Onoff

I read it he was using a Trend jig at first. But no, home brew, top man! (Hastily edited )

Hypothetically, if I were to put the Febond Blue Grit on would it go on before the tape or after?

I've asked before but SWMBO won't let me make home videos...

Bugger! Meant to get the cream of tartar!

Ceiling first or wall first? Before that, tomorrow I'll do both with Febond Blue Grit. I'll make good the damaged area tonight with some tile adhesive. Just got one bit of death trap raised floor to board. Had to use some blocks at the front as I ran out of pipe off cuts. Made a nice cover for the bath out of some 30mm t&g chip with osb sides and lined with Antinox. Means I can stand on without it flexing. A washing up bowl to protect the taps:

You need to clean the wood first I think hence suggesting the teak kit which comprises a cleaner then sealer. Used on boat decks etc.

Near black I think?

Bedec Barn Paint to match the frame!

Isn't iroko a cheaper substitute for teak? Maybe this: https://www.force4.co.uk/wessex-teak-care-system-1ltr-pack.html? FFS don't use "teak oil". It's got nothing to do with the oil from teak and will damage the teak's own oils.

Looks cracking. Must have been great to have stood taking shots 8 & 9 and "feel" your home being built around you! The parallels with my own build are uncanny. That trench for the water pipe looks just like the one I had dug...

Isn't that true for all blokes?

It's burned into my "memory" forever...

I could tell a story involving a then girlfriend and after sports "massage" with the stuff that won't be forgotten in a hurry. But I won't!

Ralgex on the nads makes for a good all round dog/cat/wino deterrent...

Must be a thing with Kent girls...

What for the man cave nursery? Should at least have No.2 on the way by then! :)

The big one's a st/st one from Wickes. I've used it before and the BiL used it previous when he did some for me.

I've got what I've got

I might lay some to stop pva etc falling on the concrete and causing later adhesion issues with the floor tiles. Veering towards Febond Blue Grit now though! I'm v.likely going to have a crack myself. Rest assured I'll post up if it cocks up!

I've read more that say do it than not. To do seemingly with the suction rates of pb, lowering the take up of water in the mix by the dry board and allowing longer working times. To an experienced plasterer I wonder if this is less of an issue as they get the stuff on quicker and spend less time messing with it afterwards so it can just do it's thing and set. With moisture resistant pb though I'd veer towards pva being less necessary as theoretically it has lower suction rates to start off with given it's name. Guessing you get longer working time with it compared to normal board. On site, board I imagine is used pretty quick but might have been stored in unheated conditions so it's moisture content is higher to start with. And its more dust free as said above. I quite like this bloke: https://plasteringforbeginners.co.uk British Gypsum, the board makers say to use ThistleBond-it as a pre plastering application with this board: PDS-Gyproc-Moisture-Resistant.pdf Edit: Looking at the price of ThistleBond-it, it might be Febond Blue Grit gets used instead!

Joking aside they're some great numbers! Thought the other day how there's more and more seeming to join and those that do fitting in well.

Stilts you say? I'm figuring how to raise the floor!

Phew! Panic Over! Was in the "measuring" bag along with the squares, rules and short levels etc.

Cheers. Could be a lifesaver! Going to have a bloody good look first. Always the option to drill a hole (s) for the snake scope and have a look behind the mitre section.