Onoff

Cheers. Worth considering then. Modifying footpaths......well on one side of the house it's already gone! Next question then, what happens with a soil stack like the one in the picture & EWI ? And drain pipes for that matter.

And to think until I found this forum I didn't know what EWI stood for! In broad terms is there any point in fitting EWI to an existing traditionally built house say with a suspended timber floor? I'm assuming you would get cold bridging issues up through the walls from the footings? Or is it that you combine it with internal insulation on the walls and floors too?

I am running a couple of these: http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Anemometer-for-measuring-wind-speed-data-log-on-your-pc-/162243297233?nav=SEARCH Plugged into a dual serial port card in a pc. Anemometer is over 100m away. Connected via Cat-5.

Not one nail used on my new bathroom joists. Leaping about up top and not a peep. Used a combination of 6x100 Goldscrews and those timber screws with the 8mm socket driver head.

Our upstairs 18mm T&G is all glued and originally put down with angular ring nails which are serrated and meant to "grip". It's a noisy floor. I half wondered if anyone ever puts a strip of dampening "rubber" atop the joists to dampen the effect down? A bit like the underlay under laminate flooring.

I believe Spax sprinkle them with fairy dust to imbue their screws with magical powers. All I know, as others here attest to is that they work. http://www.spax.com/uk/craftsmen/screw-finder/products/specials/spax-specials/spax-flooring-screw I think that the top thread bites into the board and stops it going down as you tread on it so no sliding up and down the shank even if you do get a slight gap between board and joist through shrinkage.

Never, ever, in a million years will they be as good as these: Self drills the hole thru the floorboard, the plain shank then clears the hole in the floorboard - so no rubbing of the board up the shank of the screw. The top threads then bite into the board pulling it down and it self countersinks. They do what they say on the tin.

Badly fitted noggins maybe? A few of our downstairs traditional floorboards fitted with clout nails are "creaky". The upstairs 18mm T&G chipboard was the one where it would "crack" I'm sure down to the angular rings letting go over time. Using Spax on both areas helps greatly. One floor I did in 22mm T&G chipboard Spax screwed on to 400mm ctr joists is nigh on as solid as a concrete floor with zero noise.

Spax flooring screws are a Godsend especially if the boards were fitted with angular ring nails. "Ordinary" screws aren't a patch on the Spax ones.

Seriously mortar guns are great. One top tip though, ONLY use soft sand mortar. I tried a sharp sand mix and cracked the barrel! Fixed now with lashings of duct tape and still going strong.

If you were to cut a couple of window / door shaped holes in it it could be repurposed to cover a wall with unsightly, cracked brickwork..... INCOMING!

Toolstation have a mortar gun on offer at the mo. £16 I think with loads of attachments.

All looking good this morning with no leaks inside! Got to put the outside tap on and screw it to the wall later today. I'll put a good slug of mastic behind the flange plate to seal the pipe entry and use brass or st/st screws. Need to then I think reinstate some sort of meter "pit" around where this stop cock is just inside the fence. The side you can't see is still iron, about 10' or so that runs under the fence to the meter at the roadside. Think that bits on borrowed time but if it does go it's down to the water board. I just went to make it easy for them! One thought was to carefully cut down a blue plastic barrel with lid, sink that level and then fill with loose EPS packing type beads. If it did need to be accessed later I could just unscrew the lid and scoop out the EPS? (Then backfill the trench half depth, put in the CCTV duct etc). P.S. A big thanks to all for taking the patience whilst I relearnt my plumbing skills (if I ever had any). Hopefully the marks on Nick's forehead where he's been banging it against the wall will fade.....

Thought the PRV would look better set at 45o to save craning my neck. Gave it a little twist undone and DRIP! Can't have had enough PTFE tape on it. Sorted now. The old adage "if it ain't broke....."

Look, it was full of big, hairy arsed plumbers who looked like they knew what they were doing and I was that 14 year old again being sent in to the pub 'cos I was the tallest! "4 pints of beer please Sir!" "You'll be meaning landlord son" "4 pints of landlord please Sir!" Tbh i just preferred the name! (And it was on the shelf behind the counter). Just think of the "I told you so!" moment when it starts leaking!

Went with Jet Blue Plus in the end (sorry Nick) from Plumb Center. Slackened every joint, applied and re-tightened with no squeaks! She's holding steady Cap'n! A little disappointed in that it's NOT blue! Sort of a creamy, greasy off white with just a touch of grittiness but seems to do the trick.....so far. One oddity, the pressure. Pretty sure yesterday playing with this the PRV was 3 bar. Tonight I'm reading 3.4 bar. I was bliddy careful NOT to get compound inside anything but worry I might have. Think I might now go and read the PRV setting up instructions in depth and take note of the flushing procedure!

Pity you haven't got a second, matching door then you could make one of those drive through garages.....

Invite them round for a barbie! Some people open their gardens to the public once a year.....

Long winded discussion about magnetizing currents, impedance, unloaded trannies and the negligible consumption therein or..... Case closed! Erm......case reopened......just realised she wants to charge in the bathroom. So.....just put the socket 3m away from the bath / shower.

The thing that puts me off Gasseal is it's not specifically for potable installs. Plus the MSD sheet makes it sound nasty! I'll likely try Jet Blue Plus.....which is for potable. Silicon grease? I use that on: F connectors - strip the coax and dip the whole stripped end in then screw the plug on. Protects against water ingress a treat. If crimping outside I again strip the wire and dip in silicon grease then put the crimp on. Then I dip the male crimp and insert into the female. Great on motorbikes.

I've been recommended Jet Blue Plus for this? Specifically suited to potable.

I'm thinking OPENING roof for a garden observatory! .....haven't figured out quite how and still think a sliding one would be better but.....maybe a couple of tailgate struts off a van.....just imagine the noise in the rain! Actually I have a similar door and am going to build a GARAGE / garden machinery store around it!

I see S'fix do Flomasta and Fernox potable compounds around a fiver. There's a Plumb Base, Grahams etc just as near that I'll try for the ROCOL first. As an aside I did use some S'fix own brand, liquid PTFE when I did a bit in the kitchen a while back I've just remembered. Does the job but a bitch to undo as it sets hard.....as in really hard!

ROCOL make the RTD I use all the time for threading. I'll grab some. Wouldn't a "setting" one be better on this particular joint? Also says it's for LPG and natural gas? My old man (ex BG) used to do most of my pipework. Pretty sure he used to use hemp and wind it into the threads on compression fittings? Think PTFE tape was around but guess he was old school. Linseed oil seems to ring a bell for some reason... Should I maybe back off all these compression joints and whack some compound around them when I get it?

Straight up I WAS considering some form of lubrication! Should I have done ALL the compression fittings with it as a matter of course? It's years since I've done any real plumbing. All I've got is leccy stuff though; Yellow 77 and then Trefolex / RTD. Plus my engineering lubes, oils & greases. "Boss white" rings a bell. I'll grab something tomorrow. Any preferences?