Onoff

Nudge, nudge.....

Is there any way to gauge when my washing soda based electrolyte is exhausted? Thinking test strips? I presume it's an alkaline medium? So if it is exhasted can I just add more soda crystals and give everything a stir?

I wonder if there's anything in the ESQCR 2002 (as it's statutory) you could use to expedite things? Are they high enough above the ground for example? http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2002/2665/contents/made Have the poles got signs on them etc. Anything however small is worth taking to them via email etc. Rather than be seen to fall foul of statute they might elect to do what you want.

Right at the back of the doc in the Condition, says about 38mm ID duct etc: Your-New-Electricity-Supply_UPDATE-DEC-2017 (1).pdf

If you try the cold tar idea I wonder if you could jig saw the required hump shape out of say a bit of 8"x2" to make a tamping board? Then lay the cold tar medium down and form into shape a line of the stuff. How about bonding a rubber cable protector down to what's there? This sort of thing: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CAFC83Y.html? Or https://dotty-deals.co.uk/product/rubber-floor-cable-wire-cover-tidy-protector-safety-trunking/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIoLKEzIXD2

@epsilonGreedy, what DNO you are under /what area of the country?

What about using a half round gutter and filling with SBR laced concrete maybe with a reinforcing rod up the middle? Paint it yellow when finished. Stick it down.

Ready made and CT1 the edges? https://www.pittmantraffic.co.uk/speed-ramp-complete-kit-50mm-economy.html Would probably need the heavier duty kit. The gulley / channel and just regularly sweep?

@Ryan, what software do you use to model? Can I model in AutoCAD and export in some way to a 3D printer?

Got it. Not seen before tbh.

@Hecateh, I can only sympathise. Due to bad pension choices I dread retirement and have to think something will happen to mitigate the shortfall. If not then what will be will be is how I look at it.

Some tweaking with the multitool continuing the make it up as I go along theme... The ticked timber has to stay as they're the pocket frame. The X can go / be modded: The HOT in I reckon will have to run horizontal, in from the left, under the pocket. Pity as I was hoping to keep HOT & COLD in close together. The gap in the ply where HOT in will come:

After a beer, some sitting staring and reference to the CAD I realised the shower controls need to sit further to the left or the finished aesthetics ref the tiles won't be right. Makes the HOT in bloody awkward!

Didn't even realise you have to level the things!

On a serious note if you're planning any electrical work this is very good with lots of practical advice: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/books/8430771/?cm_mmc=UK-PPC-DS3A-_-google-_-DSA_UK_EN_Office_Supplies-_-Books-_-DYNAMIC+SEARCH+ADS&matchtype=b&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIy6iZmuzB2gIVDbcbCh2vxAJQEAAYASAAEgJcFPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Things you might miss like socket heights above worktops, distances from hobs / sinks etc. A second hand copy is worth looking for on the Bay etc.

As it's my birthday coming up I was thinking of treating myself to a small 3D printer. I can 3D model in AutoCAD so figure that side of it can't be difficult. Can they really be so cheap? Seeing them at the £99 mark! I was hoping for something sub £200 like this maybe, was tempted but I know nothing about what's good and what's not: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CTC-Black-3D-Printer-Dual-Extruder-MK8-Factory-Direct-Lowest-Price-PLA/331733282128?hash=item4d3cd82d50:g:RgIAAOSwdGFYovd9 At a push maybe this: https://www.clasohlson.com/uk/FlashForge-Finder-3D-Printer/38-7720 Cheers

Satisfying? Sally James being cream pied on Tiswas!

I used to have a lot of stuff fabricated. You can powder coat over galvanised steel. As a pretty good but lesser option powder coat over zinc flame sprayed steel after first shot blasting to Swedish Standard SA2.5. To powder coat straight onto bare steel is madness imho. A lot of lads do it on their car suspension components, subframes etc. One crack or chip and water gets in and under the powder coat.

It's my birthday soon. I was debating taking a "me" day off to weld up the whacker plate!

Semicolon surley or capital "W" on without?

I'll set 'em up, you knock 'em down!

"I'd have knocked the place down and started again, people have built houses in the time it's taking you to do a bathroom!" I think it might have been ME said that...

My 110V mixer is a cast off I was given to see "if I could get it going". I bought the last six belts for that model from Belle, a new drive cog and built up the broken Shuko mains inlet with resin. That and MIG'd some patches over the drum. I've abandoned it under a tarp until I make a new stand for it. The current one has the consistency of a tin foil lace doily. To do the wet room corner I borrowed one with a home made stand, tip too far forward and it's coming off. Only being a big bloke allowed me to "get it back on" one time it started to go. I'm that stupid I worry I might try and fight one! The on/off switch is a lever you push down with a bit of bent fence wire to keep it on. I think this was previously the "push start" one until he replaced the cap. Turning on it'd just hum until you gave it a roll by hand. You could make it go in reverse! Unmodified mixers are dangerous, modified ones lethal.

I've been called a Kentish Man on occasion.....living west of the River Medway I think that's what they said.....