Onoff

You're in trouble! I knew a window cleaner and asked him how a particular job had gone one morning to which he replied "I did a Dionne!". Basically he "walked on by"! Sinbad is one who misses the corners (think portholes). A tumbler is a new bloke 'coz they're always falling off of ladders!

I've a box of Trojan XXL which I'd forgotten about.....

Cheers. I wanted something ideally could insert, expand and leave in there, maybe "popping" it later from the outside branch access. I don't do well with the smell of doodoo!

Bored with baths (working btw) & lofts and as I dug the Geberit wc frame out to have a look ref extraction possibilities I figured I might have a crack at doing something with it! So the instructions say there's 200mm leeway in height at the base where to fit it: The thing is my "wall" is in fact a stud wall effectively screwed to the ceiling joists and the wall but there's a nom 35mm gap between the sole plate and concrete floor: I can't see why I can't then mount the frame on top of the sole plate rather than hacking a 500mm section out and bolting the frame to the floor. I could pack under the sole plate with timber and bolt through to the concrete using resin to affix (it'll be clear of the UFH): Obviously I'll need to shorten the soil pipe! Temporarily I covered the end of the soil pipe with bubble wrap then a couple of duct taped Sainsburys bags but tbh there's still a whiff of eau de toilette coming through as it's connected outside to the stack: When I shorten it is there any temporary "bung" I can push in and inflate whilst I'm down on my knees working around it to stop the smell? Balloon, condom? Cheers

Not sure I've an extra hole anywhere that can be widened/enlarged: This "Y branch" thing is interesting, it's clipped to the blue frame and capped as far as I can tell, no idea what the point of it is though: It comes up inside the cistern above the water level: Maybe I should read the instructions!

My place couldn't be less insulated, it's dire. Part of me has put it off as I want to change the roof to gable ends. That being said I can't see the point of heating areas where you don't want it. My feeling is you want the "heat" in that pipe to get to its final destination without leeching heat en route.

What mix ratio did you use? Sounds maybe too weak. Then, if outside I'd have used a waterproofing additive.

On the subject of insulation what's the norm for insulating where the pipe clip is? Right or wrong I cut a neat square (with a small snap-off knife) out to go over the clip so everthing looks pretty seamless from the front.

Tip: If running plastic pipe have a beer.....

Every day's a learning day! So I could have a TMV on each of the hots to the bath & basin (1st & 3rd from left) for different temperatures.....I never knew!

That's lovely and neat. I assume that's your UVC? The three banks are what, hot, cold & mains? What are the two fittings in the horizontal runs and the big bkack thing? Is there a generic diagram shows this sort of set up? Cheers

Erm.....what's a manifold in this case? Anyone got a pic? Would it go with the UVC I'm planning to fit? I'm only familiar with UFH manifolds and even then not very!

Hep2O

It's a doddle. Ref the long pipe runs: From my (traditional) cylinder to the bath is about 20m (is that a long run?) 12m in 22mm (2m up from the cylinder in the loft, 8m across the top of the dormer then 2m down). All the 22mm is copper with old style, grey Hep2O fittings. From there it goes to 15mm to the bath - all new that I've just done. Last joint before the taps is new style Hep2O. Cold from the 25gal CWS tank follows pretty much the same route/ configuration save that tank is on top of the dormer. I was worried about the 15mm but @Nickfromwales said it'd be OK.....and it is! Excellent flow to the bath. The ONLY Hep2O fitting I ever had leak was when I removed and refitted one side of an old, grey 22mm straight coupler. Tbh I might have got the internals mixed up with a newer style grey fitting so probably operator error!

Were you in the Dionne Warwick or Sinbad camp?

This? http://www.toolandfix.com/bond-it-bdc007-foil-safe-solvent-cleaner-for-upvc-woodgrain-textured-frames-1l.html?utm_source=google_shopping&gclid=CJXmivT33dECFY8Q0wod71AIZg

Yep, gonna feed the en suite basin and wc off the mains: Makes yours look like a palace @daiking !

