Onoff

Hmm...to go square or not? Got the insulated plasterboard on the sill. Sikaflex round all 4 edges then a good zig zag of low expansion foam in the middle. All level and weighted down: BUT...doing the sides of the reveal and the piece on the rhs kicks in by about 8mm at the back. Tbh it's nice and in line with the upvc frame. I can't see it'll mean anything else other than cutting a tile stop the sill. If I try and bring it out to the line I'll have a big hollow at the back of the insulated plasterboard. I'm looking for a good contact area as I'm foaming it to the blue DPM that lines the reveal. Any thoughts?

Thanks very much. AutoCAD .dwg file OK?

After a trawl through what's left of eBuild I see the guy I was talking to went by the username "structuraldesigner". I can't access any PMs over there so can't even see if I had contact details for him. Anyone know the chap? Cheers

Good chance: https://www.eielectronics.com/downloads/accessories-manuals.html?download=179:accessories-manuals

Is piling ever combined with GSHP on domestic builds? Would seem a pity not to make use of a "hole(s)" if you could.....

Have you seen their nests up close? Works of art. The ultimate self build? Goes against my Buddhist leanings to kill them tbh I'm off to chew up some newspapers and build walls.....

Ta. Losing it a bit with the plasterboard and warped timbers. I reckon I'm at about +/-2mm tolerance wise to the CAD drawing it's all based on.

And back to the woodwork: The "removable" half idea:

I got a load of timber that came over from NZ as packing and timber in shipping containers to brace machinery. It's been put to good use over the years. It came with all it's kiln drying certs and so on as the client was belt and braces on every little detail. However.....we now have "funny" spiders in the garden. I am being quite serious. On another note the supplier would frequently fill the containers with their local beer (Speights) and lovely stuff it is too. We must have pissed them off as one time the crate was littered with bottle caps but no beer!

A few still around in my garage. Good excuse not to go in and tidy up!

6Ah batteries with Makita too.

IF you know where your cables are going you could put in some flat cable glands like this. I've done it before through I beam webs. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Cable_Accessories_Index/Sprint_Cable_Glands/index.html If the web is that thick though it's a dead cert that the thread on the gland won't be long enough to get the lock nut on. Then unless you have M20/25/32 drills and taps for ELECTRICAL threads..... Does make a neat job though.

Was it you who put up a link a while back to Makita clone batteries?

Multisolve.....seriously what makes it "magic"? Spray on and it smells / feels greasy then it's just.....GONE! I've been cleaning old bits of DPM with it and sticking to the reveals. Like s*** to a blanket!

If I can Starrett 70mm in 6mm st/st plate pretty sure I could go bigger in mild... Over £200 for a 100mm dia Rotabroach cutter...

When I took our double bed apart and made it into a Super King size the standard, hinged door that already hit the bed became untenable. I created a false wall out of some 2"x2" and used SLIK sliding door gear from S'fix. Works fine. (Unfinished). Never got round to the Enterprise doors for the boy's room either nor the Tardis entrance into the playroom.....nor the train set that disappears into the ceiling

The fwd/rev on the Dewalt drill I have is the opposite way round to my Makita...

His first was a Mac Allister I think (B&Q own brand?) bought on offer. He now has a Dewalt cordless as he's a Dewalt nut.

Looks great, very envious. Nah, not too late for holes in that web. 100mm Starrett and some RTD / Trefolex. Or just gas some through. SE might not like..... Roger the dog.....isn't that an offence? Seriously, if I get another dog I'm nicking the name.

My mate's an apprenticed cabinet maker and a good one. The sort that sharpens his own chisels by hand on a stone and veneers things. When he bought a multi tool I thought he'd sold his soul to the Devil! However...he did a job for me where it really was the ONLY thing for the job. I borrowed it and am now a convert. Lost track of the times and variety of jobs where I've used it.

A bit of gap filling with some 50mm EPS. Only 200mm deep until it hits the first ties. A line of low expansion foam one side then popped it down the cavity and properly dosed the side between the EPS and outer leaf. That should fill the gap nicely. I'm going to infill atop the line of blocks with strong mortar levelled to the stud batten. I'll then trim the foam flush. Should give me a decent base to fix/stick my DPM all round the reveal. I WILL banish these draughts! BUT.... I knew I had to revisit the batten fixings under the window but where everything has dried out they're as loose as the video below shows: The concrete screws used to affix the battens haven't moved. The solution:

Just ordered the rad: http://www.britishbathroomcompany.co.uk/phoenix-zonta-600-x-1000-polished-ss-radiator-ra320 Will order the valves Nick said too.

+1 on the Lidl 230V one. Also got an early Draper but the non standard tool fitting means than really it just sits there doing nowt. If I went cordless it would be Makita to suit the drill & impact batteries.

I suggested we get Hotpoint out to sort the drum bearings out but the wife's said no, she's quite happy sitting on it.....