Onoff

Centreline of loo roll holder at 26" from finished floor seems to be the norm. Does this sound about right?

"Ah sh!t!" said @Nickfromwales anticipating more idiot questions:

Well it's something to be going on with:

A tougher driver at CPC: http://cpc.farnell.com/dewalt/dt7430-qz/cleanable-nutsetter-8mm/dp/TL18339?ost=8mm+hex&selectedCategoryId=&categoryId=700000008548&searchView=table&iscrfnonsku=false

Do you mean these Dave? I can stick a couple in the post if you want tomorrow. Came with "Timbalock/fast/fix..." screws years ago when I was buying them in bulk and one came in each box: Tbh. you buying at Toolstation might be cheaper than the postage but I don't mind, let me know: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p24949?table=no

Just lost a relative to it.

Sitzpinken! Seriously now.....the stud components as they are, are ready to go in but I need really to noggin it anyway. If I put a single, horizontal noggin half way up I'd lose height for stacked bog rolls. So maybe add a vertical and a horizontal to the wall off of that. That'll give me a full height vertical gap I can noggin later when (if) I install the roll dispenser.

I've got some scrap ali sheet, I feel a mock up coming on.....maybe with clear Perspex sides to view the action..... If it works I'll do the real "chute" in polished stainless.

I might steal "Bog Mini Blog" and change the name of this thread! I might whack another vertical stud in, spaced at about a roll's width in case I progress the loo roll stacking system!

With the cupboard stud wall in loose and some strategically placed tool boxes to represent the wall hung wc I'm not so sure now about the loo roll holder position! It'll be a bit of a reach around to grab the loo roll. No way it can go dead centre of the wall.

So glad I took loads of photos! That and the CAD makes it a doddle to set the cupboard wall out and NOT to drill through the UFH pipes:

Sorry, I was getting mixed up with this Dormer.....it was all the curves:

All the soffits on each dormer need redoing anyway. I'd like to angle the flat roofs up to just under ridge tile tbh.

@ProDave I really need to do away with the flat roofs completely:

Just so organic.....sensual even! Don't you just want to get naked, roll around on that and become one with it?

I seem to remember over on eBuild the general view the dormers were a bitch to insulate and that an eyebrow roof is a better bet? Tbh I really can't see why. Specifically I'm looking at it from my own roof that desperately needs repairing / upgrading. Simplifying it and picked at random but couldn't you just apply this warm roof technique to sloped, vertical and flat surfaces. So basically ditch the existing tiles and felt, add a timber (OSB) deck. Where the flat roof is insulate over the edge so it meets the vertical insulation and add a soffit detail AFTER. If I went for EWI at ground floor I assume the VCL there would have to join to the roof's VCL. Just another little project...

Let @Rogerthedog fly the thing I say, he seems to know where he's going round the site better than anyone!

Needs a second coat: Really NOT impressed with the way the paint came out on the welded metal plate / tube. Special metals primer first which came out alright. The black Flag brand hammer paint was as thick as and a bitch to put on.....but it's underneath!

Now jumped onto another wall / corner where the full height storage cupboard will be as you walk through the door: The cupboard "walls" will come off the closely spaced studs on each return. The old, now redundant, incoming water main pipe can now be taken out. This stud wall tapers due to the room being 3" out. The front face of the stud here is 195mm from the old wall behind. (It's 120mm the other end where the soil pipe exits). Originally I had envisaged putting a VCL over the front face of the studs like on all the other walls and having an access panel to get to the stopcock. But now, with this pipework going it seems a pity to waste all this space. I was thinking maybe to line this all with the continuous VCL, plasterboard over it and put shelves in there? Any ideas? Might be a tad clearer once the projecting stud wall is up.

Would it do if I could get some for nowt?

Was thinking the cellular, grey slit foam stuff would be no good for immediately next to the boiler. This type I reckon would be best:

That one wall is 9" or thereabouts (solid I think) the other walls are 4" (breeze?) with pillars. Really it needs tearing down and the boiler being left in place as it's the best thing there! As for the boiler I've replaced the burner nozzle, a couple of burnt through baffles, the burner gasket and remade the lid. And the pump motor too ages ago. Got a bill in the house bumpf, I think it's around 98 vintage. The insulation under the lid is only about 1/2". Not sure how thick the side insulation is but I think it's thicker. The sides tbh don't get that warm at all. I do know that the rigid, Rockwool type insulation board used is bloody expensive from when I bought a new sheet for the top. Half mulling as to the feasibility of wrapping the existing casing in 2" Rockwool and having my fabricator bend up 4 lipped, sheet steel sides that I could Rivnut together. Have the sides 2 or 4" higher and I could drop in a "slab" of insulation from the top and put a simple lid on. Can you over insulate a boiler? Still concerned as to whether ordinary Rockwool is as "fireproof" as the original stuff they use.....especially so on the flue which appears to be solid steel pipe and gets pretty hot to the touch. That 28mm copper pipe coming out of the top needs insulating. Guessing it can't be the foam type. I'll do all that and it'll start to leak!

So our Bluebird boiler sits in the unheated boiler room. Single skin block walls and wooden frame, single glazed windows and door. The room itself doesn't need to be heated. I got to thinking whether it is feasible to knock up an "over cover" out of a Rockwool slab to sit atop the black lid. This btw is a new lid I made: Also the flue pipe going out the wall can I insulate that? Cheers

I have to admit I'm NOT a DeWalt fan but bought one of their right angle drill attachments on a special a while back for something ridiculous like £12.99. Just bought another for a good mate (who's a die hard DeWalt fan) from FFX albeit at a higher price. http://www.ffx.co.uk/tools/product/Dewalt-Dt71517T-Qz-5035048089798-Right-Angle-Torsion-Drill-Attachment?gclid=CK_tkPflz9ACFRLgGwodAGAK-Q The reason for posting is I've not been able to find cheaper so this seems the best deal. Second, the thing is nigh on bulletproof. Not sure of the max torque it takes but I've really been giving it some beans. Seems really strongly made. It's much slimmer too than "proper" right angled drills. It takes btw ONLY hex screwdriver type bits. (I've hex ended drills, c'sink bits, socket adapters and so on I use with it ). Wish I'd bought two or more when on a special! One thing is that IMHO the bits that come with it sit in maybe a tad too far.

This side of the house is a pain tbh. The ground is very uneven and there are 3 sided old concrete footings coming off from the house. Trying to drive the mower from front to back lawns is murder. Under the "dirt" is some sort of slab so the whole area stays waterlogged. The aim is to dig it all up and grade the ground for a start. Long term maybe some sort of car port for all weather working would be good.