Onoff

Fair play. It's all Latin to me.

Just bought the right angled bit holder in Lidl (not the keyless right angled chuck). Really heavy duty tbh. Similar in style to the DeWalt one I mentioned above but made from a very, very tough plastic. I actually thought it was metal to start off with. Might not take as much torque as the DeWalt (which I've not managed to kill yet!) One advantage over the DeWalt is the bits stick out a tad further. £3.99. http://www.lidl.co.uk/en/our-offers-2491.htm?action=showDetail&id=41136 I only went in for some beer!

TT is generally over everyone's head tbh.....

There was you thinking "Farnell?"

OK, bring in your twin and earth cable to the enclosure. Line & neutral goes to L&N of the RCBO (either top or bottom) and the cpc (circuit protective conductor) aka "earth" wire goes to the earth bar top left. That's it. Ref the bus bar, it's two separate, "staggered", insulated bus bars: Obviously if you bring your circuits in to the bottom of the assembly the bus bars would go on top. Can supply details of the supplier of these if you discuss with your sparks and he contacts them.

No fly lead, T&E goes straight into the RCBO. All you have to do is connect the cpcs! (I do remember commenting as to the lack of cable markers! )

The 17th for what it's worth is a piece of pi$$. I did it with a severe migraine and got 98.3% and did it in 50 minutes out of the 2 hours allowed. My mate who stayed for the whole two hours thought I'd bottled it and walked out! (Saying that I know people who've sat it 3 or 4 times). If anyone wants a 17th simulator program pm me an email address and I'll send it to you. Please note it's not to AMD3 but gives a really good grounding (you would pass with it no problem if you got on OK with the simulator). I've also got loads of 17th test paper/questions and also stuff for 2391. Yes, I know its now 2394 & 5 but the principles are the same.

Go off grid? Seriously the UK isn't affected by lighting compared to some countries. More reading: http://www.electrium.co.uk/media/20150323160948_0_WylexSPD.pdf Tbh, one SPD might not be enough!

Some consider having the fridge/freezer on it's own RCBO. Idea being that something on the kitchen "ring" going when you're away doesn't ruin loads of food.

+1. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/WYWRMT100slash2.html Double the price if you want MK.

Ta. I'll have a look. Be a lot easier if they both got the clippers out and did a Sinead O'Connor!

Up front domestic SPDs, there's a thought! Bedtime reading: https://www.hager.co.uk/files/download/0/4540_1/0/Surge_Protection_Guide.pdf

Look out for poles where the pikeys have hacked off the intermediate earths on rural PME systems as far up as they can reach!

My wife & daughter shed hair like Cousin It so maybe I should avoid? I just like the idea they might protect against soil effluent coming back up into the shower if I dumped the shower waste into the soil via a boss.

Does a single room MHVR have to be mounted on a wall or can it be via a ceiling vent? Cheers

Bu**er!

The original piping in the loft is riddled with 15 and 22mm copper but most of the joints are done in big old, grey Hep2O. Even a bunch of spare fittings up there which I've made use of when temporarily rerouting. As I'm redoing I'm replacing with soldered as I go but tbh the Hep2O appears bomb proof. Lots of stuff I can't get to yet as you can see here, these pipes are off their clips btw, it's a long run and I can't lift back so the Hep2O stuff is under strain: If Hep2O is dodgy I'm in trouble!

Maybe taken a Part P course like EAL etc?

I'll gladly post you my home brew, Welsh designed rig to borrow. I'll change the 16mm fittings to 15mm of course:

One of our brethren will be along shortly But basically nothing wrong with STROMA, go for it. Quite a few se sparks are jumping away from the big boys. If still concerned check out NAPIT also if they still do their "Just 8" scheme. Allows you to sign off just 8 jobs p.a. Meant for college lecturers, retired sorts who want to keep their hand in. You still need all your docs, calibrated kit and 2391 (2394 & 5) too from memory. And you can't do more than 8 on it. Btw they DON'T advertise it, you have to phone up.

Cheated with the short pipe: Feeds to bath in and working. Still to insulate. Ends in compressions to allow connection to the "old" for now. Should look a lot tidier once I sort the wastes.

There's not a thing that doesn't need attention here that's for sure! The pipes were previously supported by blue baling string. That's the wc overflow coming vertically down. The smaller waste running under the dormer goes for about 8' unsupported so has a big bow in it. All under a glued chipboard floor. Going to gut the whole room, walls, floor and ceiling. Back on topic, these were the self sealing waste valves I mentioned above. Wondering if a good idea on a waste that goes into a soil pipe? http://www.screwfix.com/p/osma-waste-valve-white-x/1819K?kpid=KINASEKPID&cm_mmc=GoogleLocal-_-Datafeed-_-Heating and Plumbing&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product Listing Ads-_-Sales Tracking-_-sales tracking url&gclid=CI3U8ICo1tECFQgq0wodDwMJ9g

PLEASE! It's 2.5mm single core cpc! (Blue used elsewhere).

It must be SO much easier starting from scratch rather than having to work round / modify old badly done stuff! Like my upstairs basin & shower wastes, all sagging pipes and leaking compression fittings! I ran the grey soil from the existing wc pipe in the loft and I also fitted the AAV to do away with a horrible, badly flashed detail that came up through the roof. I went "point to point", diagonally across the new bathroom ceiling as I was worried about the fall being slight. Reading this thread I wonder about turning the soil to run under the existing white, shower wastes then dropping the wastes into the soil run. I'd then have to turn through 90 deg with the soil towards the bottom of the photo. Is there a rule for how many solvent bosses you can have and a distance to keep them apart? The downside I see to this is if your sink/shower trap dries out or the soil backs up. Both avoided if the wastes enter a drain "normally". Much neater though! I know you can get non return valves that fit the wastes but I'd worry about hair blockages.

Belt and braces, power in, tee off to the fitting, power onto the next: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/PRUBX03.html Cheaper than Pratley boxes but you have to add your own glands. https://www.connexbox.com/wagobox-capsule-ip68-adaptable-junction-box-grey.html WAGO is good stuff imho. I've even seen WAGO connectors used in Pratley boxes. Makes terminating SWA a doddle if you go that route: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/tcl/search?query=Blade+runner&Submit=Search