/search/all?q=Impeller

Can print the D shape hole with the ready tapped hole in the side...

Hope that makes sense, I have been to the:

Almost certainly printable. The thing with drilling 3d printed parts is that, in essence, holes have a limited area of "solid" reinforcement around them. The "skin" of the print is similarly solid but the rest is an infill, like a honeycomb. Thus it's no use printing at 6mm ID then hoping to drill out to 8mm later...you'll be into the infill. Best to print as near as to the shaft size.

Cor it's well posh here!

Try Selfridge's. Make sure the wine boxes will fit whatever you get.

I'm going to snip of the coir rope tails at the bottom, pare into little strands and pile at the base of each plant.

Nice, your foilaige is much denser than mine by the looks of it. 1100mm is my tallest plant here out of the 50. 48 out of 50 are climbing, some I helped along the way by pointing/twisting the stem at/around the coir rope. Two show no inclination to climb, if anything they're spreading sideways. Presumably the tall one is trying to escape the slugs! I've been reading human hair is supposed to deter slugs and snails. Pity I've just been clippered.

Noticed the beans on the frame getting a bit holey. I refilled the beer traps last night. Went out just now with the head torch. Must have picked up 50 slugs on and around them. The ring of ash seemed to be being bypassed, maybe where I watered everything earlier it made it more passable. Ah well, it was an interesting experiment whilst it lasted. At this rate I'll have nothing left.

My lad will have a go of course. Elsewhere "we", that's me and nerds from another herd, are on the brink of investment casting in brass from an original 3D print so that's (brass impeller) a possibility for the future.

...may have had a little drinky but you get the drift. 45deg or larger is good. Could print it standing up with no supports and no sharp corners to create turbulence...

3d print conical reducers. Easy.

This shows the concept of square washers from when I built the kids tree house. Coach bolts, in this case bright zinc plated (BZP) go through the square washers. The nuts on the back are covered by plastic covers.

No, just several kinds of special! Once again, same drawing as before: The spacer projects slightly beyond the highest peak in the render. Not drawn too clearly but I assumed you'd grasp the idea. I'm doing these fag packet sketches on the fly with a Sharpie. A big square washer sits over the M12 stud and against the end of the stainless spacer. Ideally both spacer, stud and washer are stainless steel as you won't get to them again. The ledger plate sits over the stud against the square washer. Another big square washer, spring washer (to lock the nut) and nut secure the ledger. The square washers spread the point load over the timber faces - normal, little round washers would dig in to the timber face. They also help stop "rocking" a bit. The loads are thus transmitted to the blockwork not the render. You'll want to seal up where the spacers penetrate the render, with silicone. Same when you put the first square washer on. Squidge some silicone around where the stud comes out of the spacer then put the square washer on. I don't think I could work with special children and that's from a parent who has one 😂

Give me strength! I can do lots of either tube I may not be able to 13 of either square washer. 10 yes, for certain.

OK, tube spacers no issue. The flat washers. Just realised I used the 5mm plate to make lintels for the gate pillars. Think there's more somewhere but where... With what I have to hand I can do: 10 off - 30x30x5. Grade 316. 10 off - 70x70x2 . I think Grade 304. 14mm hole in the centre of each. They'll be cut square enough and de-burred. Which ones?

I meant more suckers. Some glass lifters have the option for more, to be able to lift heavier / bigger panels.