Onoff

Result.....ish, though I'll no doubt pay for it later! I said to her tonight "we" need to decide on either a towel rail or radiator. Her words were and I quote: "Well I'd like a radiator but you want a towel rail!" I said again I thought a rad would look old fashioned to which I got: "We haven't got the room under the window, can't we lay it in it's side?" When I looked perplexed she said: "Well they go up don't they!" Seriously, she's so blinkered against them she thinks there's only one style FFS! We ended with: "I just want something under the window that'll dry towels!" FFS IT'S CALLED A TOWEL RAIL!!! So.....probably something like this 600h x 1000w: https://www.flush-bathrooms.co.uk/phoenix-zonta-600-x-1000-polished-ss-radiator-ra320?utm_source=Google+&utm_medium=PLA&utm_campaign=PPC&gclid=CLS-5tCNmtACFQw4Gwod1KkCyQ Should fit just right under the window: Is that a good price as she's carping about it? And.....can I feed it from two 16mm Pex-Al-Pex pipes taken back to the manifold? Figuring I'll have to have a couple of elbows hidden in the wall!

Where are you @readiescards? I've got about 9 bar coming in, you can tap off of that if you want!

As a Welsh Wizard once said "Buy a box of spare tiles!" Total indulgence like the body dryer. Wait until that goes WRONG and I'm left with a dead body dryer on the ceiling....or a body dryer shaped hole to fill! One Taptile at the door, 1200mm up. Easy access via the riser cupboard at the rear. The second alongside the bath about 4' away. I'll be able to control the main, recess and plinth lighting within a beer's reach. If that goes wrong it'll be break a tile time so I'll silicon that one on. More worried about whether the mosaic pitch will line up with the 6 Taptile buttons! Hate me? Tbh I'm not overly keen on the collective for introducing me to the term "VCL". I was quite happy with Aurora down lighters and hoods for years but now find myself looking at "flat panel LED", worrying about penetrating the VCL, air leakage around the fitting, should I build a false ceiling etc, etc. I'm also obsessing about draughts! Building in something non repairable, have you missed my sunken bath saga?

And just to complicate things: http://www.taptilecontrols.com

I emailed him but he's not come back to me.....

When you get a minute... Can you explain how this set up works please. Just interested.

I know some things like pumped showers require a certain size CWS tank, say 50gal to function correctly. Assume it's to do with draw/refill rates. My own place I've got a 25gal tank and had to search around for a shower pump that could live with it. I can't increase the tank size without lowering it's position or modifying the roof! Does "head" not equate to pressure? As in the higher the tank is sited the higher the available head pressure? And does a bigger tank give better head pressure? This is probably Plumbing 101 but it's all a black art to me!

The ducting I got came with one duct joiner per roll. They were available separately too. Just don't lose the draw string or it's the plastic bag and vacuum trick!

Dancing as I do from one topic to another.....I have to make this corner behind the plaster board and bring two pipes out for the towel rail (rad if she gets her way ) Shown a couple of bits of scrap copper as the radiator tails. Even with the wedge taken out it's pretty tight without putting elbows in within the wall. Behind the batten is a max of 30mm space. Not really enough to get any insuation round the pipes. I could drill through the timber and bring the pipes through. That would at least allow me 50mm or so PIR behind the pipes. Or do I bend up some fancy copper lengths just to get me round the corner and risk straight connectors to the plastic pipes within the dwarf wall?

Just superb! My nephew's pallet shed looks doomed to failure he can't even be arsed to stack the saved pallets and put a tarp over them until I've time to help him. What I've always wondered is whether it's possible to fabricate ROOF MEMBERS from old pallets (short lengths). Thinking a lattice beam maybe.....

Sikaflex ordered from your link. Ta.

I dream of air tightness..... Did you go for blue duct?

Most water boards specify the duct is sealed where it comes up into the house. I thought it was as much for preventing gas (be it methane, natural, radon?) ingress as water. I poured Wiska Gel down mine. The foam seemed to act as a plug. It's magic.....actually that's Magic Gel but either would do.

This is where I got my 63mm ducting: http://www.drainagepipe.co.uk/products/flexible-underground-ducting/ I see 110mm is twice the price!

I even buried my duct in sharp sand as I had jumbo bag sitting there. I ran out.....so used a half bag of ballast.....still not enough so more (sharp) coming this week. Interesting about the pipe pulsing!

Ta. Lots of numbers to choose from with that Sikaflex...EBT..221.....???

My reasoning was that my ground is full of flints and adjacent tree & bush roots. So added mechanical protection. I put 25mm MDPE down a 63mm OD duct around 40m run without a problem. The hardest but was getting a 1m bit of 22mm pipe insulation down between the duct and MDPE where it comes up through the suspended floor. Tapering the insulation with a craft knife and some silicon spray sorted it! But then what do I know, I even duct SWA just in case.....

My mate's windows DIDN'T have the double sided foam tape in I should have added.

Need to make some permanent "feet" with minimal packing. This was just for levelling Thinking that a lump of "proper" timber as shown might eventually split. Considering a stack of marine ply discs cut out with a Starrett cutter.....

Ta. Is there any difference in recommended method for sticking tiles to ply vs moisture resistant plasterboard? A one product suits all would be good. Thinking about this though didn't you ages ago suggest ordinary silicon to bond tiles to ply? Also at the "joins" between vertical / horizontal boards is it wise to run a bead of something even if there is a batten behind? CT1 seems a bit costly for that job but I don't mind. I'm thinking a cheap silicon might not fit the bill. Going belt & braces! Good old Gripfill I'm wondering as it's waterproof. http://www.screwfix.com/p/gripfill-grab-adhesive-350ml-12-pack/45901

BIG security issue as far as I'm concerned! A mate bought a house with his girlfriend some years back. They were moving stuff in from their respective flats when she noticed some dirt on the new carpet. Blaming him they went to grab the Dyson which wasn't there so ensued the "I told you to bring it!" row. Thinking he'd put a CD on, the big stack he's brought wasn't there...nor the TV etc. It was only later that day he noticed the beading on one of the externally glazed DG units hadn't been put back properly by the BURGLARS when they exited via the window! This was after wandering round, blaming each other for the missing stuff. He then went round removing all the beads himself and siliconed the units in before putting the beading back. Also some dirt on the window sill inside!

So.....back to the bath surround: Not sure whether to do this strip that comes up from the 3/4" marine ply deck to the recess in plasterboard or 1/2" marine ply? I've got both. It'll be tiled over. I can easily enough add something to screw the bottom of the strip to:

The Amstel in the picture is more of a prop. It's a full bottle but Amstel gives me a headache.....it never used to in Corfu but back then the bottles were brown! I had a bottle of Ginger Grizzly just now.....

A bit thin but then I'm comparing it to the Franke my niece got off eBay about the same time. Thicker steel and keeps it's finish. Saying that the Wickes one doesn't flex when you grab the mixer like some really cheap ones. They sound like a certain Australian entertainer with a wobble board!

Good shout on the scrim in the corners pre tiling! Nice to nearly have a corner of the room again: