Onoff

Isn't that true for all blokes?

It's burned into my "memory" forever...

I could tell a story involving a then girlfriend and after sports "massage" with the stuff that won't be forgotten in a hurry. But I won't!

Ralgex on the nads makes for a good all round dog/cat/wino deterrent...

Must be a thing with Kent girls...

What for the man cave nursery? Should at least have No.2 on the way by then! :)

The big one's a st/st one from Wickes. I've used it before and the BiL used it previous when he did some for me.

I've got what I've got

I might lay some to stop pva etc falling on the concrete and causing later adhesion issues with the floor tiles. Veering towards Febond Blue Grit now though! I'm v.likely going to have a crack myself. Rest assured I'll post up if it cocks up!

I've read more that say do it than not. To do seemingly with the suction rates of pb, lowering the take up of water in the mix by the dry board and allowing longer working times. To an experienced plasterer I wonder if this is less of an issue as they get the stuff on quicker and spend less time messing with it afterwards so it can just do it's thing and set. With moisture resistant pb though I'd veer towards pva being less necessary as theoretically it has lower suction rates to start off with given it's name. Guessing you get longer working time with it compared to normal board. On site, board I imagine is used pretty quick but might have been stored in unheated conditions so it's moisture content is higher to start with. And its more dust free as said above. I quite like this bloke: https://plasteringforbeginners.co.uk British Gypsum, the board makers say to use ThistleBond-it as a pre plastering application with this board: PDS-Gyproc-Moisture-Resistant.pdf Edit: Looking at the price of ThistleBond-it, it might be Febond Blue Grit gets used instead!

Joking aside they're some great numbers! Thought the other day how there's more and more seeming to join and those that do fitting in well.

Stilts you say? I'm figuring how to raise the floor!

Phew! Panic Over! Was in the "measuring" bag along with the squares, rules and short levels etc.

Cheers. Could be a lifesaver! Going to have a bloody good look first. Always the option to drill a hole (s) for the snake scope and have a look behind the mitre section.

Yarp!

B0LL0CKS! At around 4.45 in the video there's a stainless steel strip that goes over the drain threshold. I can't find it! I can't see that I've "boarded it in" the walls but...

The Geberit wall drain, it's one thing watching the CGI video! So the membrane is sort of rolled up tight. It's Sellotaped which you remove: It appears completely waterproof: Guessing I need to make damn sure there's no sharp edges here: I'll have to watch the video again! Seems the tile (mosaic shown as example) sits like this: There's a bit of very thin st/st sits between the membrane and tile at the threshold to the drain: I've also ordered the st/st front plate to cover/finish it at just over £70!

I'm going to put down some taped together Antinox / Proplex sheets to protect the concrete floor and board over the bath to the extent it can be stood on to reach the ceiling. I intend, as the plasterboards have been up for a good while to apply a weak pva mix just before plastering. I've generally used a pot and a brush before on walls but it's messy. 5:1 has always been my goto water/pva mix. I've tried it in plant sprayers or even kitchen cleaner spray bottles but they seem to soon gum up. I was thinking maybe a 10:1 mix in my back pack sprayer? Would be ideal to do the ceiling.

The wall at the bath end, on the right, will be tiled from the bath up. The low wall with the pocket will be tiled including the nom 4" shelf on top with a line of tiles / upstand over the damaged bit just above the shelf. Above that will be plastered & painted with a colour (so SWMBO can periodically change the bathroom theme ). The internal corner where painted wall on the left meets tiled wall on the right, does that need taping / reinforcing? Then the internal corners that are two pb walls that'll both be tiled, corner tape? And finally where pb meets Aqua Panel at an internal corner (lower right), tape or not? Lastly, whilst on a roll, the EXTERNAL corner above, it'll be tiled straight on the pb with a corner trim. Tape it or not? Cheers

I've bought the T'station scrim @PeterW said about. Couldn't resist trying it...I don't get much excitement in my life... Need to make good this damaged corner of one board at the join. Not sure if you fill it (with plaster) first then put the tape on or just whack plaster on this and hope it squidges through? This damaged bit will be tiled over anyway with an upstand. And picked up a couple of these:

Solder? It's a non starter: It'll end up like this: I found there were bad bits and REALLY bad bits. I bought the proper, best make, MDPE to iron adapters but it was just too far gone. No g'tee the bit you're looking at isn't the worst bit. If you "bury" that under footings etc you are asking for trouble. Sorry, I know it's a bitch of a problem. Mine was under a concrete path alongside the house that had to come up but that was on my land etc.

Don't pi$$ about, replace the pipe. I had exactly the same issue. Tried fixing one leak in the iron - that failed, replaced one bit in MDPE and couldn't get a decent joint to the remaining iron. Then another leak etc. Spent a small fortune on fittings too (you don't need the kebab ) :

Ivor Biggun:

Using a few odd spanners around the bathroom I wanted to keep them together before they go back in their respective leccy, plumbing bags etc. I took small comfort in upcycling this: