Onoff

Ta. I work better multiplying by 2 tbh!

Too late.....all done mate! Tbh the torque limiter on my Makita SDS is so sensitive the chances of it catching and doing me that sort of damage are virtually zero. It took quite a while to do the hole through a cavity wall at 125mm and the 50mm waste through the same wall with a 65mm cutter. When it catches the torque limiter just kicks in and clatters. I suppose it makes it "safe!

Bottled cutting the soil pipe outside so stayed in and cracked on with getting the VCL on one wall. Had to cut it to fit round the pipes but made a bit of a hash of cutting and taping! Dwarf wall screwed on with 6x150s so don't really want to take that off! What's the score with this air tightness business of it's not 100%? Not really sure what I'm going for tbh! For instance where the copper pipes come out through the VCL is there any particular "tape" I can press around where they exit? What btw is the recommended spacing for plasterboard screws (200mm?). Bought a couple of boxes cheap from Lidl of all places.

Expanding foam on its own imo is a bit shite tbh. OK as a "filler". I core cut a bit of Celcon to block this old soil up. Wetted it and used quality gun grade Soudal expanding foam. When dry I could feel "pin point" draughts. I think it's more through the breeze blocks than the fault of the foam. I finished this off with Fischer 2-part chemical resin.

It appeals to me more and more and had I had the experience of this site (and eBuild before) I might have gone that route initially. Doing my bathroom it never ceases to amaze me how draughty the walls are. Even though they're rendered inside as I work my way round, battening, insulating between and putting a VCL over the lot the draughts are more noticeable where I haven't done. Round the window, old soils & wastes, cracks even. EWI might have saved me lots of work the but it was all a bit alien when I started!

Trying to grow a pair this morning and tackle this: It all needs to go whilst working round living in the place! Plan is to cut the clay soil on the right at the "+" mark, past the crack and the hole in it, leaving a stub say 2" to connect a rubber collar to. This I'll do after several bleach laden flushings of the upstairs wc! As soon as I do this we're down to just one wc in the house, the one coming from the small cloak and exiting through the brown soil in the pictures above. So after I cut the clay I'll have to go he'll for leather to remove that big lump encasing the bit of clay that's being got rid of. Then a new soil drop will go in with a tee into the wall for the new bathroom. Once I sort that 3" drain pipe in the pic I can get rid of the 110mm plastic soil coming off the grey bend! If the clay stub I leave breaks or is no good I'll have to go all the way to the manhole! WAS just waiting on a jumbo bag of sharp sand, 10mm shingle and one of ballast to turn up for covering / reinstating things. Lorry turned up and they'd sent the big one! This despite me telling them access was tight and to send the small Hiab! Had to send him away. Apparently the small lorry is in for MOT (they must have known this when I ordered it). Delivery now Weds pm.

Could have been.....tbh can't remember! If he won't mind then please PM me his email. Cheers

Over on eBuild I was talking to an SE type guy about him doing some calcs for me so I could install some strengthening steels in my garage roof to make a bit of a storage area up there. I've had a look but can't find the thread nor access any PMs. Anyone on here remember who it was? Cheers

PM on it's way!

Losing storage space would just be something else she could use to have a dig when she's in a mood!

It is a worry as I'm the lowest house at the bottom of a valley which is an old / seasonal water course.

As per the title, is this ever done? Thinking of the best place for a buffer / TS at ground floor then under the stairs seems favourite at the mo. It's central to the house and as the "stairs" room itself has no heating figured it would be a good place for a "TS" for it's radiant heat benefits. Along with siting the UFH manifold in that room the pipes coming off it going to 5+ rooms should negate the need for heating the room itself. And then the thinking went off piste..... The stairs room floor which is concrete will need to be excavated and built back up. We use the under stairs area for a couple of large filing cabinets and general tat so dshy really want to lose the space. So.... - Neatly dig a big 'ish, round hole. - Line with a DPM - Concrete the base - Drop some concrete rings into it - Drop in a TS tank 300+ litres. This on a fab,d cradle with attached strops for winching out for servicing / replacement. - Insulate the sides. How to do this neatly? Cutting "rings" out of PIR seems a bit wasteful...maybe make a mould and fill with expanding foam or drop in a liner and fill with foam between the liner and concrete rings? On the basis the floor will be coming up anyway does this idea have any merit?

I can't recommend enough doing a semi sunken bath. The pocket in the floor is ideal for sweeping sawdust and other rubbish into whilst building. There is of course the trip hazard / twisted ankle issue to consider (especially when partially covered by an out of place Correx sheet) but all in all it's a winner!

