Onoff

So the missus likes this wc: http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Trento-Wall-Hung-Toilet-Pan-with-Soft-Close-Toilet-Seat/p/107328 The main reason is "because we can go and see it". I've yet to tell her that it's out of stock everywhere local anyway. Today, mind she's making perfectly good and frequent use of the existing old wc with this bug she's got. When it comes down to it I wish she'd just let me order one off the web! Anyway if we do go for it I note it has a 100mm dia waste: The Geberit fitting suits a 90mm dia waste seemingly: There is this thing in the kit of parts but seems it'll only take a 90mm pipe that'll only go in about 25mm. Is there a Geberit "100mm" part/adapter? Cheers

Ta, presumably that recess in the base of the sill is meant to go on a mortar bed? EDIT: I could easily use all my likes up on you today!

So do you screw the sill on, guessing not?

Oh no I wasn't going to just seems a silly design "feature" or is that oversight? The more I look the sillier the idea is of screwing the sill on. As I see it I would be penetrating the window frame for a start. Any hole would let water run down the screw thread and into the sill cavity. I don't really hold with the "mastic the screw threads" idea. At the moment water in the frame should exit via the front hole and down the slope of the sill. As I say I'm in the "cheaper" seats here. It's funny but I was brought up at a time when having "double glazing" was seen as a proper sign of affluence. My parents had aluminium at first which failed and now have replaced them with generic uPVC. It's only because of this site I realise all double glazing is NOT created equal!

What have I started? I personally like the idea of foam filling the sill. Plus I'll be doing something.....albeit without really getting anywhere! Saying that I guess the actual window frame isn't foam filled? Though I understand some are to achieve better U values. Don't forget I'm at the bottom end of all this, no 0.8 values for me. I don't think the low expansion stuff would distort the profile personally. If it does then hey ho I go and buy another bit. I was a bit worried than the resulting foam fill could be hygroscopic? Did even think I could neatly saw a length of ESP and slide that in. I like the idea if fitting the sill first so I'm only dealing with one piece. I might take from everyone; CT1 the sill and st/stwoodscrew it in then foam fill. I'll tell you the bit that bugs me most is the gap between sill and frame between those two anchor shaped tabs (first photo). I know that's where things drain but to me it seems to defeat the whole object and be a weak point in terms of insulation/design. Cheers for the advice. Not sure what I'm doing today tbh. Wife is sick and bad (both ends ). Went to my elderly parents last night used the land line (caked) the light switch (sticky) and must have picked something up! EDIT: How about screw the sill on packing with st/st penny washers to hold that cavity together more? I know 90% would have it in and fitted by now!

Good call. I've just taken the rolls and put them in the unheated conservatory. Mind you they were in the unheated kitchen and that's not much warmer! Frost this morning but rain out there at the mo plus I need to scrounge a couple of pallets to stand on as it's a mudbath.

You mean down this section: I was thinking to do so. The sill is only 600mm long. I could get the foam gun nozzle in virtually half way from each end. I'd mask the sill ends before doing so of course.

Got my small window made by a local company. Now I've only ever fitted two DG windows and from memory they were pre-glazed and I used tabs on the side. To long ago to remember tbh. Any tips? Sill How best to attach this? Options are mitre bond, Sika EBT, CT1 or some st/st wood screws up through the bottom. Or even a line of low expansion foam?Whatever, I think it needs a continuous "wet" seal to at least minimise draughts: End Caps Mitre bond? Fixing Got some generic M10x160 frame fixings. Good enough to save me buying any? 3 per side maybe? Window is nom 1000h x 600w. Compriband I've got some so seems rude not to use it. I've read you've got to be quick with it as it expands. My guess then is: - Old window out and hoover all round. - Assess where I can get a fixing (don't know what the wall construction is yet but think it's "solid"). -Trial fit window loose and gauge packs required -Drill 10mm holes in uPVC frame -Window back in and drill thru holes in frame into wall reveals -Window out, Compiband stuck on but cut where packs need to go? -Window back in, fixings in but not tightened fully -Packs in, tighten fixings -Glass in with packs all 4 sides -Leave Compriband to expand. -Foam fill/mortar gun outside Cheers

Uneven concrete for want of a better word: Build up: Taper off/void: When l laid the floor I had the stud walls in place "hanging" from the ceiling and I screwed screeding rails to them. Actually Unistrut and it worked a treat with a drag board between them: So between the face of the opposing studs the concrete is lovely and flat but under the sole plate, particularly this side, it's either built up too much or tapers off. My vague plan was to slip in a few wooden packers and fill any voids with expanding foam. Didn't foresee as an issue. The plan is to definitely use Fischer resin (big fan) anyway. Just worried whether there was enough "meat" for that. Just need to chip a bit of the concrete off. It will miss the UFH btw. I'll additionally (M10) bolt the frame to the side studs as there's suitable holes in the frame.