Just to add I can "copy" the regs / OSG / guide to the building regs all day long. These pearls of wisdom aren't mine. They're just engrained for the most part. Underpinning knowledge is vital which you will only get from a learning medium like an apprenticeship or college. Even then you need practice ideally under the supervision of a good mentor to get the manual dexterity to do a neat and tidy and above all safe job. This right down the basics; how to unroll a reel of armoured, how much wire to strip off the core, how to strip it and fold if necessary, natural lay of the cables, leaving enough slack for later cut backs / alterations...... FAR easier then plumbing though!

I tried the pipe cutter too, not good from memory. I will for a laugh try and fit a bit of hacksaw blade to a normal pipe cutter in place of the wheel. The Blade Runner uses junior hacksaw blades don't forget. So you have a thin but square blade that cuts a channel in the steel core effectively weakening it - more so than the V cut a pipe cutter does. Makes a lovely "zinging" noise too..... I'll take some close ups of mine with a decent camera. (Mind I've used a giant Record pipe cutter for scaffold tube before. Saved getting a Hot Works Permit).

Get a Bladerunner, it's a doddle: Basically a pipe cutter with 1/2" of junior hacksaw blade in place of the cutting wheel. I’ve seen things you people wouldn't believe. Attack ships on fire off the shoulder of Orion. I watched C-beams glitter in the dark near the Tannhauser gate. All those moments will be lost in time... like tears in rain...

Ooh! I didn't notice it had a light on it, might have swung it. Tbh I was in need of Guinness. Also bought a pomelo.....

The 12V one? I like the Parkside stuff tbh. Can't fault the multi tool I have. Their screwdriver bit sets are cheap, pretty comprehensive and good quality IMO. What is naff is their combined drill/countersink bits. Weirdest flute form I've ever seen.

In a nutshell, laymans terms if you will: For final circuits, the ones where you "plug things into", or have fused connection units etc: You can have: An (A1) ring circuit on a 30/32A overcurrent protective device, "opd" run in 2.5mm serving a floor area of 100 square metres max. An (A2) radial again off a 30/32A opd run in 4mm serving a floor area of 75 square metres max. An (A3) radial off a 20A opd run in 2.5mm serving a floor area of 50 square metres max. You need to try and ensure your loads are spread between the legs of the ring btw. All in the On Site Guide to the regs. In the actual regs there's even excellent, pretty pictures showing all these in the Appendices. Sorry, but I'm not about to go scanning pages from my books. Be careful with 4mm radials as some sockets have such small L/N/E terminals you'll struggle to get the wires in. Let's face it some are so dire you won't get 3 x 2.5mm in! And you can go "off piste". You can sometimes for example reutilise an old cooker connection point and come off of that with a ring! Colloquially known as a lolipop circuit. All perfectly legit if you can justify the design. But.....with everything "you" need to consider a multitude of things; the installation method for the cable, the ambient temperature, opd characteristics (Type B, C, D )...grouping list goes on and on. For instance if a cable is covered by thermal insulation for more than 500mm the current carrying capacity of that cable should, as a rule be HALVED. It could mean you need to go up a cable size. This issue often manifests when high current cables such as for showers get insulated over and they basically melt! It's a whole new lot of esoteric terms for most. (Just like when I couldn't figure what a "PIR" had to do with insulation! ) It's why people go to college etc for their respective trades. Of course, get it wrong and...it's the L word!

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/142228782611?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

Good to know. Do they do a similar m/f straight coupler out of interest? That would have put 3 soldered joints there instead of 2 though.....trying to keep the number of joints down as I'm never 100% confident of my soldering even though by ex BG fitter Dad had me doing it since little. Much happier bending tube the. Maybe I'm over thinking things! I wasn't sure whether to run the bath cold direct off the mains? Off the cws at the mo but that affects the upstairs en suite that shares it. Will fix that shortly as I want mains drinking in the en suite. Might as well run the en suite wc off mains too if doing that.