They often have something similar in LIDL like this. Doesn't have the numerical readout (colour changing instead) but cheaper. This ad is from a while back but I was in there the other day and sure they had them and colour changing taps too. https://www.offerscheck.co.uk/miomare-led-shower-head/lidl/2014/kw-38/187279 "Miomare" as a brand? Never heard of it.....

Onoff's a bit happier..... THOUGHT about it a bit more! Made a jig, redrilled the stud wall further back & got the multi tool out. Set back far enough so plasterboard screws should miss. Whacked in a couple of random lengths of pipe just to get a feel. MUCH straighter, neater: Worked it out so I can insulate the pipes too albeit with some 9mm wall stuff: Still got to figure the bend detail but I reckon with the Pex-Al-Pex it'll be easier. Got as far as taking a wedge out of the stud to aid "cornering". EDIT: Still need to fill the "wrong" holes with the 18mm dowel I bought

Well that didn't turn out quite how I'd planned.....really didn't think this one out! Just looks dog rough! Decided to see how easy it would be to run a couple of pipes within the dwarf wall to the "towel rail" position. First mistake was drilling the pipe holes (19mm) too far forward. This was to miss the 6x100 screws. Hindsight says I should have flipped the wall over and removed the screws! Of course the basin waste was in the way so I thought the pipe would easily bend round it. Either side of the waste I drilled those holes at an angle. This is btw a random bit of Hepworth PB.....figure what I used for the UFH (Pex-Al-Pex?) will be a bit more malleable. This PB is quite stiff..... And HTF do I get it around this corner WITHOUT putting a push fit elbow on it? I did drill the hole through the stud at an angle here too. Or do I just "lose" the stud there and remember to not drive a plasterboard screw through it? I can feel some nail plates coming on! EDIT: I'm going to fill the holes with some 18mm dowel rod, remove the screw and drill further back.

As a nod to getting older with my ongoing bathroom saga (or should that be Saga...geddit?) I've: - Lowered the floor which was 60mm higher than the rest of the house. - Partially sunk the spa bath (1800x800) so the floor of the bath is level with the rest of the room. - Angled the bath sides in so when you stand next to it you're in effect a bit "closer". - Made provision for a wet room corner so I can be wheeled in straight from the doorway! By the time I finish it I'll need all these features!

So is there a "stop gap" whereby I can run BOTH the UFH and towel rail in there? Short term of course.....

Didn't I get it though to run the UFH circuit in the bathroom off of the single pipe downstairs CH?

The TMV (?) says max inlet temp 65degC. Temp range 35-65degC.

Get a roll of Denso tape and you could give her a very sticky end.....

False alarm I think ref my leak. Just I think water from when I cracked the joint to check I had the top hat washer round the right way! Want me to send you some Jet Blue Plus?

Tbh I'm trying to avoid an electric towel rail. I suppose though while I can I might as well run a bit of conduit round there to give me the option. The towel rail will be pretty close to the wet room corner i.e. right on the boundary and as we're going to try it without any form of screen etc..... I really want to do it off the manifold as a seperate"circuit".

Ta. Her "concerns" are twofold; firstly that a towel rail "gets too hot" (seriously) and then that "they don't dry towels....again SERIOUSLY! I can sort of agree with the first one. In the upstairs an suite we have an old oil filled electric towel rail that came with the place. The surface temperature is beyond hot! We never have it on stemming from safety concerns when the kids were little. A while back it got switched on accidentally and I staggered against it in the dark one night burning my forearm. Upstairs there's probably a 1m wide alcove with the loo in. As you face the loo the oil towel rail is on your left. Sitting down it's on your right. In the wrong place for towels really, very unhygenic for reasons of "splashing" Thus we put the towels on the small rad up there instead. Similar space issues downstairs. Basin in front of you, towel rail to the left, end of the bath to your right. (The whole upstairs ensuite needs a revamp tbh but I don't dare start that!) As for the not drying towels bit....lost for words! What's the normal surface temperature these towel rails run at? I just think a traditional rad in the new bathroom will look dated and an eyesore. If then I treat the towel rail as a separate circuit off the UFH manifold I assume I can set a safe maximum temperature? Cheers

Just looked elsewhere and we were recommended Jewson ones: http://www.jewson.co.uk/electricals-plumbing-heating/electricals/meter-boxes/products/EGM06004/surface-mounted-meter-box/