That Gower Porter and the IPA look good. Thinking I should have stuck with Plan A and affixed to the sole plate. I could have bolted through rather than screwed. Only thinking that as it dawned on me as I was taking the section out that the slab tapers off there a bit. Won't be much edge distance. I'm going to bolt the frame to the studs at the side too. Had a bit of a "back up" the other night. Down the man hole with a spade to break off a frozen mass of wet wipes and the brown stuff, rods too! The Sainsburys bag must have a pin hole in it - bit of a stain.

I could have sworn I just posted saying that was my exact plan.....must be the Hobgoblin clouding things!

We're using the bath now and when it empties is pretty much soundless and QUICK. I went with @Nickfromwales suggestion of going 50mm AND solvent weld. All under the slab now and forgotten about.

This with a solvent weld 50/40 reducer? http://www.drainageonline.co.uk/Marley-110mm-Push-Fit-Soil/110mm-Soil-Eccentric-Reducer-110-50mm-SRM402.htm

Short version: http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sewer-waste-soil-110-mm-Offset-Reducer-short-110-50-mm-Inlet-Push-Fit-Grey-4-/111927178494?hash=item1a0f6134fe%3Ag%3AJggAAOSwsB9WCR~K&_trkparms=pageci%3A15a80ae2-e599-11e6-bbe8-005056b68985%7Cparentrq%3Ae6c8c23e1590a2a4f382c808ffb51fb4%7Ciid%3A17

Actually it's a possibility but it might encroach on the wet room corner. To square the room off the stud in the corner where the soil exits is 95mm with minimal packing behind. Again it's level with the face of the soil. The studs increase in depth to I think 145mm at the left hand and with packs behind. In effect it's a stud wall screwed to ceiling and wall but not the floor. Does have a wall making a cupboard that provides extra support:

Don't think so, the 90mm minimum is from the face of the studwork which is the same line as the face of the frame / elbow. The frame can't come out any further than the face of the stud. Planning on just putting 12.5mm moisture resistant plasterboard on the face of the studs then tiles.

I assume you'll put a 110mm bend at the back of the wc? Is there a way you could put another branch at the back (instead of a bend), on it's side and feed into that with something like this? http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/262813822033

Get on the Aico website and they'll send you one of these. You have to register but it's no issue:

Is "weight of paper" good in this case? As in present a neatly labelled THICK file maybe with an index of all the bits they could ever want to see and they'll just think "he knows what he's doing obviously" and rubber stamp it rather than wading through it all?

Got all the bits out of the Geberit box today to familiarise myself with what's what never having fitted a wall mount wc before. 1) First problem: The instructions say the distance between the centre line of the soil pipe and front of the frame should be 90-120mm on the minimum position: In my case I have 55mm from the face of the stud work to the centre line of the soil pipe. The outside face of the soil is dead flush with the face of the studs: It's going to make it tricky to attach the black Geberit connector as the two pipes are offset: I'm guessing I need to either make the join with 15deg / 30deg bends and couplers or use one of these two. I seem to recall @Nickfromwales saying he had to use a flexible connector on something similar but maybe wasn't overly happy doing so? or ??? 2) Then the cold feed to the cistern, the instructions show this: But I've got no fitting that looks remotely like the bit they're wrapping the PTFE round in the above diagram. All I have is this braided hose that actually doesn't quite reach the hole in the cistern: I'm assuming I'm missing a fitting? 3) Lastly, pan height. I've measured the two working pans in the the house and from finished floor to top of porcelain is 390mm on one and 400mm on the other. I presume that before I fit this frame I actually need the wall hung wc? Cheers EDIT: I reckon it's this I'm short of: http://www.bathroomspareparts.co.uk/angle-stop-valve-for-geberit-sigma-and-kappa-concealed-cistern-12-cm-up320-and-15-cm-up200----240269001-28790-p.asp

Don't you mean CO alarm?

Scaffold poles concreted in as supports and Tubeclamp fittings: Very stable.

My missus went and bought some of that non slip Ronseal decking paint. I wasn't pleased as it costs a fortune. However it really does do what it says on the tin.

Handrail height would concern me as you step out and are standing on the "seat". You'd be that much higher than when standing on the deck. Plus the danger/effect would be exaggerated if the deck doesn't project far enough - as in you've only one way to fall and that's over the handrail rather than onto the deck. (Especially after a wee dram or two!) I'd have the deck level with taller supports and disguise the height with bushes or by building the ground up a bit. As for putting it together I've seen some good brackets and connection techniques on kids timber climbing frames. You could even have a climbing net up the front or a love seat down below!

Plastic is less wasteful in terms of heat radiated along the runs surely? Quieter too?